55 to 59 chevy truck owners - Page 172 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > General Discussion> Hotrodders' Lounge
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #2566 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2011, 04:56 AM
wretched ratchet's Avatar
one full turn after it squeeks
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Yuppieville, Tejas
Age: 72
Posts: 1,179
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 65
Thanked 179 Times in 140 Posts
Ecklers.com has the kits without springs for $179 / 1947 - 1955 and $139 / 1955 - 1959.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2567 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2011, 08:36 AM
ogre's Avatar
the 'Duracell Project'
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Motown
Posts: 1,371
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 92 Times in 85 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by FireFighter128
Anyone know if you can purchase the bolt on rear spring hanger/shackle kit without the springs? I see kits with the springs are going for $550 but I dont need new rear springs. Any ideas?
do you need spring hangers, the big cast pieces riveted to your frame or just shackles and pins?

lmc truck has all the parts you need to rebuild your springs. follow the link. you need parts 3 thru 6 to rebuild each side. i would also buy new center bolts for the springs. if you need the cast piece under the axle or stock u-bolts, i have all my old stuff.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #2568 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2011, 05:48 PM
evilbeef54's Avatar
Almost Done... hahaha
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NorCal
Posts: 52
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
okay, lol, next stupid question, anyone have any suggestions for opening a stubborn master cylinder cap (stock brake system) that is super stubborn and probably hasnt been opened in 20 years, i tried a pair of channel locks open to put pressure on the tabs on the cap but that didnt work
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #2569 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2011, 06:17 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Sweet Home, Oregon
Age: 59
Posts: 49
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
master cylinder lid

Spray it with PB Blaster and let it soak over night. I had to use a chisel on mine.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #2570 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2011, 06:42 PM
evilbeef54's Avatar
Almost Done... hahaha
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NorCal
Posts: 52
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
yeah, this keeps getting worse, it wasnt the stock metal cap, it was a plastic one, i tried running to fat screws into it to use as leverage, they just tore through the plastic, that lil bastard is on there, lol...

anyone have a stock master cylinder cap they wanna part with?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #2571 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2011, 08:18 PM
evilbeef54's Avatar
Almost Done... hahaha
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NorCal
Posts: 52
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
lol, okay so once i realized that there was no way to get the cap out without destroying it, and that it was a cheapo plastic one it was super easy, 3' pry bar and it was easily convinced to vacate, now, does anyone know the dia and threading of this cap, and if i can use like a pipe plug or something untill i get a real one, or does anyone happen to have a good cap they would part with?

thanks so much guys, i am almost driving again... well at least long enough to turn it around and then start ripping apart the front
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #2572 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2011, 09:50 PM
banjodr's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 1
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
IFS choices for 59 Apache

Hey guys it has been a while. I have completed a repair on the transmission and am beginning the process of replacing the radiator along with the addition of a new IFS and converting from the original drum to disk brakes and a rear suspension upgrade. Also adding a rack and pinion steering upgrade. Any experience with these? I'm nothing when it comes to welding and modifications. I'm assuming I'll have to get a shop to do the work so I'm at the mercy of that shop. So I want a good daily driver even weekend trip withing a 400-500 mile radius when I'm completed with the project. I want performance but I ain't drag racing if you know what I mean. So if it were you, what or where would you start? thanks
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #2573 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2011, 10:36 AM
ogre's Avatar
the 'Duracell Project'
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Motown
Posts: 1,371
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 92 Times in 85 Posts
banjodr
it's time for you to figure out how to weld and fabricate stuff. or plan on dropping a minimum of $10k at a shop to do that work. it's a lot of work, not hard, just a lot of hours.

a mustII transplant requires:
new master cylinder, which requires: either a firewall mount or a frame mounted master cylinder. either one requires welding and fabrication or buy an expensive kit.
also you will need all new brake lines, again welding brackets.
since you need to remove the old front x-member you will need to fabricate new motor mounts. a little scrap steel and some welding and grinding. no kit for motor mounts.
a new steering column or modify the old column. welding brackets again.

a rearend upgrade requires:
welding a c-notch above the axle and boxing the frame.
cleaning up the new rearend (grinding off brackets) and welding on new spring pads.
rebuilding the springs and shackles, disassemble, clean up and painting the old springs.
or
a full blown cut out springs and weld fab a new 3 link, 4 link, air bag or what ever...

it's a lot easier to do all this work with the sheet metal off, and since the sheet metal is off you might as well replace the rubber mounts under the cab.

all the above is a lot of hours, but nothing too difficult to handle. my truck? $1900 for a hub to hub mustII, $200 gen II rearend, $35 astro minivan steering column, $200 03 must hydroboost and MC, $100 spring shackles, $30 axle flip parts, $250 ss brake line kit, and a lot of little parts and trips to napa. add it all up and i might have $3500 in parts and a lot of time (i don't want to know how much time either). but no where near the $10000 that a shop would charge.

