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Old 04-04-2013, 05:58 AM
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deadbodyman deadbodyman is offline
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I've wore out a few air flangers I f I remember correctly breaking the seam under the taillight is a bear the seam with the spot welds is on the insideand hard to get to, even harder to weld up.
If the jamb is in good shape I leave all that too but I cut the replacement after the first bend so the 1/4 goes into the jamb ,I;ll use the punch side of the flanger tool to make spot weld holes and then I weld the 1/4 inside the jamb..I always wonderd why someone would put a 1/4 on and make a three sided seam on the outer skin ,by the time their done theres bondo covering the whole 1/4...when your done there should only be one seam a flanged one ...If your careful and you take precautions after your done welding the flanged seam all the way across. two coats of finishing putty is all you'll need no bondo...the biggest mistake you can make is to get tired of all the welding and think thats good enough...look at the pic of this flange joint ,theres a lot of welds and its on securely but if you dont have the whole seam welded it'll leave a ghost seam that you'll only see at a certain angle but once you see it you'll never get lazy with the welding again...
as I was saying this seam is only about half welded and there'll be thousande of welds before your done if this was bondo'd up right now there would deffinetly be a ghost seam...
Once youve welded the whole seam and ground the weld s (dressed the metal) you shouldnt see any trace of a seam BEFORE you put the filler to it......Do like this and then see how the heads turn....Take your time on this seam it pays in time saved on the rest of the job
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Last edited by deadbodyman; 04-04-2013 at 06:07 AM.
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