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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-04-2013, 06:58 AM
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I've wore out a few air flangers I f I remember correctly breaking the seam under the taillight is a bear the seam with the spot welds is on the insideand hard to get to, even harder to weld up.
If the jamb is in good shape I leave all that too but I cut the replacement after the first bend so the 1/4 goes into the jamb ,I;ll use the punch side of the flanger tool to make spot weld holes and then I weld the 1/4 inside the jamb..I always wonderd why someone would put a 1/4 on and make a three sided seam on the outer skin ,by the time their done theres bondo covering the whole 1/4...when your done there should only be one seam a flanged one ...If your careful and you take precautions after your done welding the flanged seam all the way across. two coats of finishing putty is all you'll need no bondo...the biggest mistake you can make is to get tired of all the welding and think thats good enough...look at the pic of this flange joint ,theres a lot of welds and its on securely but if you dont have the whole seam welded it'll leave a ghost seam that you'll only see at a certain angle but once you see it you'll never get lazy with the welding again...
as I was saying this seam is only about half welded and there'll be thousande of welds before your done if this was bondo'd up right now there would deffinetly be a ghost seam...
Once youve welded the whole seam and ground the weld s (dressed the metal) you shouldnt see any trace of a seam BEFORE you put the filler to it......Do like this and then see how the heads turn....Take your time on this seam it pays in time saved on the rest of the job
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 04-04-2013, 09:32 AM
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I tack it around then build off each tack. Keeps it cooler and less voids. In the end it looks like that pic but less voids, but not perfect. Just good enough for a shop.


I had to take it off by the taillight cause there was an old flange sandwiched in between and patches that could only be fixed with the quarter off. Fixing those is where the boss is gonna think, "why isn't that quarter welded on." The boss' lapdog seems to think that's an 8 hour job-YEAH RIGHT! It takes about 5-6 hours just to cut it all out.
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Old 04-04-2013, 05:59 PM
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10 hrs welding alone....the ins co gives you more than 8 to replace a 1/4 on a newer car and they arnt known for throwing the hrs at ya...
Ask Brian what the typical 1/4 replacement time is for some full size car,he'd know better than me...
If your looking to shave off a bunch of time you can weld every 1/4" or so and use filler as long as that seam is hidden behind the moulding but the last foot or so would have to be welded all the way where the spear stops....I just saw a 55 today that was a nice daily driver and for sale but it was a 4dr...
I'd much rather work on the old stuff ,its a lot more fun...
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:31 PM
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so I was planning on flanging it and I already knew one area didn't have enough meat on it for a 1/2" step(back half) cause I listened to the bone heads trying to dictate the repair and that back area I cut out first to do the wheel house and didn't leave enough meat cause I thought I was going into the pillar at the time. So when the decision was final to step it I left enough meat on the front half but when it came time to flange the stinking flanger was barely too close to the bodyline and the flanger wouldn't fit. I'm almost tempted to do an open butt weld and leave the two small areas I used to cleco it up top leave them as small tabs so it laps on the two tabs that helps hold it up but everything around it will be a butt weld. Then again I'm not sure if I want to do that due to the atmosphere around the shop right now. Screw the excuses though it was my fault and if I have to lap weld it then I guess I can say it's a first...and last. The good news is we're getting the other side of the taillight panel which would have had to have been pushed out away from the deck lid but also the rear body panel on that side needs to come out a hair as well so taking that piece out solves both issues on top of the areas that would have needed patches. It was toast anyways. The other good thing is that the gaps line up perfect with a little wrestling and cutting and welding. The lap weld will also be really close to the bottom of the moulding so I think it won't turn out that bad. It wont need a lot of mud. Maybe I can order a hand flanger that allows the room and get next day air and it will be here before the part...hmmmmm
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
10 hrs welding alone....the ins co gives you more than 8 to replace a 1/4 on a newer car and they arnt known for throwing the hrs at ya...
Ask Brian what the typical 1/4 replacement time is for some full size car,he'd know better than me...
If your looking to shave off a bunch of time you can weld every 1/4" or so and use filler as long as that seam is hidden behind the moulding but the last foot or so would have to be welded all the way where the spear stops....I just saw a 55 today that was a nice daily driver and for sale but it was a 4dr...
I'd much rather work on the old stuff ,its a lot more fun...
thanks for the help, your advice is always appreciated.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 04-05-2013, 06:57 AM
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I missed a post..
Any time I do a full length 1/4 splice I always go into the jamb...You cant get the flanger in so I flange what I can and I'll butt weldthe last inch or two of the ends...same with door bottoms you can only flange untill you hit the end of the inner door then you butt weld the rest.you wouldnt want a lapped flange joint here anyways the two layers would make a hump where it wraps around the inner door
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Old 04-05-2013, 09:34 AM
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no no, I did what you are talking about. The planned flange might be lapped but right near the edge before the jamb and the jamb itself is an open butt weld, and the bracing is a nice backing strip.
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:09 AM
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bemding tab over

Quote:
Originally Posted by tech69 View Post
Ok, apart from the pain from taking out a replacement quarter at the seams in which the guy welded areas together that were supposed to be leaded, I'm finding my game plan isn't something I'm too confident about. Well I am but I like to always be sure and that's why I asked The Guru and now am asking for your input.


