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Old 05-30-2013, 01:14 PM
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55 Willys CJ5 350sbc

Im new so bare with me, i recently purchased a 55 Willys in pieces, rolling chassis, tub all panels r original, tub has been boxed, my big ?? is the 350
small block i have for it, the block was recenlty bored 30 over cleaned n looks like new, aslo the crank is like new, everything else is somewhat rough looking like the 327 manifold, carb, n also no heads for it, they were
cracked, so my ? is starting from bottoms up (crank) what types n sizes of product/parts should i use, it has a worner T5 5spd, 4lows, n a OD, Dana 27 front, Ford 9"rrend, gears 420 front n rr, man lock hubs, prev owner said he got almost 20 mpg? i just want bascially a nice new rebuilt
350sbc to be able to drive on freeway n take offroading for hunting n high
country. The block is made 69-80yr, the crank is 69-85yr, Large journal rod 2.10", main 2.450", crank stroke 3.484 is cast, it had a 327 Int manifold yr 62-64 , im not sure on carb,it is a 4bbl, is there n easy Top kit i can buy to finish, what cam? anything else anyone can think of, sorry i do need a lot of help, but my 5 yr old son reall wants to work on it with me, ya he wants monster truck tires on it, even said he woudl sell his toys
to help pay,LOL, thanks Derek, Morgan Hill, Ca

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Old 05-30-2013, 02:38 PM
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Derek, do you have rods and pistons that you're going to use, or are they on the "parts to get" list? What are your goals with this 350, a hi-torque engine with a lot of low end, or a high-winding engine? Tell us what you have and what you want to end up with and we can better help you.
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Old 05-30-2013, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigEd36 View Post
Derek, do you have rods and pistons that you're going to use, or are they on the "parts to get" list? What are your goals with this 350, a hi-torque engine with a lot of low end, or a high-winding engine? Tell us what you have and what you want to end up with and we can better help you.
No rods or pistons, just the bare block n crankshaft i would need everything else, i do have the old 4 bbl carb n intake manifold, dont think theres anything wron with them just look old n dirty, but yes i need everything else, im think hi torque with a lot of low end, just as long as i can drive the speed limit here n Calif, 65 or so, im not a lead footer, i would like to make use of the low gears n the tranny for slow driving when im on old bumpy dirt roads hunting wild hogs or deer, thanks, Derek
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:45 PM
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road hunting uses a lot of gas.4x4s use a lot of gas.performance engines use a lot of gas.steep gears use a lot of gas.
you are off to a poor start for economy.
You will need to be very specific in what you need the truck to do in order for us to get economy out of your ride.

My buddy had a 283 in a wilys with 5.13 gears,,,it was fair at gas mileage and great off road
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:53 PM
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What would I do?
First off, with the 4.20 gears, the motor will not take kindly to any kind of tall tire, particularly if you screw a too-large cam into the motor or use too-big cylinder heads. I'd keep the tire size at 30" or less, but with an agressive tread pattern. If you have it in your mind to use something like a 35" tire, then you should also be thinkin gears that begin with a "5" or a "6".

When you say that the block is bored, it sounds like someone held back the pistons that the machine shop used as a standard to bore to. Generally speaking, a shop will not want to bore and hone a block unless they are holding the pistons and rings.

First thing you want to do is to take the block back to the shop and have them inspect the main bearing bores for being round and parallel. If not, then have them align-hone or align-bore the passage to insure that they're round and parallel. Then measure your stack of parts and cut the block decks accordingly to establish your squish.

Keith Black pistons, #KB142-030, 18cc dish. These pistons, used with the RHS heads listed below, will produce an 8.8:1 static compression ratio. Matched up with a short cam, the end result will be a very tractable motor in the lower rpm ranges and the ability to rev to 5000.
5.7" rods.

Crane 260-H10 flat tappet camshaft, installed retarded 4 degrees. This is a flat tappet hydraulic cam. If you are bucks-up, go with a roller hydraulic cam and rollers. If your budget forces you to use a flat tappet cam, please read through this tutorial several times so that you understand that there is a risk.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks

RHS/CompCams Pro Vortec heads (new old stock) #12403 cast iron, bare, 170cc intake runner volume, 67cc combustion chamber volume, straight plugs, 2.02" intake valves, stock length, 1.60" exhaust valves, stock length.
Comp Cams 12403 Pro Torker Small Block Cylinder Head : Amazon.com : Automotive Comp Cams 12403 Pro Torker Small Block Cylinder Head : Amazon.com : Automotive
These are BARE heads, so you will have to purchase the valves and other pieces to fill the heads. These kits are called "head improvement kits" and are available at several sources. Competition Products has them for a very reasonable price......
Head Improvement Kit, Chev SB, 2.02-1.60" Valve, Hyd/Mech FT - Competition Products

I think I would use either a factory intake manifold or an Edelbrock Performer #2101. The idea is to keep velocity up.

The numbers look strange on this build, until you realize that it is tailored to low-speed operation and axle-twisting torque.

RPM....HP....TQ
1000....79....415
1500...133...464
2000...183...480
2500...221...465
3000...259...454
3500...288...432
4000...309...405
4500...315...365
5000...300...315

Peak volumetric efficiency 85.2% @2000
Peak BMEP 203.4 lbs @2000
I would expect for this little Jeep to have the ability to climb straight up walls.

Last edited by techinspector1; 05-30-2013 at 11:03 PM.
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Old 05-31-2013, 08:49 AM
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The tires on it r 31", n im not going any larger, as far as fuel economy, im
not making it a commuter, just on weekends im not hunting i would like to be able to run the back roads occasionaly n maybe one or two longer distance overnight hunting trips to high country (200miles one way to 8k elev) were i deer hunt above timberline. Im aware of my limitations as far as the gear i have now but the only real money i want invest is n the motor just to get it running, nothing real technical internally and nothing flashy exterior wise, wanting to know if anyone can recomend parts from
distributors like Jegs or Summit, im not as intense a gear head as you all
but i can appreciate your passion n superior knowledge, another questions
as i due need head should i go with Alum or Iron n then whichever i pick should the manifold be of the same corresponding metal, ie, Alum or Iron, does it matter if i bought new Alum heads n put n iron manifold or visa versa, n the brand of manifold, r the generic if u will versions of Edelbrock
as good as they say for half the price? From $300 for name brand down
to $125 for generic brand, as u all know i due need to keep this a small block as far as all the other dress up parts like, water pump,air cleaner,valve covers n manifold height. I have the stock starter, water pump n newer distributor-cap-rotor, might replace, starter with newer
one n the water pump to a shallow ( 5 1/2") billet alum high flow one
as the old one is shallow also, one more thing is the radiator, the stock
one looks like it is the original, previous owner said when 350sbc was running he had no overheat issue, should i have orig, reconditioned or just
replace, the other whild im at it is the original metal gas tank, n sending
unit, should i have cleaned inside n out n re-use or replace with another
metal or plastic, sorry again for length still trying to decipher all of my
options n all your gear heads professional inputs, Thanks Derek
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