take the extra $6500, buy a welder and learn how to use it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #2574 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2011, 09:09 PM
evilbeef54's Avatar
Almost Done... hahaha
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NorCal
Posts: 52
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
woo hoo, drove the truck around today, runs pretty good, definatly needs power steering though, manual steering and a seperated shoulder sucks, lol

no that i have a welder im ready to start fabing up stuff, i am already pushing up on the edge of the budget, soooo anyone know of any cheap ways to hook up power steering, what all parts do i need to convert to power steering? a M2 kit is definatly out of the price range, but since i'm about to rip off all the front sheet metal now is probably the perfect time... everything is still stock with the steering system right now
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #2575 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2011, 11:54 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Sweet Home, Oregon
Age: 59
Posts: 49
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
No power steering

evilbeef54, Run 6" wheels and skinny tires up front if you don't have power steering. When I had the straight axle on mine that's what I did and the skinny tires helped it steer a lot easier even with a small steering wheel
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #2576 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2011, 01:16 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Calgary,Alberta,Canada
Posts: 213
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts
sounds like you are where I was a year ago. I was going to camaro clip mine, but the good ole boys here talked me out of it. way to go ogre! I am glad too because there is just too much work invoved that you don't realize untill it's too late. like rad support mounts and bumper mounts. anyway, I went with a MII kit from total cost involved. with 2" lower spindles and air ride so I can still get in the driveway without hitting anything. you just have to do some research and know what you want to end up with in the end because most people I talked to say the same thing-most kits are pretty vague on the instructions- you could look at welders series as well, they have a do it yourself kit if-you can weld stuff- also look on ebay, there are some brand name goods there as well. I would stay away from the no-name stuff because you don't know what thickness of metal etc and some of the tubular A arms I saw were scrap, bad welds etc. there is also heidts, art morrison, and others. just google it or look in the magazine ads.
anyway, good luck
dsraven
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #2577 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2011, 02:24 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Sweet Home, Oregon
Age: 59
Posts: 49
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
dsraven, I installed a Volare K-member under my truck about 8 years ago. I really like the way it sits, rides and handles. You can adjust the ride height by turning the torsion bars. All you do is cut about a 2" notch on each frame rail and slide the K-member under. Then measure, measure, tack it, then measure again and again. Box your frame and build motor mounts. I left the original cross-member that the bell housing bolts to. I bought a 1980 Volare for $150.00 as a donor car. the pictures are blurry but you can make out what I did. I've had my truck 32 years!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	'58 Chevy Pickup - Volare clip - 327 001.jpg
Views:	103
Size:	94.2 KB
ID:	58537   Click image for larger version

Name:	58 Chevy - 327 001.jpg
Views:	102
Size:	120.5 KB
ID:	58538  

Last edited by Oregonite; 09-23-2011 at 02:49 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #2578 (permalink)  
Old 10-02-2011, 10:53 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 0
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
IFS kit

Hey Fellas,
So Im finally ready to order my IFS kit and get it installed as well as my rear end out of a '67 Chevelle. Im heading to Cruisin' The Coast next weekend to see if I can find any deals, but if not I came across this online. I dont have much knowledge of this company (Zigs Street Rods) so if any of you have dealt with them please let me know your thoughts. Heres the link to the kit Im looking at. (the first IFS kit for $2499) Im looking to replace my rear leaf springs and want my master cylinder and booster on the frame so I can have a smooth firewall, so this kit seems perfect for me. Do yall think its a good deal or should I go a different route? Any opinions are welcomed as yall have never steered me wrong with all my other questions.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #2579 (permalink)  
Old 10-02-2011, 03:45 PM
Sir-x-Loin's Avatar
The kid is the man.
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Naples, ME
Age: 38
Posts: 59
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by FireFighter128
Hey Fellas,
So Im finally ready to order my IFS kit and get it installed as well as my rear end out of a '67 Chevelle. Im heading to Cruisin' The Coast next weekend to see if I can find any deals, but if not I came across this online. I dont have much knowledge of this company (Zigs Street Rods) so if any of you have dealt with them please let me know your thoughts. Heres the link to the kit Im looking at. (the first IFS kit for $2499) Im looking to replace my rear leaf springs and want my master cylinder and booster on the frame so I can have a smooth firewall, so this kit seems perfect for me. Do yall think its a good deal or should I go a different route? Any opinions are welcomed as yall have never steered me wrong with all my other questions.

Ill back Zigs. I bought a suspension package from them about 10 years ago. They were great to deal with and delivered the goods.

A word of advice. Dont cheap out on the Mustang 2 kits. Its alot of acbbage to shell out for them st start with, but you only get one shot and you want to make it right. I didnt opt for the adjustable control arms. I wish I did when I went to aline it. It needs a smidge more adjustment. Of course, you'd never know to drive it.

I would get the adjustable arms and deff get front and rear sway bars. Your truck will ride sweet.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #2580 (permalink)  
Old 10-02-2011, 06:36 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Sweet Home, Oregon
Age: 59
Posts: 49
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
FireFighter128, I dealt with Zigs and was happy with all the parts I bought there.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Hotrodders' Lounge posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1953 Chevy Truck Vin Help Homeseller Hotrodding Basics 14 08-12-2012 09:24 AM
Mustang 2 Front end on a 55 Chevy truck? Slickriffs Suspension - Brakes - Steering 14 11-10-2010 06:10 PM
55 chevy truck rear end swap Wildman Transmission - Rearend 8 06-11-2007 07:16 PM
47-54 Chevy truck owners need a quick simple measurement sevt_chevelle Body - Exterior 2 06-18-2006 10:32 AM
nova subframe on a 59 chevy truck bet on black Suspension - Brakes - Steering 3 01-27-2005 08:48 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:28 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.