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Old 07-15-2013, 03:35 PM
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'57 Chevy Truck replacement pedal set

Hi all,

I want to replace my original pedals (the OEM brakes are gone) with a set that will mount to the firewall. I have seen several kits, but I was hoping I could find a brake/gas pedal set out of something else to use as a donor. I can't be the first to do this. I would like to have a firewall mounted Hydrobooster when I am all done. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
John

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Old 07-15-2013, 03:42 PM
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I used the set up out of a 79 chevy truck in a 56 once. Had to build a strong brace under the dash because the firewall flexed too much. Easy to do though. You just need to brace the firewall to the dash in a few places.
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Old 07-15-2013, 04:37 PM
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type into google 57 truck brake peddle sets. they are cheap.
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:24 PM
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why clutter the firewall? my 58 truk has a hydroboost under the floor. no bracing required



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Old 07-15-2013, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogre View Post
why clutter the firewall? my 58 truk has a hydroboost under the floor. no bracing required
Really, really, really sweet. Extraordinary job.
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Old 07-16-2013, 06:00 AM
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Hey guys,

Wow, thanks for the advise! I have not been having luck with Internet forums and usefull information as of late. I will brace the firewall when I chop and section out the cowl. I want to mount the vintage air pack higher under the dash.

Anyway, I love the hydro boost in the stock location. Very clean. But I am not using the original frame for my build. I am looking for a 1994 SWB Chvey to get my frame and running gear. I hope to get 4x4, but that maybe a 2.0 upgrade. I have not purchased the frame yet, I am trying to finish the body work before I buy the frame..... It is hard.

Thanks for the advise!

John
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Old 07-16-2013, 07:12 AM
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Whoa!! Stop right there!!
Body work comes last. After you've done all the mechanical. You'll need to change things as you progress and any body work now is a waste of time. And no paint. You'll chip it for sure. I learned the hard way.
THe one thing you need to watch with a newer frame is the kickup behind the cab. Modern truck frames aren't flat like the 57 is. Box fitment is a big issue.
I used a front frame from that 79 for my front suspension. Joined under the cab with the original frame.
Track width is another factor. OLd trucks where narrow, newer trucks are wider.
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Old 07-16-2013, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RWENUTS View Post
Whoa!! Stop right there!!
Body work comes last. After you've done all the mechanical. You'll need to change things as you progress and any body work now is a waste of time. And no paint. You'll chip it for sure. I learned the hard way.
THe one thing you need to watch with a newer frame is the kickup behind the cab. Modern truck frames aren't flat like the 57 is. Box fitment is a big issue.
I used a front frame from that 79 for my front suspension. Joined under the cab with the original frame.
Track width is another factor. OLd trucks where narrow, newer trucks are wider.
Thanks for the advice. I understand the logic of doing mechanical first, just not how I am going about things.

The truck has been stripped down completely. The old frame is scrapped and the cab has been put on a dolly while the blasting work is being done. After I have all the body work and minor repaired on the cab, I will do the fenders doors and bed panels. Once all of those are blasted, primed, and basic rust/repairs are done, I will work on the cab interior while locating a frame to use.

I am planning on using a 88-94 donor truck or suburban. From that I will use the engine and transmission mostly complete with a few modifications. It will of course be stripped, painted and put back together before I use it, but what I want is OEM driving reliability. I will cut the perches off my old frame to use on the new one. I am aware of the fitment issues academically, but it seems that the 88-94 year range fit with the least issue.

So after I have the frame done and I have figured out how the cab is going back together (windows, trim, dash, seat, shifter, pedals, radio, etc) I will mount it to the frame and then attach all the body panels. Once I am satisfied with the fit and finish, it will all get taken apart and have the final paint put on. Single stage Urethane is the plan for now. I plan to drive the hell out of the truck and I want to be able to do simple paint repairs/modifications as I see fit. I also hope to find a 4x4 frame, but we will just have to see how that comes together.

My 1.0 goal for the truck is to have it painted blue and the cab band and bumpers will be white (Chrome work on 2.0), on a late model frame with OEM fuel injection and an auto transmission, with AC. Once I get that done I can start to customize.

So I am not so much doing all my body work first, as doing everything up to the finishing body work first. Then after I have it all together I will do the final body work pass and disassemble for paint. Seem reasonable?

I am going to look for a set of 70/80's pedals to mount. Does anyone have photos of such an install?

John
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Old 07-16-2013, 11:20 AM
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I wish you luck!
A couple Q's though.
Blasting the sheet metal!
With what?
And your paint choice. Urethane!
Not available up here any more and likely won't be available when you do the final spray. Just sayin'.
And maybe check these guys for a much better brake set up.
http://www.kugelkomponents.com/
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:04 PM
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"Blasting the sheet metal!
With what?"

Play sand! I went round and round with body people on this. Younger body guys were worried about the sand deforming the sheet metal and that I would have to use soda. Older builders suggested that the sheet metal on the older cars and truck have no problem with the sand. This caused me the most delay in the project. Long and short of it, I tested the blaster and sand combination and the metal is more than thick enough to not distort from the sand shrinking the metal. I double filter the sand using window screen, blow at about 110-150psi with a light to medium flow of sand. I was most worried about the roof being the largest span of flat space, but it looks ok.



"And your paint choice. Urethane!
Not available up here any more and likely won't be available when you do the final spray. Just sayin'."

Before I misspeak, I am using a PPG (I think) Urethane single stage paint. It might be Polyurethane, but it is not Acrylic. I am not a paint guy, and am learning as I go on this. Fortunately, I am working out of a shop with a paint and body man on site. He is helping me with my selections Thus far I have only blasted and primed using the etching epoxy primer he suggested. I want to go with something close to Chevy's Indigo Blue in tone.

I also thought that HoK still offered a Urethane paint in Black and Red and polyurethane in many others. I just read that on the website, but we maybe talking about two different things.

Thanks!
John
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