So the new quarter has the edge that is supposed to hold the window felt in and in the pic you can see the holes for it. Thing is, that flange isn't bent down like it's supposed to be.


This edge is original as the replacement quarter wasn't a full quarter. Thing is, this line is narrow at the edges and gets bigger towards the dip. My concern is that this will be hard to get that shape right and with the proper gap to the glass.
So what I elected to do as of now is to make a tape template of that top piece and measure the gap to the glass opening and flat area of the quarter in a few different areas and while the cut out quarter will still have this area in place I will attempt to fold the flange over and make it look good on the new quarter, and if I'm confident in that then I will proceed to cut out that area on the old quarter. If this area that folded over was straight it would be a no brainer but If I leave it too wide wherer it's narrow the glass might bind. Please chime in if you have dealt with this. If you haven't and have something good to offer let's hear it.

Hi I just installed two quarter panels on my 55 2 door sedan. Here is how I fixed this: I took a careful measurement of where the fold was and scribed a line with a sharp point. Then I took a thin whiz wheel and took it across this line so to weaken the metal. After folding it down I carefully welded the line back and ground it down. IT WORKS. The Muncieman
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:13 AM
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I got it handled. I just flanged the replacement quarter by sliding it under the lip, scribing it and making flanges of 1/2" and sometimes less. The lesson here is to not let somebody else in the shop dictate your repairs. It's gonna turn out fine with perfect gaps. just waiting for the tail light panel to show up.
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:50 AM
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show a pic of what you came up with...tech
I didnt know the 1/4 was already replaced once ...sorry
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:05 AM
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still waiting for the other half of the tail light panel. I'll take pics when it's done. I'm tempted to only flange where it's clecko'd to hold it up, like maybe an inch around the clecko hole and then cut it everywhere else for an open butt weld. Then I could later reach into the quarter and cut the squares off. just worried about it sagging.
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Old 04-12-2013, 04:40 PM
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Ok,Heres something for you to try,just remember where it came from....
remember you were talking about welding a strip to help with doing a butt weld ?
try this on a long seam...
using drill screws screw a 1-2" strip in to help hold the butts in place and back up the weld but insted of steel use a copper strip....when your done unscrew the copper strip and BAM!!! you have a perfect straight butt weld because the copper sucks up heat and backs the weld....
................................................lu v ya 2....................
DBM
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muncieman View Post
Hi I just installed two quarter panels on my 55 2 door sedan. Here is how I fixed this: I took a careful measurement of where the fold was and scribed a line with a sharp point. Then I took a thin whiz wheel and took it across this line so to weaken the metal. After folding it down I carefully welded the line back and ground it down. IT WORKS. The Muncieman
I have a few pieces of new sheet metal left for a 55 chev. I have the drivers side full outer rocker from Cars and also have a right and a left tail light to trunk piece. I have one for the left side and one for the right side
I will give you a friendly price if you are interested

Gary
267 424 5838
SlaTINGTON pA
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:34 PM
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Deadbodyman,

Should a flange seam be used whenever possible? Do you do anything to the back side to seal it so water doesn't get in and sit there?

I have read elsewhere that a but joint is the favored method.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2013, 01:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Ok,Heres something for you to try,just remember where it came from....
remember you were talking about welding a strip to help with doing a butt weld ?
try this on a long seam...
using drill screws screw a 1-2" strip in to help hold the butts in place and back up the weld but insted of steel use a copper strip....when your done unscrew the copper strip and BAM!!! you have a perfect straight butt weld because the copper sucks up heat and backs the weld....
................................................lu v ya 2....................
DBM
that's a great idea! I'm thinking it can work with metal too if you just do a few light tacks and then unscrew it and it would only need to be screwed on top, the bottom could be held down flush with a screwdriver while welding. Man I come up with good ideas! Just kidding. Thanks for that tip! The worry isn't the butt weld at all the worry is holding it up but that solves that. I came home today thinking "I'm just gonna get it done-screw it!" I'll tell ya why...

look closely


ying and yang aren't agreeing here


this was a good idea.


this wasn't. I should have made my second cut on top cause the top needs to be round anyways and skinnier and I could have rounded it easy by cutting and reshaping. Guess hitting one bird with a stone is good enough on this one so I might have to make two cuts or carefully hammer and dolly the top edge round. The bottom one not as important. Damn bumper doesn't hide it!


really? On this I will tunnel the top of the quarter...cut a slice and insert a piece of rounded sheet metal inbetween. It also needs to go out up top on the outside so that idea will work well.

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