[ChevySDime385]

Get rid of that damn HEI!! they are junk after 6k-6.5k.

[eloc431962]

Originally Posted by ChevySDime385

Get rid of that damn HEI!! lol Might not be the problem but they are junk after 6k-6.5k.

What year is the motor?

You are right about that he does need to lose the stock distributer. MSD Pro-billit been good to me.
You can do some work to the stock HEI but still won't cut it IMHO.


Cole

[ChevySDime385]

First thing that i bought after I started my build lol. If you dont have plans on hitting higher rpms no worries but HEI's are just ugly haha.

[eloc431962]

Originally Posted by ChevySDime385

If you dont have plans on hitting higher rpms no worries but HEI's are just ugly haha.

X2 on that.



Cole

[ericnova72]

Put me in the "something is still not right" crowd. Torque peak at 4600 rpm is only a little surprising, seems about 2-300 rpm high for that cam, but the HP peak also at 4800 rpm is not kosher. I'd expect a horsepower peak of 55-5800 rpm

Myself, I would still want more spring seat pressure, another 15-20 lbs there. It might not have an outright stutter anymore, but power is still hurting if it quit pulling at 4800 rpm.

The distributor has been mentioned also, that is worth a look. Needs to have a higher rpm than stock capable module, and a better then stock coil if it doesn't already. Put the digital box and Davis coil back on if you haven't already.

[wadedog]

at 4500= 273.5
at 4600 =287.0
at 4700 = 293.0

at 4800 = 294.3

at 4900 = 292.3

at 5000 = 288.9

steady downward
at 5600 = 269.3

the peak torque was 327.6 at 4600

at 5700 = 262.3

6000 =244.1

at 6200 = 223.5

with thedigital box no dist module is used and davis coil is in use.

[Duntov]

Originally Posted by wadedog

at 4500= 273.5
at 4600 =287.0
at 4700 = 293.0

at 4800 = 294.3

at 4900 = 292.3

at 5000 = 288.9

steady downward
at 5600 = 269.3

the peak torque was 327.6 at 4600

at 5700 = 262.3

6000 =244.1

at 6200 = 223.5

with thedigital box no dist module is used and davis coil is in use.

87 octane 350 readings... for now it's not the distributor. Your combo is tried and true and typically produces upwards of 450HP and 450 or more Ftlbs of torque.
What intake do you have?

Last year I had a similar situation. Decided to change out the cam thinking it was a bad grind or something. When I pulled the intake I noticed it had the worst window match I'd ever seen.

It was an Edelbrock performer.. <good manifold but thick lipped and intended for porting. Before I got through with the porting I'd taken about .225" off the top off three of the intake ports on the manifold and close to a hundred off the bottoms of most of them. About a hundred off one side of a couple; kept on and trimmed the head ports and sanded the gaskets a bit to get it real close............

Stayed with my plan and changed out to a lesser cam anyway, <wish now I hadn't. Long story short it went from Jeckel to Hyde. It's one of the strongest 350s in the neighborhood..

Your heads are excellent, have big port windows and need the right intake to get a good window match.. I don't know... I'd like to verify the cam is a 60105lk and not defective in timing or something. Something is bad wrong..
Do you have a dial indicator and degree wheel?

[wadedog]

I have a victor jr intake, they did put on a 4 hole 1" spacer on it now.

I don't have a degree wheel .

the cam was installed straight up and i'm and hoping it is the right cam and not wrong cam in the right box.

[Duntov]

Originally Posted by wadedog

I have a victor jr intake, they did put on a 4 hole 1" spacer on it now.

I don't have a degree wheel .

the cam was installed straight up and i'm and hoping it is the right cam and not wrong cam in the right box.

You know what, my son reminded me earlier that the horsepower readings I got when I ran your combo on my DynoSim are at the flywheel........ At the rear wheels it could be 40% lower.. Does it run strong?

I've built that exact combo before and had it on file. 200 RHS heads, same cam, even had the Victor Jr. Very strong combo. Think it ran in the upper 12s and was still good on the street. Customer did go back to dual plane after he drove it around for a while. Picked up some bottom end for that.

Skip White likes that combo but pushes his PC heads with it.. If you find one of his Pro Comp head listings on Ebay it will have a long page with some various specs You Tube Videos of his ZCar running different combos he builds. One of them is close to yours. May have some ETs to compare..

Maybe it's not as far off as I thought.

[wadedog]

I have no idea what to do, i'm thinking new springs but i'm hearing this is it and the numbers are right.

I don't want to wipe my cam or make a killer reving engine but i want it right and the numbers seem low to me but im not an expert.

[Duntov]

Originally Posted by wadedog

I have no idea what to do, i'm thinking new springs but i'm hearing this is it and the numbers are right.

I don't want to wipe my cam or make a killer reving engine but i want it right and the numbers seem low to me but im not an expert.

probably 20% difference from flywheel to rear wheels is more realistic than 40. Of course it's not really a percentage of loss. A stock 305 should have roughly the same amount of HP loss as a performance built 383 in the same car, which would make the percentage much different. Except the 305 wouldn't have the converter you have..

All that aside, and regardless of what the numbers are.......They don't seem to correspond to the cam grind, and overall combo. The horsepower should be climbing between 4800 and 5700 and should flatten off and hang on to 6300 or so.

It' like it's not breathing right for some reason or other. cam,springs, intake, exhaust, intake port window match....something

at 4500= 273.5
at 4600 =287.0
at 4700 = 293.0

at 4800 = 294.3

at 4900 = 292.3

at 5000 = 288.9

steady downward
at 5600 = 269.3

the peak torque was 327.6 at 4600

at 5700 = 262.3

6000 =244.1

at 6200 = 223.5

[Duntov]

I noticed that Lunati gives it's cam specs for this Voodoo 60105LK based on a 4* advance. I would want to know where absolute TDC it first.. It's rarely where the little gauge says it is on the balancer. A dial indicator set up including some various mounting hardware and a degree wheel kit with piston stop ect would be essential.. Some reading to keep you from being at the mercy of a builder who may or may not have taken time to window match the ports, or another shop who is being paid to figure out what hasn't been done and having to take their word for it.

4* is a lot performance wise..

Dialing in a cam to manufacturers spec is designed to ignore any minor discrepancy in the crank key location or timing gears/chain/index of the rod journal ect. Could be another degree in that...5*s is a bunch.

Time to call Lunati tech help line with your story. I think this link would have the contact info...http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1986&gid=287

[Amigo406]

A member called Techinpstector1 posted a good Isky link in it.
cam degree

[wadedog]

Funny you should bring this up today, I talked again with my new shop and they said they would like to degree the cam and make sure it's instaled correct or even that the cam is correct, they said they have been finding alot of cams in the last few years that have been way off and had to be sent back. they use a cam doctor machine to check everything now before they install it.

They think that there is nothing wrong with my springs and that the dyno would have shown that to them and that stronger springs would only bring the rpm up and the HP would remain the same at the new higher rpm.

They belive there is a problem with low compression or the cam is degreed wrong or wrong cam completely. wrong cam right box.

They have a wall of wallys to show they know what they are doing.
too bad i didn't go to these guys first, it's rough to have them fix whats whats wrong now and costing me alot of money to figure it out.

[wadedog]

I took my car into the shop again and they checked the cam index. and it turned out to be correct .
They think I should be making 50 to 80 more hp than now and that maybe it's through the drivetrain and it might be because of my B&M holeshot 3000 converter and they recommended i try and find a good 3500 to borrow and test with.
They think maybe my converter is too tight and thats why the chassis dyno is showing low numbers and maybe it's not my engine at all.

Does this sound like a good possiblity ?