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  #1216 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-2009, 12:59 PM
Roadkill58's Avatar
Rust Never Sleeps
 

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I found a motor

I found this motor for the 58 Chevy pickup.

Check out my journal for more info.
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  #1217 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-2009, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Livinthedream57
So I picked up a 1957 CHEVY PICKUP-

1 TON
LONG BED (Step Side)
Big Back Window
....
I'd like to put it on a newer, more updated frame... Also, I need to update the wiring as well... I heard S10 frames can work...

But I need a 123" wheel base... any advice would be greatly appreciated. !!

I'm new to the whole frame swap thing- but I know in my case it would be easier than swapping the front ends out etc.

PLEASE HELP
I have seen it done with early 80s blazers for short beds but a suburban frame might work for your truck.You will need to take a tape measure to a wrecking yard and look around.Whatever you choose you will have to make body mounts brackets.The frame on a 57 is flat the whole length and the new trucks are not.

Last edited by DOUBLEDICK; 05-06-2009 at 03:45 PM.
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  #1218 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-2009, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadkill58
I found this motor for the 58 Chevy pickup.

Check out my journal for more info.
Your plate is full so you better get to eating Keep us posted.That will be a common swap before long.You should check out www.powertrainsolutions.com They also have a forum were their tech guy will answer any question you may have.I am going to get the controller for the 4L80E I am putting in my 58 from them.Also www.ronfrancis.com may be of help too.
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  #1219 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-2009, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLNOLAN
HEY DD, This is a cool thread. I bounce around a bit on the forum. You could read for days. I'm very new at this and have heard of "hijacked" threads. If I post too much or do something that isn't proper, please let me know. I just sort of jumped in and went with the flow. So is the mudbuggy for mud drags, hunting, joyriding or what? We have tons of 4wheelers of all sizes and styles, but I don't think I've seen one quite like that down here in the"Sportsmans Paradise".
OLNOLAN this thread is about everyone sharing their thought and ideas as well as their experience with these trucks.I think it is great that everyone has just jumped in and shared their projects.Keep on posting your posts The little blue buggy is just a 250 so it only goes about 30 MPH.I have a 150 that The kids and I have driven in the sand,snow,mud and all the dirt roads in and around the mountains but it is a little under powered and small for an adult.This 250 is just a little bigger with a little more power.Usually my wife and I drive the 97 Rino and the kids follow in the 150.Now the kids can bring a friend since they both have a buggy to cruise around in.We do allot of day trips were we just take the truck and trailer to a new area and park at a rest stop and take off into the mountains for the day.We are going just past Lund on sunday and going over the mountain to check out Cave Valley.I can run the 3 of them all day on about 15 gallons of gas which is cheaper then driving the truck around in the mountains and a heck of allot more fun. Both buggies are about the same width and wheel base as A Rino but weigh allot less and are only 2 wheel drive.
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  #1220 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-2009, 05:34 PM
Paul Manno
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOUBLEDICK
I have seen it done with early 80s blazers for short beds but a suburban frame might work for your truck.You will need to take a tape measure to a wrecking yard and look around.Whatever you choose you will have to make body mounts brackets.The frame on a 57 is flat the whole length and the new trucks are not.

I actually heard someone say you can use a ZR2 Chevy S-10 Truck frame because its wider?? Any feedback?

Note: I am turning it into a street truck so i would have to swap the suspension components into 2wd stuff....
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  #1221 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-2009, 11:13 PM
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1955 2nd series Chevy Pick Up
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLNOLAN
Hey Man, If you have to do your door bottoms, hows about pics,cause I'm eventually gonna have to fix mine, the have some bubbles. Matter of fact if you ever make it down to the "Sportsmans Paradise" maybe I can hire you. I'll help you and serve root beers. Nolan
Nolan..that will be the next thing I repair, the doors. I haven't look to see how bad they are so I can't say if I will need to do any repair on them. But I am sure they will need some work. I'll take you up on a couple of Barks rootbeers in trade for work! I learned how to do the body work at the local college here. I did all four fenders at the college. There are some pics in my journal of me and a buddy doing some work on the fenders.
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  #1222 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2009, 01:16 PM
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1955 2nd series Chevy Pick Up
 

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I just received my motor crossmember and the motor mounts from the guys in brown. Now I just have to get some time to install it all. Hopefully next week sometime. I have a bunch of work to do this week and the weekend.

Maybe I can talk DD into riding his new 4 wheeler thru the desert and over the mountains to come install it for me!
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  #1223 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2009, 03:23 PM
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Hey Gator

