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  #2821 (permalink)  
Old 12-01-2012, 04:08 PM
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funny thing is that there is no off/run bezel on the I6 trucks
but when you get a v8 truck it has a plastic bezel with off/run/start
i guess it saves that annoying search for the foot starter

you both have the I6 starter switch
on original v8 trucks the vin starts with ''V''

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  #2822 (permalink)  
Old 01-06-2013, 03:52 PM
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Ok, my turn. I finally got some more improvements done on my truck. I purchased this 56 a couple of years ago and have been improving it as I went without pulling it off the road for long. New wiring, front power disc brakes, T-5 trans from an S10, 3.42 Camaro rear axle. The truck had a 58 283 with a rochester 4 jet that ran ok, but the valve guides were toast and would foul the plugs every 800 miles. The engine need a change and the manual steering had to go. The engine was easy, I had a 61 283 from an Impala project that ran good. Added 416 305 heads, Summit 1102 cam (performer copy), Aluminum street dominator intake for Q jet, serp belt drive from a 1990 chevy 4.3 . Engine runs great and has plenty of power. Very happy with it.
The steering was a little harder. Choices for power steering with a straight axle are either Toyota box or Chevy box. The Chevy box has many draw backs. The greatest is bump steer due to the very short steering arm.
I almost went with the Toyota until I started looking at the rack and pinion offered by No Limit. Quick steering, no bump steer, $800. Ouch $800. Wonder if I could do it cheaper. Yep. Saturn rack and pinion-free, steel for R&P bracket-free, new saturn rack inner tie rod ends-$25, machine the new inner ends-$40, outer tie rod ends, tubing and tubing ends-$60, reuse the factory column-$0, lower column bearing-$6, 3/4 DD x 1 DD u joint-$55, telescoping steering shaft-$85.
Thats it. Less than $300 for a power R&P straight axle steering set up.
It steers fantastic.




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  #2823 (permalink)  
Old 01-06-2013, 05:24 PM
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That's superb that you saved that I can't figure out how to download my pics to my profile
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  #2824 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2013, 01:14 PM
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Hey Richard,
Like your truck.
Just bought a 58 Apache. Needs everything. So I'll be picking your brain and everyone else's on this site.
I use to be a 55 man (year I was born) but the double headlights finally got to me.
Where do I go to try and sell a nice big window cab?
Thanks
paulem55
Virginia
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  #2825 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2013, 04:41 PM
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Glass

Hey fellas,
Hope everyone has been doing well. Does anyone here happen to have door glass assemblies they are looking to sell or get rid of? Im going with the original vent window type set up and looking for a used set.
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  #2826 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2013, 09:22 AM
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1957 chevrolet truck small window change to wrap around

Getting ready to to do some surgery on my 1957 chevrolet with small back window. I bought a rear cab clip locally for a big window wrap around, then bought a new large window and seal. I can see that the inside panel is different from the small to the large, but does not look like it will be a problem. I will be cutting off the back right at the body line detail, and am just hoping that the factory used same body line dimensions when these sections were stamped at the factory 56 years ago. Anybody else ever try grafting a big window section like this? I will post some pictures as soon as weather is good enough to move my hot rod outside will cutting and welding.
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  #2827 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2013, 11:34 PM
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cabs

there is a write up on it in the custom classic trucks tech section, or the classic trucks tech section. they cut it at the body line where the chrome pieces go on. the inside panel is different and it is longer top to bottom. maybe a cab strength issue? check out the article, it is pretty good info.

just as a side bar, does anybody know if the cabs from the bigger trucks, like a 3 ton, are the same as a 1/2 ton? I have a line on a 3 ton cab in better shape than my 1/2 ton cab. I would like to do the swap and then put the big back window in. my 1/2 ton needs cowls, floor, rockers and steps, lower hinge pillars, inner hinge pillars, pillar supports on the back side, lower front fnder mount brackets, front cab mount setions under the floor, cab corners inner and outer and work around the windshield because of rust. the 3 ton looks pretty good except for cab corners and inner hinge pillars. even the steps look pretty good.

