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  #2716 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2012, 11:51 PM
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hey guys, got the new tank in and the old one out of the cab now, 2 questions:



1. where did you guys that are doing an under bed tank run your vent line, i was thinking up under the drivers side fender well and using a line clamp to secure it to one of the fender flare bolts up top, but do you cap it or something or just leave it open, leaving it open seems like a potential hazard with it sitting in the garage, i dunno, what do you think

2. It shouldn't need an electric fuel pump right? the mechanical one should keep up just fine i would think, i new 3/8 rubber fuel line from the tank through the frame all the way to the inline filter right before the pump





on a side note, i have a bunch of parts taking up room in my garage, i will be selling them locally, no idea how to ship them, if someone here is interested in them let me know i will definitely knock the price down to get them out of my garage, or if anyone has any ideas how to ship the bigger items so i can try ebay please let me know:

Front driver and passanger fenders, descent condition, need the lower patch panels but other than those lower areas they are good

grill, needs to be painted, small dent should be easy to fix, if our bead blaster at work ever gets fixed i will clean it up

fender well headers, same i will clean them up if i can

inner fron fender wells with holes cut for the headers

stock gas tank, in good condition

probably some more im forgetting but this is it for now

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  #2717 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2012, 07:22 AM
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fuel lines

if it was me doing the fuel lines I would use a piece of rubber fuel line from the tank to the frame ( this just makes life easier if you ever have to take the tank out for any reason), then a steel line to the front, all bent pretty and secured to the frame with clamps (less chance of a leak and potential fire from fuel leaking onto an exhaust pipe or something crazy), then rubber line from the frame to the fuel pump on the engine. that way you don't have to worry about changing it again in a few years. steel line is gonna last a lot longer and withstand the elements and mechanical damages better than rubber (like if you ever lose a u joint, run over something on the road or even just road gravel). it also doesn't tend to sag over time and looks better too, like it was made to be there in the first place. you only need rubber at the flex points. steel line is probably cheaper than rubber anyway.I would also use a good quality fuel line, something with double cotton braids embedded in the rubber. fuel injection fuel line is really good stuff if you have some extra cash. also, I would use a good quality hose clamp, like the ones used on fuel injection hose, way better clamp than just a regular gear clamp. for the vent i would go over to the frame with rubber and then make a u shaped loop with it so the end of the hose is pointing downward at the end, to stop water etc from getting in. then use a vent from a differential, like a stock chevy 4x4 front diff vent from say an s10 or a full size truck. actually i think the s10 has a bigger vent (it is located next to the rad fan shroud on the drivers side if you are going to pick one up from a wreck). it is plastic and has a barbed hose fitting made to push right into the end of the vent hose. like you were saying, use some clamps to keep it tied up where you want it. I would also use a vented fuel cap on the tank, but only if your tank has an anti syphon fitting at the inlet. otherwise you may get a lot of slosh back when you hit the throttle or go over a big speed bump with a full tank aboard (just saying that because your fuel fill hose is pretty short). you don't want fuel inside your box from slosh back coming out of a vented cap. if you use a non vented cap just make sure you have a good sized vent line and end fittings that can let as much air back into the tank as what your maximum fuel flow will be that is leaving the tank, otherwise your engine will starve for fuel. if you find your engine is running out of fuel at high rpm/load conditions you can always add an electric pump inline near the tank to help keep up. make sure to use a large enough fuel delivery line from the tank to the engine. bigger is better. the suction side of the pump needs a larger line than the outlet, especially when you get farther away from the pump. don't forget to add an inline fuel filter as well, somewhere that has easy access and won't make a mess or be a fire hazard every time you have to change it. I believe steel line will flow more than rubber line, steel line has less friction loss than rubber ine does, especially if the steel line is run nice and straight.
just some thoughts,
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  #2718 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2012, 09:02 AM
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dsraven pretty well hit on all the points i would have. it's a little ghetto to run rubber that far, so much restriction that you may need to add a pump in back. change to steel line, safer and no pump needed.