Hey Gator, I was checkin out your chassis pics, looks great. I was thinkin, if you can weld pretty good, while ya got the cab off throw in some boxing plates. Maybe a foot at the old crossmember location to beef the frame at the front leaf mount. Also at the backside of your steering box, one of the vendors recommends this because they said the frame will flex with the late p/s box. Cheap insurance, your call. If you need any help on your new motor alignment, let me know. I know an easy way.
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  #1224 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2009, 09:19 AM
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1955 2nd series Chevy Pick Up
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLNOLAN
Hey Gator, I was checkin out your chassis pics, looks great. I was thinkin, if you can weld pretty good, while ya got the cab off throw in some boxing plates. Maybe a foot at the old crossmember location to beef the frame at the front leaf mount. Also at the backside of your steering box, one of the vendors recommends this because they said the frame will flex with the late p/s box. Cheap insurance, your call. If you need any help on your new motor alignment, let me know. I know an easy way.
Thats a great idea to weld in the plates...so I think I will. I actually have a plate behind the steering box already. Also I will need help locating the motor alignment...so look for some "SOSs" coming your way.
Side note that on one of my late 70s trucks I had the frame actually break where the power steering was mounted. A chunk of the frame where the bolts were would move in and out as I turned (or tried to turn) the wheels. So yea I will weld in some plates. Thanks for reminding me. I plan on using the truck as a truck.
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  #1225 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2009, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Livinthedream57
I actually heard someone say you can use a ZR2 Chevy S-10 Truck frame because its wider?? Any feedback?

Note: I am turning it into a street truck so i would have to swap the suspension components into 2wd stuff....

Does anyone here know if the frames are the same or different between ZR2 S10 Trucks and regular ones??

My Wheel Base is about 123"....

From the research I've done measuring at the junk yard and the internet... I found that a Regular Cab short Box Pickup has a 118" wheel base approximately. In the mean time a Suburban has a 127" wheel base in the 1980's-1990's... Is it better to go longer or shorter?? Feedback?
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  #1226 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2009, 04:47 PM
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Hey Gator
Try what they call a fish plate (I think thats what it's called) anyway it's a plate that would go inside the frame channel where the steering box is. Make it out of 3/8s plate about 8 or 10 inches long and as wide as you can and have it fit flush inside your frame channel then drill through it and frame for your steering box bolts, no welding needed. I did this years ago when I built a 4x4 57 with late model running gear and my power steering box was cracking the frame.
Hey Livi'n
I may have missed something somewhere, so i'll ask. What are you working on? 123 inch wheelbase sounds long , do you have a long bed? What is it you want to do ?
Oh I was down at my local Homedepot the other day and saw a lowered 56 Chevy pickup so I stopped and took a look, It had all late model Corvette front and rear suspension in it, all on the stock pickup frame and it was a long bed , but it had been shortened between the back of the rear fenders and the tailgate. Looked like a short bed but had the long bed side step and 3 stake pockets. Looked good , but I left before the owner came out of the store so I don't know much more.
Gene
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  #1227 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2009, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Livinthedream57
Does anyone here know if the frames are the same or different between ZR2 S10 Trucks and regular ones??

My Wheel Base is about 123"....

From the research I've done measuring at the junk yard and the internet... I found that a Regular Cab short Box Pickup has a 118" wheel base approximately. In the mean time a Suburban has a 127" wheel base in the 1980's-1990's... Is it better to go longer or shorter?? Feedback?
I believe the ZR2 frames are wider than a standard S-10...
Found this on wiki:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RPO_ZR2

108.3 inches (2,751 mm) (reg. cab short bed)
117.9 inches (2,995 mm) (reg. cab long bed)
122.9 inches (3,122 mm) (ext. cab short bed)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_S-10
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  #1228 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2009, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 57halfton
Hey Livi'n
I may have missed something somewhere, so i'll ask. What are you working on? 123 inch wheelbase sounds long , do you have a long bed? What is it you want to do ?
Oh I was down at my local Homedepot the other day and saw a lowered 56 Chevy pickup so I stopped and took a look, It had all late model Corvette front and rear suspension in it, all on the stock pickup frame and it was a long bed , but it had been shortened between the back of the rear fenders and the tailgate. Looked like a short bed but had the long bed side step and 3 stake pockets. Looked good , but I left before the owner came out of the store so I don't know much more.
Gene
I have a Big Back Window 1 Ton 1957 Chevy StepSide...
Its Rock Solid...Originally a Washington State Truck... (I'm from Upstate NY So its like GOLD to us here )

Plans for it are to Lower it and turn it into a nice Summer daily-driver / Car Cruise in Piece...

Just With How this 1ton is set up...It has like massive amounts of leafs in the springs in the front and rear... and the axles are all 8 lug.

I'm not super inclined with welding etc... And since I'll be having some friends and family help me they're saying it would be easier to just do a whole frame swap so i can get my power steering, brakes, etc. I measured it to a 123" for the wheel base... and an regular S10 wont work apparently because of its frame width compared to the width of the bodies of these.
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  #1229 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2009, 05:13 PM
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And Camarofiend... just saw your post too! Thanks... The question is though since its wider... will the regular s10 components work to lower the truck to its original (or what would be) 2wd height?

I'm just trying to find the most efficient way to do it... I'm a college kid on a budget
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  #1230 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2009, 05:22 PM
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OK , I'm on the same page now .
There is a 58 or 59 that has been around town here for years (real nice truck) that the builder put all the early sheet metal on a 70s 80s 1 ton dually chassis and it was 4 wheel drive then later took the 4x4 front end out and went 2x4, There should be duallys all over where you are , keep your tape measure with you and measure standard cabs extended cabs and crew cabs for wheelbase and see what comes close. I think a 57 1 ton Dually would be way cool ether 2x4 or 4x4 your Livinthedream go for it.
Stay with 1973 to 1987 I think would be best.
Gene
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