Does anyone know which would be better or where to get information on this type of swap. I would like to put a Ford motor in my truck. I have heard that you run into some oil pan problems with a Ford motor and GM chassis. Thanks for any help.

Not sure why you want a S10 or ranger chassis? I know several people including myself with 56 F100's. Most keep the original frame and install an IFS front end such as the Mustang II or Volare front end or just keep the straight axle which I did. As far as the oil pan, you can always make modifications by cutting or adding to the oil pan. I haven't heard of issue with the oil pan yet. I will tell you that using either chassis will require modification for the cab, bed, etc to mount and fit correctly. What drive train are you looking at using? and what rear end do want to fit? I'd also check out Ford Truck Enthusiasts website. Those guys are all into the 53-56 Ford trucks. Good luck.

while an Mustang II IFS is a great option, the ranger frame or s10 are good too. I am using an s10 frame on my 41 ford sedan and i have used a ranger frame on a 48 Ford P/U. Some people are totally against these swaps and thats ok.
On the 48 P/U we had to fab body mounts and the usual but it was a good build.
The ranger offers many options:
-CHEAP!!!! but not junk. you can pick up rangers dirt cheap in most areas.
-Strong frames that are set up for trucks not cars
-There are more than a few ranger/V8 swap kits. (302/351W/460/even a chevy 350 kit!)
-the frames are relatively straight and don't dip much.
-The frame from a std. cab long bed slipped right under the 48 w/o cutting it.
-Safety there are benefits to a frame that is only 20 years old compared to 50 or 60 years.
-You can drive the truck to any ford dealer and get it aligned/serviced w/o a problem
The downsides:
-I-beam front end with limited lowering
-header problems if you don't go with a kit.
-plan on relocting your oil filter with a SBF
-Lots of fabrication. It isn't a bolt on!
**AND it goes against the trend of using a MII front end. This will effect resale and people will give you garbage about not staying on the normal path.
I however recommend this type of swap. Simply put it is cheap and if you do it right just as strong. People have said frame swaps aren't period correct, are cobbled together, or are hack jobs. I've seen just as many MustangII suspensions break, cobbled, and hacked. In the end decide what is best for you. This swap is definately a good swap in my opinion. I can tell you this my Dad drives the wheels of the 48 ford and doesn't have any issues.

I agree with 41Ford1. The ranger works great, we put one under a `51 f-1 w/ 400 v-8/auto. had to use a van oil pan & made our own motor frame mounts. It's not a bolt in, but with alot of patients and figuring it should work just fine.

GOOD LUCK !!!!!!

For motor mounts we used 4.0L ranger lower mounts and fabbed the uppers out of steel plate. The truck is running a carbed 302 and an AOD. We were also able to reuse the trans mount. We used a 1990 long bed ranger with a 2.3L/A4LD. The 302 is an 88 mustang roller motor.
Most 4.0 rangers have 8.8 rears with 10" drums.
These frames are tough. So is the S10 frame. the S10 is more like a car suspension and have more options for lowering.

The total for the ranger frame/rearend/steel/ motor mounts/brake lines/steering box/ front end rebuild kit / 4 shocks/ and a belltech swaybar kit was around $650. $150 was the swaybars and another $150 was the poly bushing kit. Both just were options my dad wanted. The current price for MustangII suspensions is around 1800 for the "economy" set. Again nothing wrong with the MII but my money only goes so far.
So for around $650 you have a rolling chassis with an 8.8 (Factory 4.10 gears) IFS and decent brakes. The Ranger chassis isn't for everyone but I think you will see an increase in rodders using S10 & ranger frames for a few reasons.
1.) The costs for MII has not gone down as some predicted
2.) 80s & 90s trucks are extremely affordable and offer modern IFS
3.) If you get a whole truck you can use not only the frame but the steering column, brakes, brake booster, even the engines & transmissions. (i.e. the Chevy 4.3L)
4.) Both frames offer V8 conversion kits relatively cheap.
5.) Mustangs and Rangers have more interchagable parts than most think. Same with the S10s and mid-size chevy
6.)The width is dead on for a ton of cars/trucks from the 30s 40s & 50s
7.) Cutting and splicing these frames isn't anymore difficult then a front clip swap.
I'm convinced that if rodders back then had these availble they would have used them. Afterall people went as far as adapting corvair front ends before the MII existed.