the vent should be pretty much like it is. you can add a small filter there to catch any slosh or water. with your thru the bed fill and a vented cap you could plug it.
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  #2719 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2012, 09:26 AM
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sorry to steal the thread, but I'm not very computer savvy. can't seem to figure out how to contact a member directly.
hey ogre, what did you use for a rear end in your truck? I am looking at an s10 4x4 10 bolt, at 59 inches wide, might need $pecial order wheel$, or a ford 8.8 at 61 5/8 " wide, no $pecial order wheel$ required. the 8.8 is supposed to be stronger but would need the axles redrilled for the chevy pattern. I was going to go with a camaro 10 bolt but the one I got from an '81 ended up being bent and i figured the 8.8 is stronger anyway and would come with disc brakes. any ideas?
thanks,
dsraven
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  #2720 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2012, 10:17 AM
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Evil
I used a VW fuel filter in the end of my vent line for my tank and tucked it up inside the frame rail . As for your gas line take the original line and straighten it out where it turns to go to the stock tank and route it to the rear , where it ends put in a fuel filter then continue back to the new tank with 3/8 steel line, use brake line tubing. I think the stock fuel line is 3/8 already. Thats the way I did mine and never had any problems.
dsraven
The rearend in my pickup is from a 64 to 67 Chevelle 10 bolt and is 60 inches wide , fits great with 8 1/2 inch American mags.
Gene
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  #2721 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2012, 10:36 AM
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thanks for the rear end info Gene, appreciated. your truck looks cool too, by the way. I am only as far as boxing the frame and setting the mustangII front end in and a small c notch out back. now I have to get the rear end and set it in so I can finally get this thing mobile. then the body work starts.....
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  #2722 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2012, 11:19 AM
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okay thanks for the info, for the fuel line are you talking about something like this



just want to make sure we are all talking about the same thing here, and for eveyone that said run the vent line to the frame, doesnt it need to be above the fill cap? and since the fill cap is going to be in the bed it would have to be higher than that i think, right?

Last edited by evilbeef54; 03-16-2012 at 11:46 AM.
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  #2723 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2012, 11:43 AM
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stainless steel braided get real expensive. I just used a piece of 3/8 brake line tubing. You already have tubing from the stock tank to the engine don't you ? Just extend it back to your new tank. My vent only leaked gas once when the tank was real full and I was parked on an angel with the pass side lower than the drivers side.
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  #2724 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2012, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 57halfton
stainless steel braided get real expensive. I just used a piece of 3/8 brake line tubing. You already have tubing from the stock tank to the engine don't you ? Just extend it back to your new tank. My vent only leaked gas once when the tank was real full and I was parked on an angel with the pass side lower than the drivers side.

okay great thanks, i'll check out the stock line, but i dont think it was in the best of shape, if i am going to end up re-running the straight steel line i will probably just pick up a new 10' roll just trying to find someone around me that stocks it or else i found some cheaper on fleabay
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  #2725 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2012, 01:44 PM
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ok so i found a breather filter that i think will work, 57halfton you said your vent line is below the fill cap and you never had an issue with fuel coming out of the vent when filling up? I also found steel 3/8 fuel line at a shop near me, and on fleabay, i think i will re-do that once i figure out what i am doing with lowering the truck, if i do a flip rear end i am gonna have to c-notch so i will run the fuel line after that. thanks for the input everyone.

now on to the lowering question, for the front i think i have made the final decision on the reverse eye mono leafs from brothers for $380, for the rear im still trying to figure that out, i can do the drop shackles for $80 or so, if i do the flip rear end that can be done with the stock leaves right? so i would need new perches, u-bolts, and a mounting pad which i think can be picked up at a local trailer store right? and then a c-notch kit. I think that can be done easy and cheap using the stock springs unless i am missing something
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  #2726 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2012, 01:53 PM
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ahahahahahahaha


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1XuqGLBeRco

not safe for work due to language, but pretty damn funny....
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  #2727 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2012, 02:24 PM
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rear leaf springs

evilbeef54, . I have 7 leaves including the main leaf. Be sure to install poly liners between the leaves.

Last edited by Oregonite; 03-16-2012 at 02:40 PM.
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  #2728 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2012, 03:11 PM
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Rearend shackle mounts

evilbeef54, This is how I flipped my rear shackle mounts to get the correct ride height with the rearend on top of the springs. Grind off the original rivets and replace with Grade 8 bolts. I can't remember if I had to swap sides when I did this or not. you will just have to play with it.
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  #2729 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2012, 08:52 PM
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hmmm, maybe i'll just start with the drop shackles and see how it looks then go from there...

got the firewall and front section of the frame wire wheeled up, smoothing the holes in the firewall now, it is coming along nice
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  #2730 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2012, 09:23 AM
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Evil
One of the first things I did to lower the rear of my pickup was to use the longer shackle kit from NoLimit. It didn't do much, less than an inch. The shackles can't be much longer than stock because the top of the shackle will hit the bottom side of the bed floor. Save your money don't invest in a dropped shackle kit. I did put mono leaf springs in the rear that lowered my pickup about 5 inches in back. With mono leaf springs you will have to buy a pair of really good shocks like QA-1 adjustable shocks. I think the best bang for the buck would be to flip the rear axle to above the springs but you will have to C notch the frame like Ogre did. Regardless of how you lower the rear you will have to C notch it.
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