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  #2416 (permalink)  
Old 05-13-2011, 09:22 PM
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musician? explains banjoDr...

i drove these trucks as daily driver for yrs with no mods in the 70s and 80s. i drove them cross country and border to border. many of these miles were in a 1 ton panel (my hippie days) with a 5:17 rear gear.

relocated tank: lots of sources there brothers has a bolt in. but as all custom work then you get into the mods; as in filler neck, where to put it.

rearend: no high speed gear sets available for these. if you change the whole axle then you have brakes, parking brake, spring pad location and possible wheel problems (6 lug vs 5 lug)

trans: with out more info; it could be as easy as a pan gasket, rear seal or maybe something major. i suspect the first. one thing you could do is put a 700r4 overdrive trans in it to solve low speed and leak.

i suspect your truck has been subframed from the power steering pump. post a pic of your axle, straight I-beam is stock, anything else is custom.

magnets lie: a magnet will stick even with a bunch of bondo. look under the truck: rear cab corners, floors, rockers and behind the wheels. feel above the headlight buckets, a bad place for rust & bondo repairs.

rough ride? it's an old truck, not a caddy. man up.

brakes: should stop on a dime with stock brakes. with out more info on the front end, hard to say.

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  #2417 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2011, 10:10 AM
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Well, finally got back from deploymet, took the truck out yesterday and as i was driving down the freeway i started to lose rpm with constant throttle, immeadiatley tried to pull over to the side of the road and as i was pulling over i think the rear end failed, as i was waiting for someone to come with a truck and my bumper tow bar i tried letting it run, it starts and idles just fine, goes into and out of gear just fine, but when i tried to pull it forward i heard a squealing sounded like from the rear end. We towed it back to my house and when i tried to pull it into the garage it would only go a few feet then the rear would lock up for a second then it would break free again. I think it's safe to say that i lost the rear end... knew it was coming i just hoped i had a little more time...


Soooo, apparently i'm looking for a new rear end, 12 bolt, 2nd gen camaro 12 bolts are a direct fit with just need to weld on new spring perches and having to get different wheels correct? What year blazer rears area also direct fit? Anything else that's easy to find that is pretty much a direct fit with just needing spring perches welded up... I have this whole week off so i'm trying to get it done this week... Thanks
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  #2418 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2011, 10:22 AM
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also would a rear end from a 1970 chevy stepside be a direct bolt in or did it change between 55 and 70?
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  #2419 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2011, 12:17 PM
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evilbeef
nothing is a direct bolt in replacement. http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/ifs&rearend.htm

most will require cutting of the old hardware and welding on new spring pads.
i bought my spring pads at a trailer supply house.

newer swaps will have 5 lug wheels, if you plan on changing to a mustII eventually your half way there.

if you get a drum brake rearend you will be able to use the stock mc.
disk brakes will need a new mc
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  #2420 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2011, 01:08 AM
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I know notjing i'd a direct fit, im just looking for as close as possible, moving spring pads won't be bad, but having to narrow is a bit out of my price range
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  #2421 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2011, 06:38 AM
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depending on your horsepower, s10 4x4 diff is 59". s10 ZR2 diff is wider but I'm not sure how much, 3" I think. would hold up for daily driver v8 but not if you plan on roasting the tires a bunch. 97 and up may have disc brakes but you would have to swap out the master cylinder like ogre says. whatever you use, just shave off all the brackets and get some spring pafs from a trailer axle shop, set the pinion angle at 3 degrees or so, with the vehicle sitting at ride angle, centre the diff side to side and weld on the spring pads. weld a little at a time and let it cool off in between, so you don't warp the housing or start a fire inside the axle tubes. I don't think you will find anything with 6 bolt wheels that has the right track width.
dsraven
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  #2422 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2011, 09:34 AM
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evilbeef
check out that link i posted
scroll down to see the rearend width info

i should have added this in the post above
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  #2423 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2011, 10:16 PM
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door panels

i am finaly getting around to doing my door panels.
i did a separate thread in the interior section for it here
Door panels 58 chevy truck from scratch
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:33 PM
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I used the rear axle from a 1970 1/2ton for my 57 stepside. It seems to be fine with the stock wheels, 6 lug and all!

