DD please don't take this wrong, but the carb mounting surface and the center line of the crankshaft are not parallel. When you do an engine swap you level the carb mounting flange in the chassis and that should put the engine and transmission at 3 degrees down I guess.
I would put a level guage on the end of the tailshaft coming out of the transmission and get a down reading then across the U joint flange on the rearend yoke and bring the pinion up till I get the same reading up as the down reading at the trans.
Thats how I do it, i'm sure there are many different ways to do it.
Gene

Gene I just missed a step when I typed it in.I set the intake flange at zero and when I checked at the trans underneath it was 3 degrees.It was easier to see at the manifold as I jacked up the trans to mount the crossmember.So I put the gauge there.Thanks for posting the correction the last thing I want is for someone to do it wrong based on information I gave them.Gene and anyone else that see's something not quite right PLEASE post up a correction. Gene no feelings hurt here thanks again for posting that correction

Hey folks...been doing a lot of work on my truck lately. I finished up the disc conversion up front and proceeded to order a pair of wheels with the wrong backspacing...the outside edge of the rim ended up even with the fender, so that after tires were mounted and all, they would've stuck out about an inch from under the fenders . We found a good deal on an '85 10 bolt with an Eaton posi, Yukon 3.73 gear, and I think the axleshafts are Superiors. It also came with a pair of Competition Engineering adjustable drag shocks. I went ahead and started swapping it in. The overall width ended up being only 3/4" wider than the original rear axle, and the spring width is the same as original. I'm going to end up having a 5 on 4 3/4" bolt pattern up front and a 5 on 5" in back, but I couldn't pass up this axle. By the way, I'm going with Bassett DOT wheels. I think they'll end up looking good, and the price definitely fits my budget.

I'm thinking I should've left the axle alone under the Apache for a couple more days though...I'm replacing the power steering pump on my daily '87 Dodge and I ended up ruining the pulley trying to get it off the old pump haha . Until I get that taken care of, I'll have to hitch a ride to/from school. Oh well, no big deal.

-Matt

I can hardly wait.Progress on day 2

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Wow that is going up quick! Did you have any problems getting the permits to build in front of your garage?

Keep the pics coming!!!

Yo DD what are you building? Looks like a garage. I am wanting to build a garage myself but I am terrible with that kinda stuff.

Apache_Boy They finished the garage today.A different crew installs the roll up doors.The roll up doors are on back order so I have to wait 3 weeks to have them installed.I guess 10 x 12 roll-up doors are special order.Cleary building corp sells the buildings assembled.The best part is the 50 year warranty.Man the 2 man crew they sent was good.You can tell they have put up quite a few of these buildings.The motor on their compressor burned up while they were framing the building.It sure made their day when I opened my garage door and plugged them into the 220 compressor I bought this summer.I still have to do the concrete,insulate and drywall the inside.My friend bought a 40x60 metal building for $15000 but he has to assemble his.I worked a deal with him.He is a licensed electrician.I help him put up his building and do his concrete and he helps me do my electrical and my concrete Gator It was a 3 month ordeal to get the permits.First I went and talked to the building inspector and brought a drawing of the lot plan then hung out and chit chatted till he got friendly and started talking and told me what building codes and zoning variances I would need.Then I applied for the variances.Then I had to go see the city engineer to find the location of the under ground water and sewer pipes.I had to draw a detailed lot plan with all that information.I had to wait a month and a half to get on the agenda for the RPC meeting because they had to mail out notices to everyone within 500 feet of my house.That cost me $280.After I got their approval and agreed to all the extra expense of complying with the fire regulations I E 5/8 inch dry wall in the shop and house.I still had to go before the county commission and get their approval.Then I paid $600 for the permit.I only had to take 2 days off work to attend those meetings.So I guess the answer to your question is No.I just had to jump through flaming hoops backwards with my wallet open I will post pictures tomorrow when I get off work.

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I'm not looking to spend more then 5g on one because thats a little over a third of what i make a year.

Wow DD...I think I might move to Ely...I know someone there with an empty shop! That thing is massive. FYI I built a loft in my space (rented shop) that let me have tons of room to store things. I made the bottom 10' clear. It looks like to could easily build a loft and have 1/3 more room. Man that is exciting to see your shop finally up!

Do you have any plumbing in the shop for a bathroom, sink etc?

Oh flaming hoops with the wallet open...I have some first hand knowledge of that.

Gator I will be putting in a 4x6 bathroom in the back right hand corner(pic2).The bathroom will have a large basin sink and a toilet with a small base board heater to keep the pipes from freezing.The right bay will have a 4 post lift.I have to run the pluming and the electrical before I pour the concrete.A loft would interfere with the head space for the gantry crane.The small roll up door(pic2)is so I can move equipment between shops as needed and move it back out of the way when I am done with it.The shop has 13 foot ceilings inside and those are going to be 10x12 roll up doors(pic3).As far as moving to Ely watch the weather,Alaska is warmer most of the time. You might just want to come for a visit instead

1957 chevy stepside, for sale 14000 questions email me at JB3021@k12.sd.us thanks

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Apache_boy Living in Texas you might want to consider a ShelterLogig instant garage.A 20x30 that is 16 feet tall goes for $2700 www.northerntool.com type shelterlogic in the search bar.

I wouldnt buy one of those because i need an actual building. I'd get this probly, after researching a ton...

http://www.muellerinc.com/building/prefab_kits.php

Apache_boy another good place for metal buildings is www.superiorportablebuildings.com my brother inlaw bought on of these for his lift.He is real happy with it and they put it up you just have to have the concrete slap to put it on.

Sounds like you have the shop figured out. That is going to be one nice shop!