I am in the process of ordering upgraded parts for the carbs you suggested and that are listed on page 17 of the manual but have run into a glitch. The manual says I need: (Step-up Piston Springs - 5" (orange, stock); Needle & Seat assemblies - .110"
(#1466).
More than anything how many of each of these items do I need. I know nothing about these carbs. i.e. how many metering rods are in one carb??? Stuff like that!!!!

search for the edelbrock tuning/service parts on Summitracing.com

For the blower application without boost referenced eddy carbs you want to install the stiffest power piston springs available.

If/when you change to the .110" high flow needle seat assemblys you ahve to mess with the float height spec a bit to get it just right.
The key is to get he fuel pressure regulated properly to 5psi to 6psi at idle.
Edelbrock carbs do not like high fuel pressure but need plenty of fuel system flow capacity (volume).
if the fuel system cannot keep up with the engines WOT fuel flow demand the engine will go lean and burn up.

Start your tuning with the stock out of the box default carb jetting/rods for the 1407 model and work from there.

The model 1407 carb is the one to use for blower aplications.

I'm currently running twin holley 750dp blower carbs with 8.5 p.v.'s on my 6-71 sbc, and have no complaints. In fact... they work great! no start-up issues or any other probs to speak of. I don't have to wait for it to warm up to hit the gas, even when I fire it up in the high 30s (been cold here the last couple days!) No backfire or popping at all. I do have the 'blower surge' some people speak badly about though, after it runs for a few minutes. So do most of the other blown cars I've heard around here, and on u-tube. Plugs look good, no fouling problems... yet! Not to mention the fact that I like that surging sound!! So far... so good! Knock on woooood!

I have almost the same setup on my SBC and it works the same. Cold start at 32 deg and it just sat there purring away. We took off and drove up to the gas station and filled up and came back. We let it run for over 1/2 hour while we went over the timing and carb adjustments. It never over heated or got the headers red hot. It runs at 1000 rpm in Park and 700 rpm in gear. We let it idle for 10 minuted to simulate getting caught in traffic and it didn't go rich or lean. The AFR stayed right at 12.5 the whole time. We then took it out for the daily cruise for 3-4 hours. Runs great. Gotta love those 750 dp's.

Oh yes there is no Detroit roll at all...ever. I like it this way. Each to their own.

Here is a link to the 1466 listing at Summit. You need one needle & seat set per carb. You need two primary jets, two secondary jets and two rods per carb. The orange springs (two) are the ones that come in the stock carb, so you don't necessarily need to order different springs unless you want to follow F-BIRD's advice to go with the stiffest springs available. I'm running the orange springs with no issues.

The Edelbrock carbs are going to cost you power. They can also be a hassle to deal with on blown applications. If you just want the truck to run decent and don't care about performance then you might be happy.

I think you started chasing your tail with the Holleys and ended up getting off the trail. They are easy to tune and are very blower friendly. I understand your frustration, but would hate to see you spend money on the new carbs and still have issues. Your Holleys only need a few parts to make them right. You could buy main bodies and metering blocks for cheaper than two new Edelbrocks.

There is nothing wrong with surging as long as the engine runs good. My car surges when the engine warms up. I have tuned it out before and I lost some throttle response. It runs the best when it surges. I also like the sound, so I don't see a need to make other adjustemnts to get rid of it.