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  #226 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2007, 05:37 PM
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Streemline55 I got my cross member from Harmon they were cheaper than anyone else.just order on line at their web site.I don't have their catalog with me to give you their site address so you'll have to use a search engine to find it.

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  #227 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2007, 05:49 PM
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hey dd, i searched for the crossmember and i didnt find anything execpt for crotchrocket parts. i searched for harmon crossmember. what else might they sell?
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  #228 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2007, 06:27 PM
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www.harmons.com I just forgot to put on the "s"

Last edited by DOUBLEDICK; 01-07-2007 at 06:33 PM.
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  #229 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2007, 06:57 PM
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I'm going to call CPP and see what they say about adding dropped leaf springs in conjunction with the drop axle. I think I'm going to go ahead and change out the springs regardless. Here is the proximity of the MC to the exhaust. It may be fine, not sure. I'll have to wait until I have everything hooked back up. Man.... this thing is gutted. No wires, no brake lines, no motor, no trans, no axle.... I hope I can remember how to put it all back together. Next in line is to get the holes in the firewall filled and the doghouse painted. I ordered one of the hole punchers from harbor freight. Gonna hold my plug in place with a magnet on the backside long enough to tack it and then finish it up. I'm developing a strange bond with this truck.
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  #230 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2007, 07:33 PM
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That pipe is close. A wrap around heat shied may work that stuff is cheap and that is pretty far back from the head so allot of the heat has dissipated by time it gets that far back. The boosters in these new cars sit pretty close the exhaust manifold so as long as it isn't touching it should be OK.It wouldn't hurt to ask CCP.Just send them that picture

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  #231 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2007, 08:08 PM
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hey dd, thanks for the site. i hope that will be what i need, i want to do a manual tranny... but then again i can always make mounts for it. once again thank you so much. Mike
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  #232 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2007, 08:15 PM
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I bought a 58 a few years ago but its still sitting in my driveway waiting for someone i guess . me to get her started.......... a few more years and she could be converted into a flower planter i s'pose....


Pup
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  #233 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2007, 08:22 PM
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Hey Luv, if you ever go to turn that into a flower planter, call me first ok???
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  #234 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2007, 09:17 PM
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Me second.
DD... did you make your own brake lines when you converted your system?
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  #235 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2007, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOUBLEDICK
I used a universal cross member that bolts to the bottom of the frame but installed it backward to allow room for the booster and drilled it for the 700r4 mount.Dave on page 10 post 143 has a picture that shows my exhaust about 5 inches away from my booster with no problems.If yours is much closer I would wrap the pipe with a heat shield just to be safe.In that same picture you can see my cross member and the spacer block I made the put the transmission at the right hight.Don't forget I raised my motor and moved it forward to center it on the radiator and make room for that 700r4 trans.Big blocks need more room.
I put a 16ga. shield below my booster/master/lines to protect it from the exhaust and other road grime. It's removable in case I need to get at it.
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  #236 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2007, 10:42 PM
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[QUOTE=gator412]Ok guys I started the tear down of the truck to get the cab off so I can paint the frame and do any repairs the cab might need. I believe the cab will need repairs based on how bad the fenders were. So this is probably no big deal to most of you but this is the first time I will have taken a truck down to the frame.

My body work class starts in a few weeks so I have to get the cab off so I can bring it to school to work on it.

I am getting a lot of ideas from this thread and all the tri five truck owners out there. So who knows what the truck will look like when it is done. I need to finish it in about a year an a half so my oldest daughter can drive it to school in her senior year. She thinks the truck is cool! My youngest daughter name the truck "cheeks" when she was about 5. She walked out to the truck and put her hand on the back cab about where the gas filler is and said"Daddy your truck has cheeks." So the name has stuck. But I am rambling now. Any way check out the pic and there are a few more in my journal and let me know what you think.



Gator, when I pulled my cab off I set it on a dolly I made with 1" sq. tube and 4 small wheels the size of wheelbarrow wheels. I had it set up so I could tilt it forward or backward to work on the cab. I could send a pic if you like. When I was plugging holes on the firewall with the welder I used a magnetic welding ground cable clamp that had a brass center so the weld wouldn't stick.
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  #237 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2007, 10:29 AM
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Dave.Yes I used a cheapo tubing bender and new lines from NAPA.I ran one up the frame to the left front and used 2 lines with a fitting to hook them together.I ran it across at the stock cross member then down the frame to the right front.You can see the brake line running across the cross member in that first picture on post 143.I just used a tape measure to figure out how long of lines to buy.
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  #238 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2007, 09:33 PM
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I bought a flairing tool but I haven't had much luck with it. Tried a few flares and can't seem to get it to work right. Must be a trick to it. I was going to buy a roll of tubing and the ends and make my own lines. Probably end up doing what you did. My instructions show to run seperate lines to the front end. Not sure why. Decided to put new springs under the front end. Having some made up that are a one inch drop. That gives me 4 inches all together. Now I need to figure out what shock I need to put on it. Not sure how to figure that out and get the right one.
Dave
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  #239 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2007, 11:18 PM
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If you are dropping a full 4 inches you should be able to pull the stock shock open and subtract 4 inches from that then collapse the shock completely and subtract 4 inches from that.I would think that would give you the proper travel.You should be able to ask any shop that does suspension work to find out for sure.
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  #240 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2007, 11:35 PM
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Dave you have to use a double flare on brake lines.I used one for the rear brake line.With steel line you need a quality double flaring tool to do it right.I borrowed one from a friend who runs a shop.Just takes a little practice
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