41ford1 or anyone with some insight:

I just started looking to restore my late father's 56 Ford F100 SWB and I need some advice. I want a modern suspension due to the comforts and accessibility to parts, but I do not want this project to cause more work than is necessary. If I were to use a S-10 frame, which one would I need... long bed, shortbed, extended cab???.... I am more intersted in using the S-10 due to the fact that I'd like to go with a 350 Chev. as well as the other reasons staed above.
What type of mods. and how difficult are they for the novice to figure out in order to use the s-10 frame? My concern is seeing the "dip" in the frame and I'm not sure how to make the cab and body align once on the new frame.
I've seen plenty of info. on the Volare, Mustang II, etc., but I'm worried about an older frame being cut on and then locating parts later!
If someone could "push me over the edge" one way or the other, it'd be great as well as educating me in general

rankinflash,
Here is some info I hope can help you. Despite what you read and hear this swap is not that difficult and only slightly more work than a front clip swap.
If I were you I would look for either a std. cab long bed (117.9) or a Extended cab (121?). The short beds will wok but it will be alot more fabrication.
Basically decide on your wheelbase and cut the S10 frame to fit. The S10 frames fit together like a sleeve. Grind the factory welds out, cut your frame, square it up and re-weld it. After that you either cut the old body mounts off the F100 frame and weld them on the S10 frame or fab up your own. That is very quick overview.
As far as the dip/ cab bed alignment you have two options: raise the cab mounts so the cab sits higher off the frame but algins with the bed -OR-
raise the floor of the bed. Kind of like channeling it or making it shallower. It all depends on your preference. If the bed floor is shot raising that will be less work than fabbing new mounts.
Nothing wrong with MustangII or volare clips either but you won't get a MII as cheap as S10 in most instances. However you WILL invest more sweat equity in the S10 frame. Volare swaps are good but they are also not fabrication free.
With the S10 you are in for alot of work. alot of figuring, head scratching, and a little bit of trial and error. I am halfway thru my 41 ford swap and so far I am very happy. It is not as bad as people make it out to be. So far I have about $200 for everything and about 10 hours of time. This week I will be welding on the body mounts and putting the body on.

I won't try to talk you into something but consider this:
I'm not much more than a novice myself and I can do it. The whole frame swap has cost me $200 and I plan on a cushion of 200 more just to be sure. So $400(most likely a lot less) and I've got reliable IFS, New brakes, good steering, and a 20 year old frame.
Most of the horror stories you see and hear about are related to people cobbling things together to get a cheap IFS. I've seen just as many MII & camaro clips cobbled just because they weren't planned out too. I guess you could find enough info either for or against this depending where you look.
Know what your limits are but don't be afraid to think things out and go for it. Besides alot of the questions can be answered right here on this site. That will save you some trial an error in the long run!

Thanks for the insight and advice. I think I'm gonna give it a shot. Did you fab new mounts or cut off the old ones? If you can send some picts. if you don't mind. (rankinflash@yahoo.com)

I'll get photos up soon.....if I can figure it out.
For the 48 ford PU we re-used most of the body mounts and raised the bed up a few inches.

For my 41 for I am fabbing new body mounts because most of my frame was trashed by the previous owners.

One other tip, try to get as much of the truck as possible. Get the steering shaft, brake booster, and brake pedal. Also save the skinny bed mounts on the S10 for reuse, save the cross member that supports the driveshaft if you get a long bed. This piece can be removed, flipped, and used as a crossmember elsewhere on the frame.

I'll post pics in the next few days, also do a search for S10 swaps because there have been alot of posts/articles.

One last thing, Check this website out:
http://www.geocities.com/lakota_cir...ncer/swap1.html
I found it the other day and it sounds like it might suit you well.