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  #2311 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2011, 04:45 PM
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Oregonite

Hey Guys, Greg here Just learned about the 55-59 Chevy truck spot! I have a '58 Fleetside SB I have owned it since '79. I installed a Volare front clip and really like the way it drives. The 3:73 geared rearend is out of a '70 Camaro. The tilt column is out of a '70 Firebird and I put a Mustang II power brake setup on the framerail and a stainless slidedown battery tray on the framerail also. So it really cleaned up the firewall.

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  #2312 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2011, 09:00 PM
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Hey Guys, Greg here. Just learned about the 55-59 Chevy truck spot! I have a '58 Fleetside SB I have owned it since '79. I installed a Volare front clip and really like the way it drives. The 3:73 geared rearend is out of a '70 Camaro. The tilt column is out of a '70 Firebird and I put a Mustang II power brake setup on the framerail and a stainless slidedown battery tray on the framerail also. So it really cleaned up the firewall. The engine is a small journal .30 over 327 with a M21 Muncie 4-speed.
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  #2313 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2011, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oregonite
Hey Guys, Greg here. Just learned about the 55-59 Chevy truck spot! I have a '58 Fleetside SB I have owned it since '79. I installed a Volare front clip and really like the way it drives. The 3:73 geared rearend is out of a '70 Camaro. The tilt column is out of a '70 Firebird and I put a Mustang II power brake setup on the framerail and a stainless slidedown battery tray on the framerail also. So it really cleaned up the firewall. The engine is a small journal .30 over 327 with a M21 Muncie 4-speed.

Welcome, looks like you've got a nice truck there for sure. I really like the stance.
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  #2314 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2011, 01:06 PM
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58 chev apache

Stiill figuring out this site. and this is my first build cant seem to find out how to post a thread or whatever.
but have been reading posts. got a 58 apache with a LT1 bore,bal, blueprinted. but the dude that installed the engine after it was dyno'd hooked something up either wrong or not at all. The wire from the battery Negative just goes to the firewall. so i found out the battery has a huge draw. the engine. if I dont disconnect the battery it will go dead in a few hours engine off. help anybody??? the dude that installed the engine..... well installled a "universal" kit. 12v system 1/2 the circuts go no where. and the others he hooked up wrong. the heater allways runs. I lll post pictures as soon as I can. sweet ride not perfect yet..first build. l still need input on rear end. 10 bolt or 12 bolt chevy better? 3.73 or 3.56 gears. its got a turbo 350 with a tranny drain plug. wild. but I need a quick good answer. so the battery to the frame with a 00 or 01 wire and another to the frame to the engine. does anyone think thats right? I did the test light ground thingy looking for what was the short. low and behold the intake is "hot " so just poor ground. hate to see a 427 hp stock rearended chevy be put down for a simple issue. imput is greatly appreciated
M.
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  #2315 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2011, 02:28 PM
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I had a battery draining problem a few years back and my electric temp gauge was the culprit. I replaced it with a mechanical gauge and it fixed the problem. Another thing to check out is making sure your ignition switch is hooked up right. As for the ground, I have mine going to the frame. But I replaced all my wiring with a universal Painless Wiring kit. A 10-bolt rearend out of an early 70's Camaro works just fine if your not going to drag race it. A lot of those had 3:42 gears in them!
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  #2316 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2011, 02:50 PM
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58 chevy

Thanks for the imput. So I need a 01 ga. Wire from the neg. Battery terminal to the frame. Right now it's to the firewall. It looks like a a 10 ga. Wire pretty flimsy. Yeah, the kit is great but the guy that installed it. Well I don't think he could read. Heater switch, messed up, dome light not hooked up at all.
Can I pick your brain. The speedo is off someplace someone saidi can get an adapter for the speedo which is original. I don't think I reads right past 45mph. Thanks.
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  #2317 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2011, 03:29 PM
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Hey zoer88, Just go to your local parts store and buy a couple of braided ground straps and mount one on the frame and cab, just to cover all bases. And for the speedo, get next to a cute gal on the freeway and motion how fast shes going and check your tach. I have 3:73's with 275-60's and 3 grand is about 60 mph. Or you can change the trannys nylon gear there are white, green and red ones and maybe more. If you have an automatic, different torque converters can affect your rpm's also. Good Luck!
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  #2318 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2011, 07:08 PM
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58 chevy

