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  #2551 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2011, 01:13 PM
wretched ratchet's Avatar
one full turn after it squeeks
 
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I'm not worried about that, I just want to get the paint off without destroying the plate. I may be SOL.
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  #2552 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2011, 02:45 PM
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wretched
mine came off while sanding my cab. i had some paint thinner in a jar. i threw the vin in it overnight and everything came off.

my 58 vin tag was spot welded on. my truck must have been a setup for the welder. there are 5 attempts to get it welded on. a couple holes are burnt into it. one weld held it on for yrs. it's pop riveted on now.
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  #2553 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2011, 03:11 PM
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Thanks, I think a good soaking in thinner or stripper is what I'll try first.
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  #2554 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2011, 08:24 PM
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hey guys, almost ready to bolt up and weld up the new 12 bolt under my truck, got it fairly in position just had a few questions before i start tacking on the new perches, im still using the stock leaf springs in stock position:

1. What measurments do you guys recommend doing to ensure that it is centered up and in the right position before welding on the perches

2. What pinion angle are you guys using, I have a pinion angle finder, its just been a few years since i did it, lol

3. what the heck is this line/hose for of the top front right side of the 12 bolt, it was not there on the stock rear end. Is it just a vent line, where do you guys run it?


Im sure i might have another last minute question before i tack it in, just wanna make sure it gets on correctly before i start welding it up

Last edited by evilbeef54; 09-13-2011 at 08:48 PM.
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  #2555 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2011, 08:34 PM
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anyone want my old stock rear end, it does need to be rebuild, figured i'd offer it up here before i threw it up on CL
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  #2556 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2011, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wretched ratchet
Thanks, I think a good soaking in thinner or stripper is what I'll try first.
the plate is aluminum, i wouldn't use a caustic stripper. just thinner.
if you use stripper just dip and wash, don't soak too long.
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  #2557 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2011, 10:08 AM
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evilbeef
i clamped the housing to the springs and just measured to the frame to center the rearend, just tack it and then pull the housing out to weld it.
if you have a used rearend, now is the time to put new seals and wheel bearings in it.
when welding on a rearend make sure you have a good ground on the spring pad it's self.

as for pinion angle: i set mine at the same angle up as the motor is down. this way both drive shaft yolks are at the same angle. the pinion angle will be 2 or 3 degrees up. you can read a lot of posts on hotrodders.com about pinion angle, but unless your jacked up high or running extreme hp, this works fine.

that hose is your housing vent. if you can screw your old vent in there it will do the job better. clean up the old vent and make sure air blows through it.

glad to see you working on your truck. good to see someone spending money to keep the economy going. what gear ratio did you end up buying?
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  #2558 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2011, 09:04 PM
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**edit** taking this over to the rear end section

Last edited by evilbeef54; 09-15-2011 at 09:31 PM.
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  #2559 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2011, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilbeef54
**edit** taking this over to the rear end section
oh, suddenly we're not good enough for you???
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  #2560 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2011, 10:57 AM
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Hey Guys just thought I would let you know what happened to me.I sold my house and all my toys. All I have left is 2 trucks.No they are not for sale They are safely stored on my brother in-laws property.The bank excepted my offer on a 4br house with 3 car garage in Henderson.Should close on October 25.This house has enough room for a 24 x 36 shop in the back.I will start on the new shop right after I move in.I already checked on the code as far as how far from the fence and house.The neighborhood already has several metal carports but I don't know about metal buildings. Stick built is more expensive and will take more time than a metal building. My son Travis is 15 so it is time to start his truck project.I am giving him the 58 and we are putting the Vortec V6 from the Astro van in it. He is still in shock. He asked for the parts truck to build. So I decided it would be a good father son project. I am keeping th 427 and the 4L80E transmission for the other 58 truck.
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  #2561 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2011, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogre
oh, suddenly we're not good enough for you???
yes, that is it, lol j/k no i just needed some quick advice on getting it in, i was on a roll and saw there was quite a few people posting at that time in that section, plus figured someone else might have the same questions as me sooooo i took it over there, lol

ANNNNNNNYYYWAYZ, i got it all put in, welded up, bolted up, just finished putting everything back on, all that i have left to do is re-fill/bleed the brake lines which i will do as soon as i get someone to help out
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  #2562 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2011, 06:01 PM
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Bleeding rear brakes

evilbeef54, You can gravity bleed the rear brakes if you just drop your floor jack with your rear wheels off. Fill your master cylinder up and open both rear bleeders up and let it run through. But keep an eye on your fluid level. At least you can drive it until you can bleed it really good.
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  #2563 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2011, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oregonite
evilbeef54, You can gravity bleed the rear brakes if you just drop your floor jack with your rear wheels off. Fill your master cylinder up and open both rear bleeders up and let it run through. But keep an eye on your fluid level. At least you can drive it until you can bleed it really good.

Awesome, thanks, ill check that out, btw, does anyone have any tips for hooking up the parking brakes inside the rear drums with out taking completely taking apart the brakes?
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  #2564 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2011, 11:21 AM
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dd, good to you posting. come oct 26 i want to see progress pics of the new shop
best father/son project/experience was when my son was 15 and wanted to build a 68 elcamino.
we finished it about mid way thru his junior yr and he's driven it for the past 10 yrs.

my preference would be a stick built shop, easier to insulate, wire and plumb. i'm spoiled, i also like heat in the winter...
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  #2565 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2011, 08:33 PM
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Anyone know if you can purchase the bolt on rear spring hanger/shackle kit without the springs? I see kits with the springs are going for $550 but I dont need new rear springs. Any ideas?
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