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  #2206 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2011, 01:02 AM
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Newbie

Hello everyone,
I am a newbie here and have been reading a lot of this forum looking for help. I recently purchased my first project truck. 1955 Chevy 3100 (2nd series). I have pretty much stripped everything off the frame except the cab. Im going to put a Mustang ll IFS with disc brakes on it. I am planning on putting a Chevy 350 motor in it. Anyone here have advice on what transmission I should use. Also in my research I found this stock rearend is 62" in length. I have seen the lists that show rearend lengths but it only goes up to about 1972 model vehicles. Will anything more recent fit? I would like to put wider tires on the rear but dont want to have to tub the bed. Would a 60" work? Thanks in advance for any help. If any of this dosent seem to make sense I apologize, Im new to theis whole scene and am learning as I go. Thanks guys.
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  #2207 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2011, 06:17 AM
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Welcome Firefighter128,

Take a look at my project on pages 119 & 120 it might give you some ideas.

Check out http://www.nolimit.net for your suspension their Wide Ride front end and Fat Bar rear suspension are designed for our trucks and real handling.

The Mustang II stuff is to lite and to narrow for our trucks, same goes for the other guys 4 bar systems.

As for the trans how about a 4L60.

Rear end, I've got a Ford 9" with a 60" width that I'll be running with 15x8" wheels and 4" backspacing that should just clear the bedsides.

Have fun with your build.

Glen G&R's57GMC
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  #2208 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2011, 08:58 AM
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Welcome Firfighter! We have the same taste in trucks!! I put a Mustang II kit in mine (TCI), it went in SUPER easy. Tip: triple-check the loction of the crossmember before welding it in, to make sure the wheels are centered in the wheel wells.

I have a mild SBC 350 in mine, and stuck with the stock 3-speed manual trans, converted to floor-sift. I might swap it out for a 4-speed in the future though, to reduce the rpms on the highway. Remember: real hot rods have 3 pedals.

For a rear end, I went with a S10 rear (about 54" hub-to-hub), I run 15x10 rear rims and fat rubber, I tubbed the bed for clearance. Not what you want to do, I know, so you'll need a wider rear axle. Start with your wheel backspacing and calculate what you'll need to avoid the tubbing.

Anywho, welcome aboard, and post pics of the progress on your truck!!
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Old 01-08-2011, 11:39 AM
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Wow those were quick responses. Thank you guys. I will probably be using this forum for a lot of tips and advice. Id love to be able to buy all new components all at once and finish my truck but $$$ dosent allow that haha. So I have to piece stuff together as I can. G&R I have been told by others that the Mustang II kit works well with our trucks. Have you had any bad experiences with the kit that I should know about?
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  #2210 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2011, 12:17 PM
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No.

Like I said before the NoLimit kit is in double shear (supports the ends of the pivot shaft on the lower control arms.

The other Mustang II kits I've seen do not support the ends they rely on the bolt only as a pivot for the lower control arm and some kits have a very narrow lower control arm. This is a real compromise to strength resulting in bent bolts.

The original Mustang II had a strut rod/control arm setup, the strut rod acted as a fore aft member of the lower control arm. It was strong cheep and easy for Ford to install on the assembly line but it had its compromises.
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  #2211 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2011, 06:53 PM
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These pic's should help

1. Left suspension
2. the lower control arm installed
3. This is the NoLimit Wide ride front lower control arm mount
4. Front susspension
5. Rear NoLimit Fat Bar setup

In #'s 2 & 3 the chassis is upside down
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Last edited by G&R's57GMC; 01-08-2011 at 06:58 PM.
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  #2212 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2011, 10:51 AM
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firefighter

the mustII kit does work very well on our trucks.
i have a fatman mustII kit on my 58 that works very well
there are thousands of mustII frontends on vintage trucks.
g&r is a little over-zealous about his preferences...

my truk has an 86 trans am rearend in it.
it came with disc brakes, a 3.26 posi gear and is 62'' wide
the widest tire with out tubbing is 8'',
i mini-tubbed my bed to get 9 tires under it
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  #2213 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2011, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogre
firefighter

the mustII kit does work very well on our trucks.
i have a fatman mustII kit on my 58 that works very well
there are thousands of mustII frontends on vintage trucks.
------------------------------------------------------------
g&r is a little over-zealous about his preferences...
------------------------------------------------------------
my truk has an 86 trans am rearend in it.
it came with disc brakes, a 3.26 posi gear and is 62'' wide
the widest tire with out tubbing is 8'',
i mini-tubbed my bed to get 9 tires under it

The "over-zealous" part, not so much.

