[platinummobile]

does anyone have a schematic for a 4 pin voltage regulator external mount? it has I, A, S, F on the regulator itself. Also the alternator only has two wires coming from it one from the batt side of the alternator that goes to the battery side of the solenoid and the other wire is on the ST of the alternator. The problem that I am having is that there is something drainning the battery. I have unpluged everything inside and nothing in there seems to be the problem. As I am watching my am meter it shows current flow from the batt to the batt side of the key switch. This is all going to a distribution block that was placed in the engine compartment that i don't think belongs there. I have checked the alternator and it is not charging the battery. I am thinking that the voltage regulator is hooked up wrong. Can anyone help me with this? I could take photos if needed. After looking through the other threads the alternator looks like a 1G. I was told that the 2 threaded bolts at the bottom do not conect to anything, and that those were for testing the alternator only. So there are three places to wire the batt which i know goes to the battery side of the solenoid. Then there are the other two.

Thanks!

Eddie

[KULTULZ]

Let me know if the below helps-

http://www.galaxieclub.com/alternator-conversion.html

[platinummobile]

Perfect!!!!!! This is exactly what I was looking for thankyou. Do you know what size that capacitor should be?

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by platinummobile

Do you know what size that capacitor should be?

It is for radio suppression. It will have a FORD ID No. on it. I think the value was also stamped on it. A salvage yard should be a good source.

[platinummobile]

Thanks for all your help Kultulz! I appreciate it. I will start to rewire it now and post results afterwards. I will wire it without the cap for now.

[platinummobile]

That did not work. I took out the alternator and took it to discount and had them check it. It turns out to be bad, it was only pushing out 10 volts. I bought a new one and connected the voltage regulator and alternator per wiring schematic. I was not able to read any voltage coming out of the voltage regultator nor the alternator itself. I also put my am meter to the battery post and the other end to the positive cable and I am still getting a current drain. I tried to connect the voltage regulator the opposite way thinking that might be it but that did not work as well. Any other suggestions? The connections that I have on the alternator are Batt, STA, ground, and one other I think it is FLP or so. On the voltage regulator it has I, A, S, F.

Thanks,

Eddie

[KULTULZ]

Does it appear as a MOTORCRFAT alternator? Do you see any ID Nos. stamped on the front case?

Maybe it is GM or not a 1G as most conversions of this period use? Any chances of a photo?



There are two methods to excite the ALT on a FORD application. Early will have the I circuit running through the ammeter/lamp or it will have a direct connection to the fuse box (ON-OFF with IGN SW). You have to determine which was or will be used and correct the circuitry to reflect the application.

-HOW TO FIX YOUR POWER DRAIN-

[platinummobile]

It looks identical to the 1G to the tee. I will rewire the voltage regulator as I see it on the schematic. I know for sure now the reason is at the voltage regulator, I is not hooked up or it is but wrong. Thankyou. The other thing is that is entire car does not have a fuse box. It seems that the only 2 fuses are coming from the light switch itself. Weird! I will keep checking to see what I find out under the dash. Do you happen to know what size fuse would be sufficient for the alternator to battery. Thanks again for the schematic.

[redlightning]

Here is a link I have in my favorites.I have a 56 Ford.I have not tried it yet but plan to.


http://www.ranchwagon.com/tech/alt/alt.htm

[platinummobile]

Thanks Red. That looks similar to the setup we have here on the 59. Then again most of the parts that we get are looked up under a ranchero wagon.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by platinummobile

The other thing is that is entire car does not have a fuse box. It seems that the only 2 fuses are coming from the light switch itself. Weird! I will keep checking to see what I find out under the dash. Do you happen to know what size fuse would be sufficient for the alternator to battery. Thanks again for the schematic.

Fuses on the early FORDS are in line, no central box. New REG connectors with pigtails are available for the regulator from a large parts jobber.

-1957 To 1965 Wiring Diagrams-

Check the appropriate diagram to see how the I (IGN) circuit is wired. If it goes through an ameter or warning lamp, it needs to be wired in that fashion to excite the ALT (and even for the engine to start). If you wire it off a key ON-OFF source, you will lose the meter/lamp.
The B post fuse is a suggestion, not necessarily needed.

[platinummobile]

Thanks again. I will post results early next week. The wiring inside has been all hacked up and looks like spagetti everywhere.

[platinummobile]

I just received the new harness and installed it. I am now trying to figure out the wiring for the voltage regulator and alternator. I connected everything per schematics that was posted. The one thing that I found strange is that the gen light stays lit without the key in. I must have something connected backwards, it will not crank either. So what I have for connections are from the alternator STA, FLD, and BATT. As for the voltage regulator I have I,A,S, and F, in that order.

The Black/yellow on the schematic should that go to ignition on the key switch? I also have some pictures I took of what I am working with but have no idea how to upload them here.

Thanks,

[platinummobile]

I found what I did wrong and it is working perfect now. I have a 14.4 charge. There is still a small drain and I believe it is coming from the horn relay that is mounted on the inner driver fender.

[KULTULZ]

I should have been more concise. FORD had two methods for wiring the IGN circuit and I am not sure where the production break was (I think 1972). The Black and/or YELLOW wire is BAT feed. IGN (Green Wire) is supplied in two different ways, early production from the IGN SW through a shunt ammeter (light) and to the REG. This allows starting. Later production had the IGN supply circuit coming from the fuse box.

Run the IGN source as shown on the diagram (Wiring Diagrams) through the light to the IGN SW and see if the drain goes away.

QUESTION: How did the harness supplier say how to wire it?