any info would be appreciated.
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  #2828 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2013, 11:40 PM
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big back window conversion

check out custom classic trucks tech section feb 2009 titled 1956 GMC Truck - Almost Paneless it goes through just installing the big window and not the whole back panel of the cab.
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  #2829 (permalink)  
Old 03-12-2013, 09:55 AM
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Thanks, though I will be also replacing the back section of the cab roof at the same time with mine, this answers most of my questions. I will try to photograph my before and progress of this and post. Thanks again for the lead on this article.
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  #2830 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2013, 09:30 AM
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Hey guys been away for a while.Finaly getting back to work on the 58.My son and I pulled the front clip off and the 58 goes to the shop to have the frame straightened on tuesday july 2 It is my sons truck now and we will be putting in a small block, power steering and air conditioning. We will be replacing the 4.56 gears with3.73 gears because he likes the low profile tires.
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  #2831 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2013, 11:11 AM
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thanks for breathing life into this thread DD
something happened to my email notifications so i am not aware of posts here any more.

i looked back in this thread to see why you need the frame straightened, what happened?
you picked a bad weekend to get back on your truck with all the heat your having out there.
i can see why your son wants the 4.56 gear gone
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  #2832 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2013, 11:18 AM
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cal1320: those rack and pinion setups have always scared the bejeebers out of me mostly because of the sliding joint.
give us some feed back on your set up if you don't mind.
how many miles on your r&p power steering set up?
any issues with it?
it looks way to easy and cheap to do, especially compared to the ps options out there.

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  #2833 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2013, 07:42 PM
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Ogre, I have about 1600 miles on it so far. No bump steer, and quick responsive steering. There is a slight loss of turning radius with this rack I used (95 Saturn). I need to find some shorter steering arms if possible that will bolt to the stock spindle. I am not comfortable cutting and welding on steering arms. I don't think it's safe. I know it's been done plenty of times, but I won't do it. The telescoping shaft is from Borgeson. It's a quality piece. The inner is a 3\4'' solid DD, the outer is hollow 1'' DD. I did remove the small leaf spring between the inner and outer shaft. I didn't want any resistance of the shaft telescoping. It is important to make sure the shaft stays well greased too. The shaft also has a stop to keep the shafts from pulling apart. I want to note this isn't a conversion for someone with out decent fabrication skills. The shaft must be installed so that it will not bottom out before the suspension, nor will it top out either. As long as the shaft is not a suspension limiter, there is no problem. The only change I've made since it's been installed is with the steering column. I used the stock column with an aluminum end lathed to fit a bearing in the lower column. The steering shaft is .744'', the bearing ID was .752''. This is too much clearance and caused the column to rattle. I replaced the bearing with a Teflon bushing I made on the lathe. Nice and quiet now. Overall, it wasn't a difficult conversion. But, having front end knowledge is a plus. The front axle still needs to have good kingpins, and some additional caster wouldn't hurt either.
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  #2834 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2013, 12:09 PM
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Ogre the frame was bent when I got the truck.The passenger side front spring shacle is not in line with the rear of the front spring.I got to talk with the original owner of this truck; he said he was in a wreck and hit on the passenger side by the headlight.He sold it because the frame was bent.The guy I bought it from (second owner) had the body work done at the prison body shop that restored all the cars for the Imperial palace hotel in vegas.They just bent the frame horn out so the core support would bolt in.I am having the frame fixed at Parsons Customs.They have a nice laser frame rack and old stuff is there thing. Its sitting on the trailer ready to be droped of Tuesday at 8 am.They said it would be done and I could pick it up that afternoon.They are in Boulder city just 5 miles from my house in henderson
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  #2835 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2013, 01:12 PM
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Frame all fixed
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