Just saying go to their web sites TCI, Fat Mans & No Limit and comparison shop it will open your eyes on what you get for your $$
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  #2214 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2011, 04:33 PM
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You know, all this talk about which front end to use is just opinions. They all do the job we want for our trucks. Its gonna be up to you to decide what you do with you truck to determine what you use. Like me for instance, my plans for my truck is to just go to the local cruise ins and for the occasional drive on the weekend, so im not gonna spend $3-4 thousand dollars on the top notch version. Even with that being said, you can always buy the front end in peices to give you the correct ride for want your truck to do.
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  #2215 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2011, 09:24 PM
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I figured choice of IFS was all personal preference. Once the truck is done I plan on only going to local cruise nights...the occasional local show...and maybe the 45 minute drive to Mississippi for Cruisin the Coast. As my screen name suggests, I'm a 28 year old Firefighter and unfortunately I dont get paid boat loads of money haha so I'm doing things as I get the extra cash. Ive always wanted to build a custom truck so figured go for it. I have absolutely fell in love with this hobby. Even if its sanding away at one body section knocking of rust and smoothing it out and then stepping back and seeing how good it looks. I found IFS kits for around $1800 and think it will work for what I need. Just wasent sure if there was a specific brand I should stay away from.

Now my next question for you guys...

I found this part as I was removing the front fenders (pictures attatched). It looks as though it was a permanent part of the body that rusted out. It was on the cab and is where the top of the fender bolts to the cab (Sorry if I'm not explaining it right). There was one on the passenger side and none on the driver side. Does anyone have any idea what it may be called or where I can find replacements? Ive looked in my LMC magazine and can not find a similar part since both sides obviously need to replaced.

Once again, I can not thank you guys enough for taking the time to answer my questions and help me out. I hope Im not being a pain in the butt!
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  #2216 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2011, 09:39 PM
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Those are captured nuts. They are welded to the cowl where you described. they are for the fender bolt.

So you'll need to weld them back on.

Have fun with your project

Ask all the questions you want.
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  #2217 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2011, 04:18 PM
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The silence on this post lately is killing me. Címon, somebody do something. Unfortunately with the holidays I havenít had much time lately, and the month of January has been hectic as well, Iíve been working out of town quite a bit. I have driven the 57 on the weekends though, so thatís been good.
In December I was able to sneak off to a local car cruise in Riverside while my wife shopped. Itís always funny to me what some people say at cruises. This guy came up and immediately launched into how much more my truck would be worth if I painted it. That it looked cool the way it was, BUT, it would be even better painted, etc, etc. I politely listened, said ďI kinda like it the way it isĒ. He went on and on about how I needed to paint it. Finally he moved on to advise someone else.
Tim
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  #2218 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2011, 04:47 PM
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It aint bare metal , so it must be already be painted. I get that all the time with my pickup. When you going to paint it ????????? It is painted flat Buckskin Suede ,low maintenance.
The weather is a little better here,the sun is coming out in the afternoon so I think i'll start working on my backyard cab again soon.
Gene
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  #2219 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2011, 07:29 PM
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been cold

Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadetreeTim
The silence on this post lately is killing me. Címon, somebody do something. ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////That it looked cool the way it was, BUT, it would be even better painted, etc, etc. I politely listened, said ďI kinda like it the way it isĒ. He went on and on about how I needed to paint it. Finally he moved on to advise someone else.
Tim
Hey Tim,
Sounds like you weren't shocked or saddened, when he went off to distribute unsolicited advice elsewhere..

I think the really cold weather has just killed it for a lot of us. It seems so long to spring when I start up my 57 truck project. And I have to build a structure just for it............More stuff than buildings...
It's going to be an oversize paint booth where the truck is built from ground up, then painted.... I'll probably spend 5 weeks building it and getting it insulated and well lit. It may still be unfinished when winter 12 gets me.
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  #2220 (permalink)  
Old 01-17-2011, 06:13 AM
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Silence

Maybe you California boys (I was one myself - born and raised in the Bay Area_ enjoy weather good enough to get yours out, but in the mid-west most of us as on hold for weather.

I tried to warm my garage up recently and it was just too cold with temps down into the teens. It takes a LOT of cash to heat a garage up in that kind of weather.

Besides, the cold and shorter days almost make me want to hibernate.

I am in the middle of a frame-off frame swap on my 58 1 ton Dually. I have the 72 frame almost ready to go into the garage for final clean-up and POR-15.

The 58 is most of the way stripped down now and I need to get the cab off and drive train pulled. The 348 is leaking and I think it's out of a freeze plug so I may be in for an engine rebuild.
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