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  #2386 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2011, 05:20 PM
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shaved cowl vent

oregonite & dsraven
unless you have the deluxe heater, there is no fresh air to the heater. my vintage air unit has no connection to it either.
once you seal up the cowl vent and cut out the vent doors, you can put some awesome kick speakers in there too.





number 1 reason for shaving the cowl vent:
water in the cowl vent is why our truck need hinge pocket repair, front cab corner repair and why our floors are rusted out. water, leaves and pine needles get in there and create a mess. this slime rusts out all three panels in the cowl.

i made my own panel out of the cowl vent. i carefully hammered the semi-louvers flat; not enough to change the shape of the vent panel its self. my cab was sand blasted, so i sprayed some bed liner in there for rust prevention. then smuck a layer of fiber hair filler on both sides, then i welded it in the cowl and finished it with regular filler. run a bead of seam sealer on the flange that goes under the windshield rubber before welding it in.


number 2 reason for shaving the cowl vent:
it looks freaking awesome...
it's one of those mods that you have to know what your looking at to see it.

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  #2387 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2011, 08:44 PM
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I just smooth mine. I just remove the vents I wanted it removable.


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  #2388 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2011, 09:37 PM
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I have a gmc and it must have the custom heater because the heater gets fresh air from the vents. the cab is still all rusted out though, lol. that looks pretty cool with the filled in vents and the shaved firewall seam. I am thinking of replacing my entire firewall with 16 ga because i will have to change the bump for the engine anyway. I'll probably carry it down onto the floor because it looks like a fred flintsone mobile right now, all holes.
one day i will figure out how to post pics in a build thread, I'm a little computer illiterate.
dsraven
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  #2389 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2011, 11:37 PM
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Solid Cowl

mkabwe, I like your idea for your cowl setup! You still have access if you need to get in there and you can always go back to the original look. Did you put a car dash in?
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  #2390 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2011, 11:54 PM
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Smooth Firewall

dsraven, Why go through all that work covering your whole firewall when you just have to cut some little discs out the size of each hole and weld them in. And you can just run an MSD or Mallory Unilite distributor so you wont have to change your "Bump"
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  #2391 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2011, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oregonite
mkabwe, I like your idea for your cowl setup! You still have access if you need to get in there and you can always go back to the original look. Did you put a car dash in?
Thank you very much and yes I do all my own work. You are welcome to go here to check out the truck along with some other things http://www.flickr.com/photos/bam55/
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  #2392 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2011, 08:25 AM
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oregonite,
I have a pretty rough firewall and floor, so I will have a lot of holes to weld up as well as rebuild the area around the hinges that is badly cracked. I just thought it would be easier to start over. I aminstalling a 5.3 ls engine when it comes time, so there won't be a distributor to worry about. there are fuel injection rail interfernece issues though.
dsraven
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  #2393 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2011, 03:48 PM
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can't be any worse than this...

before


after


notice in the lower left corner of the before picture, cab corner rusted out from cowl vent.

also in the before picture: you can see the heat marks on the firewall seam
where i welded it from the inside under the dash.
then i cut 6'' pieces out and welded it all together, 3 pieces: cowl, inner cowl and firewall

if you have rust through above the seam, that is from water & rust in the cowl vent.
chances are your rusty floor is from the cowl vent too...
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  #2394 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2011, 04:32 PM
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I think I will do the removeable vent cover thing like mkabwe, and the shaved seam like ogre. i will wait and see what I need to replace on the firewall once I get there. I am working one armed at the moment because of shoulder surgery, so nothing is getting done till the end of summer probably. I have to finish the frame first anyway. I need to fab up some motor mounts, crossmembers for the trans and cab mount area, then a four link rear suspension set up etc etc. lots to worry about before the bodywork starts. I have to finish mock up of whwre the engine sits first off, so i can fab the motor mounts and the trans crossmember and so on and so on.....
dsraven
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  #2395 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2011, 06:54 PM
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Engine position

dsraven, Whatever you do, try to get the engine back as far as possible. these trucks are already nose heavy. You want as much lift in the front-end as you can get under acceleration. If you are running an automatic you can put the shifter anywhere. I have a Muncie 4-speed in mine.
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  #2396 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2011, 10:37 PM
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Riverside Show and Go

This weekend there was a Car Cruise in Riverside. They closed a few streets in the downtown area and allowed the first 1000 vehicles to register. It ran Friday through this Sunday. We probably won't be going back tomorrow though. Went for 4 hours Friday night and about 10 hours today. Got a nice sunburn and saw a lot of cars. It was a lot of fun and the truck ran perfectly, idling around the cruise route.
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  #2397 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2011, 09:25 AM
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shadetree
i'm still waiting for the sun to shine.
mid 50's most of the time.

lots of trucks there or just in your pics?
that big boy thing is a little creepy
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  #2398 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2011, 09:54 AM
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ogre,
that is one reason I want to bump in the hump in the firewall, or replace that section. I want to get the engine as far back and as low as possible. right now in mock up stage, the fuel injection rail is about 1/4" away from the firewall on the drivers side.
dsraven
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  #2399 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2011, 12:26 PM
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Heres what I did not my firewall. I know its not for everyone but I like it.

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  #2400 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2011, 09:24 PM
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Trans cooler help

I'm installing a B&M trans cooler with a fan on my 57. Need some mounting location ideas. The normal areas in front of and behind the radiator are taken up with a pusher fan/shroud and overflow bottle.

Looking for ideas on where else to mount. Under bed? Under floor? How?

thanks in advance...
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