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Old 04-01-2013, 07:23 PM
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55 Chevy QTR dillemma.

Ok, apart from the pain from taking out a replacement quarter at the seams in which the guy welded areas together that were supposed to be leaded, I'm finding my game plan isn't something I'm too confident about. Well I am but I like to always be sure and that's why I asked The Guru and now am asking for your input.


So the new quarter has the edge that is supposed to hold the window felt in and in the pic you can see the holes for it. Thing is, that flange isn't bent down like it's supposed to be.


This edge is original as the replacement quarter wasn't a full quarter. Thing is, this line is narrow at the edges and gets bigger towards the dip. My concern is that this will be hard to get that shape right and with the proper gap to the glass.
So what I elected to do as of now is to make a tape template of that top piece and measure the gap to the glass opening and flat area of the quarter in a few different areas and while the cut out quarter will still have this area in place I will attempt to fold the flange over and make it look good on the new quarter, and if I'm confident in that then I will proceed to cut out that area on the old quarter. If this area that folded over was straight it would be a no brainer but If I leave it too wide wherer it's narrow the glass might bind. Please chime in if you have dealt with this. If you haven't and have something good to offer let's hear it.


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Old 04-01-2013, 07:59 PM
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Being the shape is wrong there, it probably means it's wrong along that area including where the moulding goes and if I were you I would seriously think about leaving that portion of the original quarter there.

This advice comes with very little info looking at a couple of photos but I would study this idea if I were you.

To fold that flange over tight is going to he hell keeping that upper line straight, and the holes in the quarter for the window seal you know are wrong (but then of course so will the repro seal), I am just thinking, look into leaving the original there.

Brian
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:20 PM
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It's like that on both sides. not damaged or anything. Can't believe the manufacturer of that quarter has suggested people just bend that over when that flat area is narrower at the ends. My cheapo brake won't work and plus it isn't straight anyhow. I would have to do it with my taco grips and then smooth it out with a dolly. Getting it smooth would be no problem but I see issues down the road with having to mess with the quarter glass tilt and/or having a rough time opening it up cause I didn't make it narrow enough at the ends, or even a huge gap...

The good thing is I can try to make the bend on the new quarter and measure it up to see how it turns out and if it's not looking good I can always scrap that idea cause the old piece is still in the old quarter, and maybe think of something just below it.
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:19 AM
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When it comes to those crap repops use only what you have too and leave as much of the original as you can...That part dont need replacin so leave it.
since those usually only rot on the bottom and back where the bumper is you might want to concider cutting & welding it at the moulding ...
#1: I wouldnt replace any of that American beauty with cheap chineese recycled rust panels
#2 If someone was holding a gun to my head and I had to use chineese (recycled rust) panels I'd only use just what I had too
Some people think I paid for the whole 1/4 I want the whole 1/4 put on.they are thinking they want a whole new 1/4 installed because its better when in fact the more you use the less the car is worth,its up to you to talk them out of it and educate them a little weather its your boss or the owner ...have a litte respect for these Amarican classics,dont hack one up just because someone is paying you...
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:15 AM
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I was hoping you'd chime in. Ok, I'll think of something for that upper moulding. maybe a tuck under or something. That idea was discussed and majority say the same thing as you. I already have it cut out at the seams in the back, which it definitely needed. On the seam behind the taillight for instance they still had the old flange sandwiched in there and was covered with filler before it got blasted.

