You can host them somewhere else first but you can upload them directly from your computer. Site makes it really easy.

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Well I actually managed to do a journal of the big window conversion. I wish I'd taken more pictures but the pics and instructions show the basics. It was not an overly difficult project but it was time consuming. I went through a lot of spotweld removal bits and got better at it as I proceded. I found the easiest method was to center punch the spot weld, then make a small pilot hole into the first layer before using the spotweld bit. Wedge an old slotted screwdriver between the layers and it will "pop" apart as you go.
I'm going to dig out my pics of the Volare IFS conversion to add next.
So check out my journal!

Murrsue, that is quite a project you did changing out a small window for a big one. Cool pics keep posting!

I've been posting all morning! It's cutting into my shop time, lol. I just posted pics of the Volare clip and 8.8 Ranger rearend. I should add that I'm not a mechanic or body man. I never would have been able to do this stuff without helpful advice found here and other places on the internet. I resisted messing with computers for quite a while and now I trumpet it's merits all the time.

dmaggard the line lock I got from summit.I took out the brake line from the master cylinder to the separator block for the front disk brakes and installed the line lock on the frame next to the master.I bought some short brake lines from NAPA and a 60's Ford pressure activated brake light switch.I put in a new line to the line lock then I put the brake light switch between the line lock and the seperator block.I use a toggle switch instead of the switch that comes with the kit because it is for burn out contests not the track and I didn't want to hold down a button while burning out.The brake light is wired in parallel with the brake light switch at the brake pedal.My brake booster and cylinder is under the truck in the stock location. I mounted the indicator light and toggle switch for the line lock to the bottom of the dash just to the left of the steering column.My switch for the electric fan is next to it.All I needed for tools was a drill for the holes to mount the line lock and the toggle switch and one of those cheap tubing benders, a couple of wrenches and a couple spade clips and those pliers to crimp them on.I just used a couple of those in line wire connectors to tap into the brake lights.The whole project took about 4 hours.

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Gator if you want to keep the 6 lug bolt pattern,the rear end out of the 73 to 87 Chevrolet pick up fits perfect.All you have to do is cut off the leaf pads and shock mounts.Then weld on some 2 inch leaf pads and swap over your brake lines and parking brake cables.I got my leaf pads for $25 from NO LIMIT. You can use a 10 bolt or 12 bolt and you get the added bonus of the wide 11 inch brakes.I put 4.56 gears and a powertrax locker in the 10 bolt I used.It had 373 gears in it which were too tall for me to get into 2nd gear in town but it would cruise at 120mph and get 10 mpg.The 4.56 with 31x10.5 tires puts me at 2600 rpm at 70 and I still get 14 mpg on the freeway.With the lower gears my in town mileage went up and the truck is allot quicker and easier to drive in traffic.You will have to put some traction bars on it or the spring wrap will drive you nuts.I installed the kit from brother trucks but after the locker was installed I had to make better mounts for the front as 500+ foot lbs torque proved to much for there mounts.You can imagine what happened next.You guessed it broken trans mount and drivers side motor mount.These neoprene mounts from Jegs cured that problem while looking good doing it.The final reward was worth the trouble.

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murrsue that is quite the project you have there.You have allot of sweat and blood invested it that truck.Man will it be nice when you are finished.The ultimate reward is you get to drive it.

dmaggard I posted on that line lock but with so many posts we get pushed off the todays post page so we will have to go to the hotrodder lounge to find this thread

DD
I'll probably just give you a holler when I start working on the brake system this winter. Right now I'm trying to put together the right brackets to mount the alternator. It is a SWP 1968 SB. Can't seem to find everything I need in one box. Didn't take it apart so I'm not real sure what all I need. I'll drop you a line when I start on the brakes. I did get to drive it a little this weekend. Got the fans and the radiator in with no problems. Needs some carb adjustment but can't run it long enough without the alternator to do the work to it.
Dave

works for me Have fun Dave.

About my rear axle...I have 5 lug pattern up front with disk brakes and would like to have the same in the back. Or could I just change out my front rotors with a 6 lug rotor to get the 6 lug front back? Either way i want the lug pattern to match. I too want to put in a line lock....but in due time.

I would think it would be easier to change out the rotors than to change out the axles. But then again, if you want to put a wheel with a 5 star pattern to it, you have to go with the 5 lug. I have one truck that is switched over to 5 lug but the entire rear end was switched out.

Dave

I agree if you want to keep the 6 lug change the rotors but if you want a 5 lug out back you will have to swap the rearend.I used a 87 6 lug gm 10 bolt out of a 4x4.but the car 5 lug 12 bolt should be the same width just cut off the leaf pad and shock mounts,weld on some 2 inch leaf pads (no limit is were I got mine) swap over the brake lines and parking brake cables and your in business.

Just thought I'd jump in here. Anyone have an opinion on which mustang II kit seems to rise to the top? I'll be going in that direction in a few months and want to get it right the first time. What's the significant difference between stock A-arms and tubular if they're going on an everyday driver?

patom...I run a straight front axle....so no help here. But I bet there will be some posting soon helping you.