I did have to add the spring perches though. Not a big deal.
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  #2425 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2011, 04:32 PM
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rearends

The rear end out of 73 to 87 chevrolet or GMC trucks with a stock offset rim puts the tire centered under the stock wheel well on my fleetside bed.You can get one in 10 or 12 bolt 5 or 6 lug.Cut off the stock mounts and weld up some 2 inch pads and bolt it in.I run an 87 10 bolt six lug with 11 inch drums 4.56 gears and a power trax locker.Most 4x4s will have 3.73 gears.


Soooo, apparently i'm looking for a new rear end, 12 bolt, 2nd gen camaro 12 bolts are a direct fit with just need to weld on new spring perches and having to get different wheels correct? What year blazer rears area also direct fit? Anything else that's easy to find that is pretty much a direct fit with just needing spring perches welded up... I have this whole week off so i'm trying to get it done this week... Thanks[/QUOTE]
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  #2426 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2011, 09:10 PM
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Rear-end

I am running a '70 Camaro rear-end on my Fleetside bed with 8 x 15 slotted mags and 275/60 BFG's. All I did was relocate the 2" spring perches. A good thing is a lot of those rear-ends had 3:42 gears, but I put 3:73 gears in because I have a close-ratio Muncie 4-speed. They have a taller 1st gear compared to the wide ratio Muncie. It was cheaper to change the gears than the tranny.
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  #2427 (permalink)  
Old 05-20-2011, 05:48 AM
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Actually, alot depends on what you're going to use the truck for. Obviously, a later full size truck axle will haul more weight than a mid size car axle, such as the Camaro, if you intend to use it as a "work truck".
I pulled a 23 foot travel trailer, among other things, so I wanted a "truck".
A friend of mine, built several GMC's, using a donor Camaro for everything, including the complete drivetrain, suspension, pedals, wiring harness, steering column and most other pieces. I still have a cab he modified for the fuseblock, brake pedal, heater, and column. A very nice piece of work.
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  #2428 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2011, 11:39 PM
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3hp mini starter

I know this is probably stupid easy and has been talked about several times, but I bought a mini starter for my 56. It doesn't have 4 bolts on the solenoid like most all others have. Hell, it don't even have any markings on it to specify ignition switch or coil!! It has 2 big threaded bolts (vertically) and a male flat connector on the outboard side (closest to the tire). The lower bolt has the wire from the starter motor on it. Correct me if im wrong, the upper bolt should have my main power supply direct from the battery, and the male connector should have the ignition wire (purple) connected to it, Correct?? Ive already got a 12v hot from the ignition to the distributor, so thats taken care of.
Another issue I have while I've got yall here, I referbished the gauge cluster but when I took it out of the truck for the first time there wasn't any wires connected to the back of it. I figured everything out, even wiring the ammeter, but I can't figure the temp gauge. Its just one stud sticking out of the back?? Is it an old style male connector?? Do I just wrap a bare wire around it??? What to do... please help me with that, I don't want to have to install after market gauges.
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  #2429 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2011, 11:55 AM
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vortec
look at post 2361 in this thread you will see what the back of electrical temp gauge looks like.
2 studs, keyed power and a ground to your temp sensor.

55 and some 56 trucks used a mechanical temp gauge with the bourbon tube.
i suspect that you have a mechanical gauge with the bourbon tube cut off.
post a pic if you can.
someone posted a thread about repairing a bourbon tube or you can buy a temp gauge

also in that same 2361 post i gave a tutorial on how to change your amp meter over to a volt gauge.
might be worth your time if you have added a lot of electrical load to your system.
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  #2430 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2011, 08:16 PM
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anyone know what the width of a 67-72 chevy truck is, i found one near me that looks like it is a fair price, it has also been set up for a ladder bar set up, would i just need to remove the ladder bar set up and weld on spring perches and be good to go or would it be more difficult than that, also how easy would it be since it comes with the ladder bars and front ladder bar corss member, how hard/expensive would it be to convert the suspension to a ladder bar set up...

thanks guys, any info would be awesome, if this set up works, i'll probably pick it up this week.
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