[dmaggard]

Thanks DD. I knew something had to go there. I got to lookin at my paint job this morning and good enough just really wasn't good enough. After all the work I did to the engine bay, the paint needed to be right. What had happened was when I sprayed the epoxy sealer, it was too thick and the overspray left portions of the bay almost a sandy texture. It really wasn't that noticable except to me and I just wasn't proud of the job I had done so three hours wet sanding it out, and 2 hours prep and paint later.... wow! what a difference. It really turned out nice this time. Glad I took the time to go back and make it right. If I got stuff right the first time I'd run out of things to do.

DD.... what is the advantage of using a brake cable out of a 67 instead of the OEM cable for the 59?
Dave

[DOUBLEDICK]

Dave if you look at the picture I posted,it is a solid rod that comes through the fire wall to a lever that the stock cable hooks to then the stock cable runs down the frame around a pulley and to the splitter.I can get rid of the rod,the lever on the frame and the pulley that has to be relocated after the power brake booster is installed.I just have to make 2 brackets and weld an extension on the 67 cable to make it reach the splitter.Inside the cab the cable looks like it is supposed to be there but all that crap is out of the engine bay.Were the rod in picture 2 comes out of the fire wall a cable that looks just like the spedo cable comes out a grommet and follows along under the cab.In picture one the rod and lever will no longer be there.I am considering installing out the fender headers and I can not do that with all that junk in the way.Dave your paint looks great.I just rattle canned my engine bay to clean it up a bit till I can do the body work and paint.I plan to do a frame off total strip down and patch panel job to take care of the body cancer issues.I want to get everything done the way I want it first then buy another truck to drive while I do the body work and paint.

[dmaggard]

Got it. I didn't know there was a rod going through the firewall on the original setup. I am going to go ahead and order the 67 set up. I'll use the hole abovet he steering column originally for the shifter to run the cable. I still have to paint the new springs, hardware, and drop axle and I actually get to start putting things back together. I'm going to do some touch up paint work on the engine before I set it back in and I may wrap the headers. I also have to run all the new brake lines. My engine bay paint made my truck paint job look bad. Thats next winters project. I'm ready to get her back together and on the road for the spring. I wish I had the room to do a frame off, maybe next time. I really think it is easier and you get a much better job taking everything apart.
Dave

[gator412]

Originally Posted by gator412

Hey guys I need to clean my cowl plenum and then protect it some how. I am thinking about power washing it then trying to get some por 15 in there. The washing I think will go ok but getting por 15 or any thing else for that matter down there might be hard. The truck was had lots of rust on it so I doubt this area would be any different. Maybe i could gut a few access hole to be able to put a brush or stick with por in there. Then weld up the access hole. I would rather not have to cut and weld but. I'd rather do that than hev the area rot out in a few years. The plenum seems to be in descent shape with just the normal rust out on the bottom near the cab.

So any comments or suggestions?

Here are links to the pics in my journal.
http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos...1710435281.jpg
http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos...1710445360.jpg
http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos...1710445371.jpg

Ok so no help so far. Has anyone done this yet or am I venturing into new territory?

[DOUBLEDICK]

I have no idea how to do body work or where to even start Gator.Did you check all the old posts in the body and exterior categories

[dmaggard]

Originally Posted by gator412

OK so no help so far. Has anyone done this yet or am I venturing into new territory?

Gator,
I would think it would have to do with the level of restore you are doing. To do it absolutely right you should replace all the rust through with new metal. There would be other ways of slowing down the rust but unless you remove it you will eventually have to deal with it again. I've personally not dealt with a problem area like you have but it basically is all the same. I would sand blast as much of it as I could get to and then reassess what to do from there. Sorry but not much help.
Dave

[gator412]

OK thanks guys. I don't think this area has been addressed before. I have asked the question in the body forum and pretty much came up empty also. I think I will power wash it then use some por-15 to cover as much as I can. I think the bulk of the area is solid. I just wanted to get to this area while I had the cab apart. I have been replacing metal that has rusted thru and removing rust in areas that are still solid. I do have one rust thru area on the plenum that will be replaced. I might open up a hole in the other side to get some por-15 in there.
When I get to it I will document it in my journal.

DD I might have to do the parking brake cable also. That looks like a great upgrade and a way to clear out some room under the hood.

