I just found this thread the other day and thought I would add my $.02. I have a 55 Cameo 1/2 ton that I have owned almost 40 years. It has a 396, that I installed in 1970, and after many changes, it is now a 4x4 with Blazer running gear. I will be re-doing the truck one more time, and I have a 454 ready to install complete with the original front and rear suspension.
I have done other trucks, but these trucks will always have a special place in my heart. I have never become tired of the style.
I haven't read the complete thread yet, but I am enjoying what I have read.
Bob

Hey all,

I'm in the middle of a restorod rebuild of my 55 2nd series Chevy stepside. Chassis and running gear is all done and the suspension is modernized. All the sheetmetal is off the chassis and the down to bare metal, patch panels have all been welded in. Question: I bought a pair of Uniloc Bear Claw latches (large size) to replace the stock latch system. I want to use them in conjunction with the stock door handles (to keep the original outward look). Has anyone done this that can share tips? My biggest question is how to make the original door push-button work with the bear claw lever action to open the door. Has anyone accomplished this?

Thanks in advance.

Antny

Sorry I can't help you.I just use stock latches on my 58.

It has been a while since I posted here.I have been busy camping and avoiding work for awhile.Vacation is over and it is time to get back to work on the 58.My power assisted steering from CCP finally arrived.It looks heavy duty.I will post some pictures as soon as I get started.What has everyone been up to?

I did bear claw latches but shaved my door handles. I am not trying to change your mind but I personally really like to clean lines that this added to the trucks profile. You can check out what I did at http://www.meyerbrosrods.com/photos.../picture99.aspx. This is the first of several out pics later in the sequence. Also, notice I put the latches on the door frame side instead of being on the door.

Tom Meyer

Beautiful job, Tom! Thanks for the info. Are you using electric poppers to activate the door release? I like the idea of putting the latch on the door jamb rather than the door. Very cool and simplifies the job on these trucks. I kinda like the look of he original door handles on the truck, since mine's more of a 'resto rod'. I'm keeping the outward look of the truck basically stock (with some subtle changes) and the stock door handles fit the theme. Making them work with the bear claws is tough though due to the difference in actuation between the stock handle's in/out release button and the latch's up/down release bar. I'll keep tryin though, thanks for the inspiration!

I agree about cleaning up the lines - I cleaned up the body a bit; I shaved all the emblems and rounded the corners of the doors and welded up the seams where the windshield pillars meet the cowl - those square edges on the front of the doors totally conflict with the factory curves at the windshield posts and the cowl. Easing those corners really changed the look.

Anyway, thanks again for the info and the link, I love what you're doing with yours!

Antny

my welder broke on me, but i had a buddy bring his over on sunday and welded the nova clip to the frame for me.

i had been stalled out at this point for the last year or so, and distracted with other projects.

now to put the front suspension back together....

Antny, Thanks for the feedback. After all the work it took to do this mod, it is good to have someone appreciate it. I have not put the poppers is yet, but I will in the near future as this becomes more of a priority.

Tom Meyer

I can't wait to see those doors when you put all the finishing touches on them.

Tom,

Your work inspired me to get going on my bear claw latches. Today I finally figured out a way to use the bear claws in conjunction with my stock door handles. I had to partially take the latches apart to remove the release cam. Once out, I welded on a lever with a pad that the stock door release button will contact to release the bear claw. I got em all back together and installed the driver's side. Works like a champ! I welded up the mounting plates to the door and tacked up the striker plate to the jamb. I also fabbed up some sheetmetal to finish off the striker side, to make it all look like it's factory stock. Just gotta finish up and dress the welds tomorrow. I'll post some pix tomorrow when I tackle the passenger side.

No more worries of the doors flying open! Thanks again for your posts. Without em, I'd still be on the fence about installing them!

Antny

If anyone wants to see how I installed bear claw latches (large size, by Autoloc) on the 55 2nd series Chevy truckrod, I just uploaded a bunch of start-to-finish pictures into my photo album. After I finally figured out how to modify the latches, it was pretty easy. The only downside is the latches are not accessible after installing them. If I ever need to repair them (hopefully never!), I'll need to cut them out and reweld the mounting plate back in. No big deal since they are hidden behind the upper removable panel, but not as easy as unbolting them. The good news is that I can now use the stock door handles and locks, and the stock interior manual release mechanism/quadrant.

Anyway, I hope the pix help others that may be considering bear claws on their tri-5 Chevy's.

Next up: pancaking (or "sectioning") the hood to remove the big front bulge. It always bothered me, I think it's way too tall, and since I slammed the suspension, the pancaking will add to the low look. So now I'm going to get rid of it. Wish me lots of luck!!

Antny

AntnyL, Great news. Thanks for the feedback. I am glad to hear about your progress on your bear claw latches. I am looking forward to those pics of your handy work. Thanks again.

I really appreciate your passion on your project.


Tom Meyer

AntnyL Nice work

Thanks DD. I welded up the latches on the passenger side today, so that project is all done. After cleaning up the garage and feeding the dogs, I'm now scratching my head trying to decide the best way to pancake the hood. I measured the top of the radiator cap to underside of the hood. I have a maximum of 6-inches to play with. I'm thinking 3 or 4-inches is about the max I want to lower it at the nose. We'll see how it goes. I have no clue what I'm doing, but I'm having a blast doing it!

I'll post pix in my photo album as it comes along.

Antny

Today, I worked up the nerve to pancake my hood. I spent about 2 weeks scratching my head trying to figure out the best way to do it. After about 4 hours of intense cutting, grinding, welding, grinding, cutting, welding......I got it done. Tomorrow I'll finish up the welds and work on getting the gaps perfect. It came out exactly as I envisioned it, I still have all 10 fingers, and I didn't burn the house down. So I consider it a success! I posted a few pix of it in my album, in case anyone with one of these trucks wants to see what a pancaked hood looks like on one. After I finish off this task, it's onto the final body prep (read lots of plastic filler!). Or maybe I'll tackle the roll cage.....we'll see what mood I'm in.

Tomorrow is the Dover race track alumni meet at Marcus Dairy in CT. I'll go there in the morning for some more inspiration.

Best,
Antny