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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2011, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevyshome
ohk....yes I also want a larger tank for traveling some distances.......just getting 150 -175 miles out of a fill up is not enough....and I was thinking of staying with the mechanical pump anyway......also I was hoping that that the tank would accommodate a sending unit for a Dakota in dash type of Cluster gage .....so you had to move the frame cross member somewhat or......the box cross member .....?
every tank they make is custom, i'd email him and ask if it will fit a dakota digital sender.
no, not a box x-member, the rear frame x-member has to move back. just knock out the rivets and weld it in behind the tank. it will hang below the box x-members 3/4''. my truk frame is shortened 6'' so i just boxed a pice of 4'' channel for the rear x-member.

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2011, 11:07 AM
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So i started the install of the clip this past weekend. Now I just need to figure out how I want to box it in. You can see some pics in my journal. Let me know what you think. Thanks for all of the posts and advice on this.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2011, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by wilsonwilson55
So i started the install of the clip this past weekend. Now I just need to figure out how I want to box it in. You can see some pics in my journal. Let me know what you think. Thanks for all of the posts and advice on this.


Very nice..
Look's like you done this before..
If not.... Your sure showing that it can be done right if you take your time..

This is How I would box it... Finish welding everything on the inside,,, The two frames line up pretty close on the inside... I would box the inside first...Once the inside was boxed... I would pie cut the outer new frame and flow it into the old frame... Then weld ever thing on the outside... Then box it.. Then top in bottom... That how I would do it..Hope this help's..
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2011, 02:47 PM
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Very nice..
Look's like you done this before..
If not.... Your sure showing that it can be done right if you take your time..

This is How I would box it... Finish welding everything on the inside,,, The two frames line up pretty close on the inside... I would box the inside first...Once the inside was boxed... I would pie cut the outer new frame and flow it into the old frame... Then weld ever thing on the outside... Then box it.. Then top in bottom... That how I would do it..Hope this help's..
Thanks. Well i do have some help from someone who has more experience with these clip jobs.

The way you are talking about boxing it is what I was thinking too, but instead of cutting it on the side to slope the frame I may run it straight back to the cab mount. I am not sure yet though, I will start with the inside first and go from there. When you boxed yours did you sandblast and paint the inside of the frame(the part which will be enclosed by boxing) first?
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2011, 04:53 PM
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You can shoot some weldable primer inside before you close it up..
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2011, 05:08 PM
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Hi........I believe your lasy few comments were meant for someone else....but I did enjoy reading them as well.......Will
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2011, 05:13 PM
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Hi........I believe your lasy few comments were meant for someone else....but I did enjoy reading them as well.......Will
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Old 12-06-2011, 07:20 AM
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raising chevy engine

Some years ago, I paid a fellow to subframe my 1940 Packard. The subframe was from a 1973 Nova. He did a good job, but the engine mounts ended up being so low that it was not possible to install the crankshaft pulley because it hit the front crossmember. I searched all over to find some sort of spacers to raise the small block up, and there appears to be no such animal in the universe. The closest I came was a kit to fit a Chevy small block in a Jaguar. The spacers that came with the kit were not available separately. The mounts were square tubing welded to the side of the subframe with mount holes drilled through the side. I ended up rolling flat pieces of steel around a piece of pipe that the mount through bolt would fit so that there was a flat strip to mount on top of the square tubing, resulting in a 2" lift for the engine. I brazed the steel and the pipe together. It worked fine, but it didn't look very professional. I did all this because I can't weld. It amazed me that spacers for the most common engine in the world seemed to be something that was never made. Scruffybeast
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2011, 09:57 AM
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Looks like you did your clip almost identical to what I did. Instead of the pie cut on the outside, I used a piece of tubing and extended the frame to the cab mount as you were thinking. I don't know about stronger, but it makes it look finished. My final will be to weld a boxing plate from the inner clip frame to the top of the orig. channel. I figure that's got to be strong enough and it will look finished also. I left the end of the sub open as it's a neat place to run fuel lines and wires to the engine and protect(NHRA) and keep them hidden. Good job and I hope you like the ride height. It's perfect for my pro street look.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2011, 10:15 AM
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I added some new pics of my progress in my journal. Check it out.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2011, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilsonwilson55
I added some new pics of my progress in my journal. Check it out.
Very nice..
That's the way a clip should look when done..
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2011, 11:44 AM
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Very nice..
That's the way a clip should look when done..
Thanks a lot, I'm trying to make it look good.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2011, 11:45 AM
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Does anyone have any good pics of how they modified the front end of the frame to utilize the existing bumper brackets?
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2012, 10:43 AM
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Does anyone have good pics and advice on the rear end? I am using the rear end from the nova and for now sticking with the leaf springs.
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2012, 03:59 PM
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did you know the front spring hangers will move to the rear and actually use some of the bolt holes that the rear hangars used? This will allow you to move the springs under the frame instead of outboard which will let you put a much larger tire under the fender if that is part of what you are thinking about. Using the front spring leaves minus a couple will soften up the ride some and if you box in a "C" notch in the rear frame rails, you can put the rear end on top of the springs instead of under the springs. That will lower the rear about as much as the front will be lowered by the clip. Throw a little money at a narrowed housing/axles and you can have a poor boy pro streeter that looks and handles pretty well. Just something to think about.
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