59 P/U roof dents inacessable repairing - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:07 AM
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59 P/U roof dents inacessable repairing

We are trying to come up with a way of raising the dings on the outside circumfrence of this roof,59 Chevy,which if you know is basically inacessable from underneith due to the inner shell covering the majority of it,outside of the center section.

Only way I know of is with a stud gun and slide. Which I'm NOT a repair tech and have limited experience on this type work.So ANY help is appreciated.

I suppose some of the "wire" type deals "could" get in but it would be a heck of a deal working them.

Mike.

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Old 03-03-2005, 08:35 PM
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Mike, most every dent on a roof would have a "Brow" or high spot that nieghbors that dent. First try tapping down on that high spot. How deep are these dents?

Here are a few tips.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>


“Basics of Basics” Dent pulling
By Brian Martin

These are a few tricks to pull a dent out when you have no access to the back. There are a million and one ways to do it, these are just a few. I use these and others all the time, there are few right and wrong ways to get it done, just as long as you can get it done. I made these tips up for those who don’t have a stud welder or other electric style pullers, but you will still need a MIG. They are also used instead of a stud welder if you had one. These methods will pull much thicker metals and or dents that have more resistance to pulling like where you will find body lines. The number 2 method is particularly good for where you have a long body line that is pushed in. You can weld pulling tab right on the body line and gently pull out a long area bringing the line right into shape even on strong metal. The one warning I must give you is that you have to remember that you are MIG welding the tab on. If you pull to hard on the tab or the washer that is welded on, you will tear the metal! If you do, well you will just have weld it up. It is not the end of the world, but you will want to avoid it. I can’t stress this enough, these tips are not for little shallow waves or something. They are for serious low spots, where you must get it up a pretty fair amount, it is not worth it to get a fraction of an inch. They can be used for this, it is true, but it takes a good long while using the methods to get that proficient at it.

After using the “tool” carefully cut the weld thru the middle with a die grinder and 1/32” cut off disc. Then grind the little bit of weld you leave off, it is that easy.

The first (fig 1) is a simple old trick, you weld a large washer to the low spot and either hook some sort of slide hammer to it or using leverage like in the diagram. I usually use constant even pressure with leverage like the diagram for better control. In fact, I seldom use anything like a slide hammer on anything like this because it just doesn’t allow you enough control. In the diagram I have a long pry bar that is stuck into the hole on the washer and laid across a piece of wood. Applying pressure to the back of the bar will pull up on the dent. Apply the pressure and then tap on the high spots (or even level spots) that are right around the low spot, it will usually come up pretty easily.

The second tip (fig 2) is a trick that has worked wonders for me. This trick works so good, I have taught it to many guys in the shop. This method is the method of choice even though we have some very nice equipment for doing such things. It is just perfect with plenty of control and gets the job done fast. I have made up these “taps” for pulling from little pieces of sheet metal. They are about 20 gauge metal and approx. one and a half by three and a half inches. I have welded a few short beads to them on top to hold the Vice grip from sliding off (fig 2b). The tool I use to apply pressure is a “Pogo stick”, an old bodymans tool that has been around for years. They are pretty inexpensive, I think about $100.00. You could make one pretty easy if you wanted to. The chain that comes with a single hook on one end (fig 3) and double hook on the other (similar to fig 4). After the tap is welded on the car and the Vice grip (you’ll notice the one I use has curved jaws and I believe it is for pipe) is attached I just hook the single hook on the front of the Vice Grips where they pivot (fig 5). The Pogo stick has hooks on it (fig 4) where you hook the chain on. I use the bottom hook for more leverage about 99 out of a 100 times. The Pogo stick has a metal “foot” with rubber on it at one end and a bicycle type handle grip at the other.
You put the foot on something solid like the spring perch in this case. Hook the chain on and apply force going down (sometimes up, depending on where you can put the foot) while tapping on the metal surrounding the dent.

Gentle constant pressure is always better than something like a slide hammer. These two methods provide that for you.

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Old 03-03-2005, 09:00 PM
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This may or may not be of help. On hail damage size dings, some of my body techs will take a small butane torch and heat the ding and make it rise up. Again these are hail (small) size dings. They keep the flame tip about an inch or so from the panel and move in a circular motion until the dent rises. Once up they then apply a cold rag to stop the motion. Your 59 has some good metal so I can't tell you if this method will work or not. If your dings are bigger than that do not try this option.

If you do try this and it works, my techs will then file or block(with coarse paper) the high spots this leaves and bondo or prime as needed.

Also,MartinSr's observations are hard to beat.
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Old 03-04-2005, 12:08 AM
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Mike,

Pictures would be a huge help!!!

It's not uncommon to have to make a tool for hard to reach areas. Old leaf spings work great. Heat and bend as necessary. Use it as a dolly and make a good slapper, also from an old leaf spring, and you should be able to work out the dents.

Randy Ferguson
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Old 03-04-2005, 09:22 PM
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You guy's never cease to astound me with your help.

We've been busy ready'ing the bracket car for this Sunday,1st. race of the year. Sorry I haven't got back to you.

We have not got to the roof as of yet.We are replacing the lower back cab corners as well as the step well's. Along with various rusted spots as the cab is up on a 4' high stand for this. As for pic's Randy.It's in white epoxy now and pic's are a little tough getting a true perspective with them.

The top is in remarkable shape considering it's age.
Most all the "problems" are mostly crease's, and a few circular dings.
I'll know more after some guide and sanding.

Brian, I always enjoy using cheap tools readly avil. from the kids.
I'm serious,I HATE having to buy a tool when a viable alturnative is LAYING in my backyard rusting away.
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Old 03-04-2005, 09:52 PM
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Cab Corners

Hey I couldn't help notice your cab corners.. I need to do that with my '50 chev. What are they held in place by in your pics?

thanks

Dan
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Old 03-04-2005, 10:06 PM
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They are butt weld clips from Harbor. Like $5.00 for a set.
I wish they were a little thinner as it's quite a gap to fill and you can burn thru quite easy.

'Course,I don't know what I'm doing anyway.
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