So now I got a rough idea of what I'll do in that area. what about the door jamb? The quarter doesn't get stuffed above the rocker or anything and seems like an easy cut out if I just cut it out at the factory seams along the lead seam to the rocker and hinge pillar. My concern with that is if the gap to the door isn't right then shifting the quarter means shifting HALF of the taillight opening. and I already assume there will be some surgery around that taillight area as is. Ever have that issue with replacement quarters for a 55? Thoughts?
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Old 04-02-2013, 11:01 AM
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Deadbodyman you are "dead" on, and I could not agree with you more nor could I have said it better myself.
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Old 04-03-2013, 12:15 AM
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now the game plan is to take it to the factory seams by the tail light and upper rear body panel, to the seam on the rocker and the jamb, but cut the new quarter right below the mouldings on the top of the quarter. I could probably open butt weld it where it's cut but no need to try to be superman. I will do it the best way possible that makes it the easiest. Probably run my flanger on the top of the cut on the new quarter and slide it right in.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:21 AM
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Why flange it and run the risk of changing the panel shape and causing more work, when the seam will be under the moulding anyway?
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by tech69 View Post
now the game plan is to take it to the factory seams by the tail light and upper rear body panel, to the seam on the rocker and the jamb, but cut the new quarter right below the mouldings on the top of the quarter. I could probably open butt weld it where it's cut but no need to try to be superman. I will do it the best way possible that makes it the easiest. Probably run my flanger on the top of the cut on the new quarter and slide it right in.
On the ones I've done I cut the orig at the center of the moulding holes then cut the replacement a tad higher so I had all the trim holes showing then overlapped the panels and lined up the orig holes to the new panels holes and drill screwd it with just enough screws to hold it in place...my new seam was split at the center of the trim holes ,I usually use a lap joint on these long seams for added strength and less warpage while welding...using a butt here would be unpredictable
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:10 AM
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I would suggest that the replacement be cut at the trim holes and let the original overlap on the inside past the trim holes. Its much harder to seal the inside, so I would rather have the upper panel overlapping on the inside. JMO
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Old 04-03-2013, 09:14 AM
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that was an idea we kicked around. too bad i already cut it out. not sure if the lap joint would have worked cause the guy is a metal fabber and we were worrying about his thoughts on that and coming in and seeing it lapped on. not that it's wrong but it's just him misunderstanding. On another note, he might not see a flange or shall I say backing strip? I kind of want to do the backing strip cause in the rear by the tail lights there will be 3-4 patches that have to be made before the quarter even goes in, and I already foresee people looking at me wondering, 'why isn't the quarter welded in yet'? So if I did the backing strip that would take less time overall than a flange, and it wouldn't hurt the shape so less mudding too.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:24 PM
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sorry when I say lapped ,I mean flanged .no self respecting pro would ever overlap a panel ...
.The flange joint would allow the replacement panel seam to be centered at the trim holes...This way the moulding covers the seam so theres absolutely NO CHANCE of a ghost seam...Something to concider also
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:38 PM
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[QUOTE=tec 3-4 patches that have to be made before the quarter even goes in, and I already foresee people looking at me wondering, 'why isn't the quarter welded in yet'? So if I did the backing strip that would take less time overall than a flange, and it wouldn't hurt the shape so less mudding too.[/QUOTE]

Actually the flanger makes a much better and stronger seam and much faster than a strip...
a strip would have two open ends and the top one would be holding moisture like a cup as compared to a flanged seam with one open end (on the bottom)
not only that when you make the flange your giving the edge of the seam strength because your putting a step in it....If you weld a strip you'll be heating up the edge everywhere you put a tack ,(making it wavey)...
You do have a flanger dont you ????
This camaro 1/4 only took about 3-5 min..to flange..
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:57 PM
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yeah, I got a flanger. I'll think about that one. There's enough meat on it still for that. The last two quarters I did for him were both flanged.

I agree with the backing strip. just trying to make it the easiest way possible cause there's a jerk lingering around the shop snickering about my game plan cause he wanted to leave the jamb. not sure why he's so concerned with what I'm doing but it adds pressure on me and making it easy is a way to cope.
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:19 PM
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sorry when I say lapped ,I mean flanged .no self respecting pro would ever overlap a panel ...
hahhaa, thanks for clarifying that. I didn't want to say anything so I put it on the customer by saying he's a metal fab guy, which he is, but I didn't want to say, "I'm not doing that."

Thanks for your insight. Man, these 55 Chevy quarters are a lot of work compared to some other ones I did. 3 lead seams I burned out already.
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