I'll be glad when work slows down so I can get some work done on the truck....

[DOUBLEDICK]

I bought a right angle drill head at Sears today.It is for a 3/8 chuck drill and was only $20.Why did I wait so many years to get 1 when they are so cheap After I drill the holes in the dashboard support and bolt the bracket in place I will take pictures before and after I bolt on the cable.

[dmaggard]

Tools make the job. I got a deal on a new craftsman drill set. I went in to buy the drill because my batteries had given up and I got a set of batteries, a drill, and a right angle drill all in one set. I thought when I bought it I'll never use it. Wrong!

Painted the springs, drop axle, driveshaft and heater metal today. Got some warp speed activator and it did real well. I'll actually get to start putting some of this baby back together this weekend. I have pics in my project journal.

DD, appreciate the extra effort and pictures. That will be something I do before I put the truck back on the road.

Dave

[DOUBLEDICK]

One of these days I will get around to doing a project journal.I should get started soon before Jon shuts this thread down for overworking his servers Gator and Dave I will be bugging you guys for information when I get around to body work and paint.So take notes and pictures I will be asking for them.

[dmaggard]

DD.......... I've painted a lot of cars and trucks and have done a lot of bodywork but that was 20 years ago. I'm learning new methods and products and so far it's a lot easier than when I was doing it everyday. Between what I know and the sources of information the internet provides, it's a piece of cake.
Dave

[gator412]

I got some primmer shot last night on the passenger side fender where I fixed a couple of errors. I also shot the upper radiator support (where the hood latch mounts), the stepside braces, and the lower grille support. But it was a pain. The first gun I adjusted and then the first piece I shot the primer came out like a water hose. A piece of crud got caught in the tip. I switched guns and the next one one of the air horns was not putting out air properly so it was shooting in an arc. I went with that cause the pot life on the primer was 30 minutes. When I cleaned the guns I found the problems. Who ever cleaned the guns before didn't do a good job. Then to top it off I lost my wedding ring! I stopped the class and had them look for it. It was in the parking lot....whewwwww.

I go to pick up the primed pieces today from school so I'll post some pics in my journal later.

By the way it was 70 degrees at 30% humidity last night....gotta love this California weather

[hotrodsbyray]

gator, i've got some minimal rust in that cowl area with no rust through. i think i may cover the cowl with one of the filler pieces some of the rod shops sell for our trucks. the other option i thought about was cutting a large door in the plenum (as the shop manual calls it) from underneath the dash. put some POR in there then maybe make a door from new POR'ed metal and sealing it shut with some short sheet metal screws. you would be able to see the end of the screws looking down into the cowl but that would be OK on mine. also, who is gonna get up there high enough to see down the cowl anyway!

[gator412]

Hey hotrodsbyray...I was gonna weld the cowl shut with solid metal but I am not going to put AC in the truck so I want to keep the vents. I only have rust thru in the side of the drivers side plenum and at the bottom of the plenums. Nothing major to repair. But I think I will put a hole in the plenums and coat the inside with por-15 a couple of times then put a top coat on it. I will see if I can cut the hole from the inside of the cab, which will be covered by ice shield and carpet.

I think I can get into most of the plenum from the top cowl opening, but where the plenum expands out near the door hinges level (or about that area) is where i might have to open it up. Then again I might be able to get some long stick up there with some por 15 on a rag.

By the way I called POR-15 today and they said to put a top coat on do it while the por-15 was tacky or if dry just scuff it with a scotchbrite. (I really didn't want to buy their primer.) The stuff I primed last night I scuffed it with 220 grit. I tried to scratch the primer off today with my fingernail and couldn't. So it seems to bite into the por-15 enough......fyi

I posted the pics in my journal

[dmaggard]

My brother came in from KY for the weekend and brought the stainless steel panels for the firewall. They are sandblasted and look great. All wires will run down the half pipe on drivers side. Mounted with studs on the inside of cab, and the hood latch bolts.

He is a professional welder and gave me a lesson on welding. What a difference 10 minutes with someone that knows what they are doing. He had me welding 18 gauge metal with a 1/4 inch gap between them like a pro. Seems like the real secret to MIG welding is the right wire, the right settings.

Putting in the springs and drop axle today. So nice to be putting back together instead of tearing down.

Dave