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  #2656 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2012, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogre
if 75 is good, this is better

Ogre did you take that picture while texting on your cell phone, and eating a burrito?

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  #2657 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2012, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadkill58
Ogre did you take that picture while texting on your cell phone, and eating a burrito?
my co-pilot took all the pictures on the hot rod power tour.
notice the reflection of both hands on the steering wheel @ 10 and 2
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  #2658 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2012, 02:38 PM
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Does anyone know the thread size for the factory tie rod ends?
Thanks.
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  #2659 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2012, 07:40 PM
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Installed a new 1969 Mustang gas tank under the bed of the '55 today. I ordered the tank, sending unit and all hardware as a kit from www.CJPonyparts.com for about $120 (with free shipping!!). After a few hours of chiseling heads off some rivets, beathing the rest out with a hammer and punch and some grinding, it fits in between the frame rails like a glove. Had to drill some holes in the frame to bolt it in though. Much better option if your on a truck building budget and cant afford to spend $400-$500 on the custom tanks for our trucks.
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  #2660 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2012, 11:57 PM
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I have a decision to make.

Do I get some leaf spring perches and do what everyone else does or do I fabricate new track arms and mounts for the coil springs and shocks and track bar?

Also some way of mounting the sway bar.

I don't know if the coil springs will be too soft. I could use coil overs to help.

Looks like I might need to modify the bed as well and will still need a c-notch.
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Last edited by Roadkill58; 01-08-2012 at 12:03 AM.
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  #2661 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2012, 12:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogre
my co-pilot took all the pictures on the hot rod power tour.
notice the reflection of both hands on the steering wheel @ 10 and 2
Good to have a co-pilot.

If my co-pilot saw my speedo looking like yours she would probably bend the oh-s*&% handle.

I'm a 7 and 5 kind of guy when I'm cruising.
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  #2662 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2012, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadkill58
I have a decision to make.
yes you do and it depends on how low you want to go.
if your going to haul loads with your truck, i would not use the coil springs.
that appears to be an 82-92 camaro axle, i used a similar axle in my truck.
86 trans am, the only difference is the trans am had disc brakes.
i went the easy route and used my old springs, minus the overloads and flipped the axle on top.
i would do it again but i would do a 4''-5'' c-notch, i only did a 3'' c-notch.
another problem i had was under heavy acceleration the punkin would turn up and the drive shaft would rub a x-member.

i don't think my truck sit that low. mustII front and flipped axle in back


i fixed the first problem with old school air shocks and inflate them if i have any load in the bed.
i fixed the punkin rotation by re-installing the track bar on the punkin.
the camaro track bar originally had a rubber mount on the back of the trans.
i trimmed the length a bit and welded a small trailer spring shackle on the end and bolted it to frame x-member.

i used the sway bar from the axle.
the ends hit the frame, i heated them with a torch and bent them out an inch on each side.
i reused the shock mounts and bought the spring pads and bottom plate from a trailer supply.

i could cover you in pictures but they all show this...





notice i reinforced the frame over the c-notch, top of frame is 1/2'' from the bed.
if you c-notch more you will have to raise the bed wood.
as is, i had to trim a bed wood bolt over the punkin.

Last edited by ogre; 01-08-2012 at 12:57 PM.
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  #2663 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2012, 06:52 PM
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Thanks for the pictures Ogre!

I like the stance of your truck. If mine ends up like that I would be happy!

Lowered the frame to almost level today and now the rear is lower than front end (still stock axel with disk brake conversion). Once the IFS is installed the front should be 4" to 5" lower.

The rear end is out of an 86 IROC Camaro, and it also has disk brakes.

I have the punkin track bar from the same car so I could mount that too.

You are right about the 4" to 5" c-notch. I'm not worried about the bed. I can raise it as much as I need to (bed wood). I'm only going to haul sail boat fuel.

I was thinking about making a trailing arm that would mount to the stock front shackle. Would relocate shocks to rear of axel and inside of frame and to stock mounts. Could get some stiffer springs if needed.
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  #2664 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2012, 01:17 PM
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roadkill
what gear does your rearend have? mine came with 3.27.
the axle vent is right under the frame. screw a plug in it, grind it flush and drill and tap a new vent hole 2'' in from it.
you might look at coil overs for the back, the fab for hangers would be a lot easier.

just an idea for your bed...



trex plastic decking from home depot. easy to cut, no finishing.
it takes 9 boards and 8 bed strips to do it this way, trex is 5.5'' wide only.
notice my bed angle. i used 1.25x1.25x1/8'' angle iron around my bed.
i used all stainless hardware on the bed bought everything from http://www.boltdepot.com/ for 1/2 of what the truck stores want
and that is buying boxes of 100 not the 68 that comes with the kits. i broke 2 bolts and would have been sol.

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  #2665 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2012, 01:23 PM
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i've ignored the 67-72chevytrucks.com site for yrs, i don't own a 67-72 nor do i want to.

but...
i found they have expanded to 49-current and have a very active 47 to 59 forum.
lots of cool trucks on the site here's a link to the forum
and here's a link to my 58 TRUK build thread.
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  #2666 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2012, 03:44 PM
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Ogre,

Thanks for the tip on the vent!

I have thought of using trex as a replacment for bed wood.

I have made a decision on the suspension. I need to be able to move the truck onto the lift and as of right now I cannot.

To speed things up I will go with the leaf springs for now. However I have a 58 GMC that I can try my experiments on.

Ogre is that black powder coat on your springs?
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  #2667 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2012, 04:18 PM
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don't ever do anything for now...
especially when it comes to frame or suspension.


all my suspension and frame is por15
i took the springs apart, sandblasted everything, painted them, new center bolt and re-assembled with poly spacers between the leaves.

i do my own powder coating.
wheels, backing plates and diff cover are powder coated.
if you notice the wheels and backing plates are a shade off.
i was using eastwoods yellow, now i add a little red to get it closer to truk body color.
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  #2668 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2012, 05:58 PM
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Ogre I'm not sure what ratio the rear end is. A 3:42 was fairly common in the IROCS. Either one would be ok with me.

I want to use the trex in the bed and like you I will replace the angle to what ever height to clear the suspension.

I took another look at using the IROC suspension and it looks like I would have to relocate just about everything on the housing. Nothing that can't be done just don't want to spend the time right now. My focus is the front end of the truck.

Then why am I messing with the rear? When I finish the front I won't want to have to finish the rear before I test drive it.

I know that sounds crazy but so does buying a 54 year old truck that had been stored in a chicken coop for the last 10 years.

Thanks for your input. Keep it coming!
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  #2669 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2012, 12:22 AM
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I have searched the entire site trying to find the weight of a short stepside bed.

Anyone have a clue?
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  #2670 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2012, 09:04 AM
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just the bed? fenders, steps, tailgate, bedwood, cross bars, strips and chains all add weight.

this weighed approx 300 lbs max, 4 guys set it on my truk with no one straining a nut.

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