Thanks again. Really. I looked at my 96 chevy and that is what it had. But ... Guess I don't want any suprises. So. Battery to frame and frame to firewall. And safe to disconnect the one from the battery to the firewall all together. Wish I had a tach too. Stock instr. Cluster. Have to add a overflow fir the stock radiator. But thanks. And will figure out to how post pictures.
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  #2319 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2011, 08:42 PM
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I wired from battery to block, block to frame, frame to body. The highest amperage draw is your starter. It needs the best ground. I used the motor mount to block bolt for my attachment. Pick up a pre-made battery ground wire around 18" long at your local parts store. The ground wire can route down next to your hot wire as it heads to the starter. Get a short pre-made ground, same gauge as the battery ground cable, and run from the same motor mount bolt to the frame. Then you can get a braided ground to jump from the frame to the cab just like the factory does. Clean, simple, and most importantly, well grounded.

As for your wiring, it sounds like the PO was a moron based on what you've described. You may spend less time disconnecting everything and starting over than you would spend trying to find his mistakes. And then you would know it was correct. There are only about 40 wires total in one of these old trucks, assuming you have a stereo. Just reconnect one wire at a time and it is very easy.

Tim
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  #2320 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2011, 09:12 PM
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58 chev

Thanks a ton. Just need somewhat of a warmer day to venture to the garage. Because soon as I get started I'll want to get it all done and tear around. Thanks it's well worth thinking about getting a new harness. Yep. The engine builder felt compelled to " show his talent" sure did. What an idiot. Along with the body man. I got a cat hair in my clear coat. And painted the headlight rings, that were chrome. But billed me for a new stereo. Doors rub and I will never be done. But isn't that what a project truck is supose to be. Not a 27,000 wiring issue. So, great deal of thanks to you all for setting me that much closer to at least not having a dead battery after a cruise. Can I hook up a tach even though I got a stock dash and instrements? Like a little ine under the dash? Perhaps a cluster? What do you suggest?
Mark
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  #2321 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2011, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cal1320
Question for those who have changed to an F body (3rd gen) rear axle.
Cal
cal
i have an 86 trans am rearend in my 58 3100.
the 3.27 with my 700r4 trans makes for a nice cruiser.
i bought it for the width, posi, gear and disc brakes.

installation was simple enough, cut everything off and weld on spring pads.
i recommend that you plug the diff vent, drill & tap a couple inches towards the diff.
i do not have a parking brake figured out and may not do it.
if you flip it on top of the springs it will hit the bed wood a bit on big bumps.
i used the trans am sway bar, heated the ends and bent them out just a bit.
you will need a bit more c-notch than i have, i hit the frame often.

i used the stock 58 shock mounts with monroe-matic 33086 shocks.
i only bought spring pads and u-bolts from a trailer supply.
my $29 flip kit...

i have a hitch but have not towed with it yet.
i can't tell you of durability as i only have 1000 miles on my build.

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  #2322 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2011, 10:35 AM
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oregonite and zoer; welcome to this thread.
post some picks of your trucks... now...

zoer, you may be better of starting over with your harness so you know what you have and where everything goes.
the original ground cable was only 6'' long from the batt to the firewall.
we know better now, batt to frame to motor to body.
i use the same frame stud to run to all.
my batt is behind the pass seat, not the easiest spot to get to but it cleans up the firewall.
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  #2323 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2011, 02:19 PM
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58 Apache battery

On my apache the battery is way up by the firewall inthe right side. I think I will go with the big wire cable rom the post to the frame and use braided 1 1/2 2 ga. From the frame to the firewall and again to the block. Sound right?
What do you think about exhaust? I got a pair of mufflers of all things that the engine builder put on my hooker headers. I should be able to cut them off(welded on) and put pair of glass packs. Or should I run straight pipes and put tips on? I want a crisp throaty sound. Thankyou. You all are the best. These questions have been bothering me for at least a year now. Thankyou.
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  #2324 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2011, 01:56 PM
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Oregonite

Here are a few pictures. Excuse the quality because they are scanned
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  #2325 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2011, 02:02 PM
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Ogre, How did you get your last picture that size? Nice job on the frame!
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