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  #2641 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2011, 02:05 PM
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Cab Corners

What is the best way to deal with the inner portion of the rear cab corners? how should I seal it from the inside, yet keep it from rusting out again in the same way? Can i forget about the inner panel, or will the outer be to flimsy without it there?

thanks!

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  #2642 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2011, 03:28 PM
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Battery relocation

ogre, I have my battery in a stainless drop down tray bolted to the frame under passenger floor. I ran a short piece of battery cable from the starter for jump-starting access
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  #2643 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2011, 07:31 PM
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!956 Door Hinge Bolts - Hinge to Cab

I have tried searching, and have checked the suppliers like Brothers, LMC and Classic Industries, but nobody seems to have the door hinge bolts to attach the door hinges to the cab. I bought a project in the middle of things, and I can't find the bolts to attach the hinges to the cab. I have a 1955-1959 Factory Assembly Manual, and I can only find some detail on Sheet 78, but on that sheet, it only addresses the attachment of the hinges to the door itself, but not to the cab.
I think these are 3/8" bolts, but I don't know how long they are, and what size washer is attached to the bolts. I don't know if they are a tapered thread or what. Does someone have any examples that you could take a picture of or check dimensions of the size, length and type of washer size? It would be greatly appreciated.
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  #2644 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2011, 09:37 AM
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the door hinge bolts are 3/8'' fine thread (3/8-24) i bought my replacements from my local home depot.
they are all relatively short, i believe 1 1/4''

if you want door switches, now is the time to add them.
here is a simple bracket i made to mount door switches in the upper hinge, using the center bolt.
the bracket is a piece of 10 ga steel, 1''x5'' with 2 holes drilled in it.

door open


door closed
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  #2645 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2011, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tweedleDee
What is the best way to deal with the inner portion of the rear cab corners? how should I seal it from the inside, yet keep it from rusting out again in the same way? Can i forget about the inner panel, or will the outer be to flimsy without it there?

thanks!
i just cut mine from some 20 ga steel i had laying around. i primed and painted the inside of both inner and outer cab corners before welding them in. i did not seal the bottom, though i did tack the inner to the outer at the bottom.

if you don't replace the inner corner, your cab will fill with dust on dirt roads and water will get in your cab
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  #2646 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2011, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oregonite
ogre, I have my battery in a stainless drop down tray bolted to the frame under passenger floor. I ran a short piece of battery cable from the starter for jump-starting access
i looked at doing that too or cutting a box in the pass step. the drop down would require a lift to replace the battery. i need to add the cable for jump starting, currently it's a PIA. i charge mine off the alternator post.
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  #2647 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2011, 10:42 PM
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Got a questions for you guys that have put the 69-70 mustang gas tanks under your bed. If I order a new tank made for a 69 mustang, will the fuel sending unit that is included in the kit work with my 55 2nd series? Im upgrading to a 12 volt electrical system but I dont have much experience with fuel systems and wasent sure if they are somehow vehicle make/model/year specific.
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  #2648 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2011, 03:33 AM
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Frame?

Did someone need an original frame still? I am moving the 58 Dually body over to a newer frame to get me power steering and disc brakes easy and cheap. I am going to have the complete dually rolling chassis available in about April.

I am currently located in Ohio

Steve
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  #2649 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2011, 09:03 AM
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firefighter: upgrading to 12v? 55 2nd is already 12v...

if your buying a new tank, make it a new tank for a 55-59. lots of vendors sell tanks specifically for frame mounting on out trucks and they will come with the correct 30 ohm sending unit. mine came from no limit engineering.
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  #2650 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2011, 03:36 PM
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Ogre,
I meant that I pulled all of the old wiring and upgrading it to new wiring haha. I saw the tanks made for our trucks but $400-$500 was a little too much for me to spend on a tank as Im on a budget. Saw a lot of people installing early mustang tanks in the rear and it seems like a pretty simple job. Just have to move the rear frame crossmember back a little. The kit I ordered comes with a sending unit, just didnt know if a sending unit made new but for an early mustang would work on my truck or not
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  #2651 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2011, 05:49 PM
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Gas tank

I need a gas tank as well. I am putting it in a newer frame and I don't know if it's just this particular one that's on sale ...but the price looks right?

http://www.lmctruck.com/features/cb/CBGTN.htm
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  #2652 (permalink)  
Old 12-24-2011, 08:40 PM
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rust neutralizer

removing rust with wire wheel and blast media is obviously the best way to get rid of that rust, and to keep it from returning. but if you have a spot you just cant get to... hit it with some 80 grit to break up the surface rust and get it smooth, then hit it with POR-15, its in a can and you apply it with a brush. Rustoleum rust neutralizer also works well, and comes in a shaker can. it convers the iron oxide (rust) to a non corosive compound, and is then a paintable surface. i have used it in a few places and no problems yet
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  #2653 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2011, 07:56 PM
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POR-15 also has a cleaning (Marine Clean) and metal etching (Prep & Ready) product. You can use it before the POR-15 paint. I used it on my 71 Cheyenne windshield frame before the glass was installed.

Most likely will have to use it on the 58 as well.
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  #2654 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2011, 03:58 PM
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Just want to say Happy New Year to everyone. I sure hope it is better than last year.

I have been working on my truck yesterday and today.

Took a sawsall to my frame and now have a shortbed frame.

Saw several ways to do it on this site. I went with Shadetree Tim's method.

Wasn't complicated or over-thought it just worked.

Tim drives his truck 75 mph so it's good enough for me.

Now I can start installing the TCI IFS in the truck.
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  #2655 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2012, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadkill58

Tim drives his truck 75 mph so it's good enough for me.
if 75 is good, this is better

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