thank you all so much.... i have everything off of the truck except for the cab so i dont think i will have a problem clearing the truck. i hope it goes well..... no broken toes for me please!

I wondered the same thing when I took mine out. I'm going to put it back in the same way. If I had a lift to get the truck up in the air I would opt to put them in seperately but I'm going to try and put them in together. I think coming out together was easier than putting them in together is going to be. I still have the front end on my truck. I took out the radiator but the grill etc was too much to mess with. Just had to get it all up in the air high enough to clear. If you have the front off the truck it shouldn't be any problem at all.
Dave

I would not spend the money on a dropped axle,as it will never handle like a sub framed conversion,even if you replace or rebuild the spring eyes, but if you do use a dropped axle, you can take every other leaf out of the springs both front and rear to soften the ride, as long as you don't use truck for heavy hauling, and keep speeds under 100 MPH, because it will never handle no matter what you do, I know because I tried..sub frames have disc brakes,independent suspension,power steering box's,sway bars,side mounts for the motor,etc.--STRAIGHT AXLES SUCK and are dangerous at high speeds...AND YES I ONCE LOST A TIE ROD END DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD

This truck I'm working on is going to be for weekend fun, rod runs around town and just fun. I've had it up to 80 with no problem and really don't see the need in going any faster. I like to build a truck with a basic theme in mind for the truck. This one is a tubbed out old school feel with a bottle rocket engine and gears. I agree with the sub frame idea. I wanted to lower this truck without going that route and keep the straight axle. I actually like the original steering in this particular truck. Going to put the works on the 53 I drive everyday. The rear is where I want it already and rides pretty well for what it is. I may take out a leaf or two on the front end. Thanks for the input.
Dave

Bone stock these old trucks drive like a bowl of soup.The combination of front and rear sway bars with the traction bars ties it all together and eliminates the buck board bounce and sway.The control arm suspension provides a smoother ride but my strait axle suspension 58 handles better than my 97 astro van .I ordered a hellwig rear sway bar for the van because I drive the 58 all the time so I really notice how sloppy the suspension on the van is when I am forced to drive it on road trips to Vegas.In my opinion the strait axle is not a hazard if it is not worn out and sloppy at the shackles.The hazard is the old style tie rod ends that can come apart while driving.A 6000lb truck will never handle like a car no mater what suspension you put under it.Controlling how that weight is transfered around on the suspension is the most important thing when it comes to handling.

I guess that is part of the point I was making. One of the things that attracts me to these old trucks is that they are old trucks. I do like trucks with altered suspensions too, but my first love is the old straight axle. My 53 has the stock front and rear suspension and I drive it everyday. I have had it on the interstate a few times also. It drives like an old truck. Then I get in my 64 Impala 4 door hardtop with the power glide 327 and I float down the road like a big boat on a smooth lake. Variety is the spice of life. If I actually had to choose one over the other it would have to be my old trucks.
Dave

Strait axles worked on gassers for years and you don't see T buckets with independent front suspension.Tom Meyer's truck is nice with its camaro suspension and I love the 4 link on Kim's truck but that isn't what I want for my work truck. I have to go off road to a job site once in a while.I like knowing I have 14 inches of ground clearance on my headers and when I pull my trailer it doesn't push my truck around at all.

Dave or anyone else that would like to contact me.My sister set up a instant messenger for me to use on her computer at "terrymcberty@hotmail.com Hope to here from you soon.

I will still stick to my belief that a straight axle is a dangerous suspension component as they are not forgiving in an emergency maneuver,especially in a vehicle that pushes as much air as an old truck...come on, a sub frame conversion is not that hard to do, just MEASURE 4 TIMES AND CUT ONCE and you will never be sorry that you did not waste your time on 100 year old technology ...and yes you do see many rods with independent suspension..my CAMEO had a dropped axle, so I know where I am coming from and at 120 + miles per hour it was scary to say the least,or if it went sideways on a 2 nd. gear shift, hope for the best, as it is hard to recover from..sorry I am so opinionated, but i am old..been there/done that..

I have another question.... i cant find a web site for casting numbers on a transmission. the casting number is 591953. anyone know what this might be?

I am not up to date on casting #s sorry I am no help at all in that department.

handsomeharv don't apologize.Being opinionated is a good thing.We are here to share opinions

If we all liked the same thing we'd surely run out of em.
Dave

Sorry but I'm no help on the casting numbers

Streamline55 you might find something here to help with your trans code.
http://chevy.tocmp.com/chevyresources.htm
Good luck.
Kim

DD.... did you have any trouble with the power booster conflicting with the transmission mount? There is no way this power unit is going in the stock location without doing something with this mount. Looks like I'll need to cut a larger access hole in the floor to get to the master cylinder resevoir. I'm going to give CPP a call in the morning. I bet I have to use a different trans mount to make this bolt in install work. Got all my wiring out tonight and gutting the interior. Got the old MC out and also took out the clutch pedal. It had been left in the truck under the mat.
Dave