Grant209

Your situation is a little different than hotwheels55 since his carburetor wasn't calibrated for the type of engine he was using it on, and it would not perform properly from the start. Once he made the calibration changes we suggested he was able to get it to perform the way he was wanting it to. Since your carburetor worked fine at one point we know that the sizing, and type of carburetor is OK. A carburetor can not change it's calibration on it's own so something must have changed. We'd recommend going through making sure everything is clean, and restarting from there. If you're still having problems at that point please contact our technical department directly at (706) 864-8544 or www.barrygrant.com


Hotwheels55

Hope everything is still working well on your combo, and thanks for all the support.


tm454

If you'll go to our web site www.barrygrant.com and e-mail our technical department a complete list of all your engine, and driveline specifications we can let you know if we have something that is going to work properly on your stroker motor.

check your power valve.

Your Power Valve should be OK since the Road Demon Jr. Carburetors have built in blow out protection.

Thanks alot im in the works of trying that right now....

Grant209

If you're still having problems after that please contact us directly, and let us know. We can go over some other options at that point. www.barrygrant.com or (706) 864-8544.

I'm suspicious of "first it ran fine, then it's flooding'..i concur with dirt problems, also, might have a burr on a float valve, or the base of the float valve has partially unscrewed (giving you a gas feed to fuel bowl at all times). How about floats dragging on sides of carb or floats partially full of fuel? A stuck "power piston" (vacuum enrichment valve on old Rochesters) can do this too. The power piston bypasses the main jet on those rochesters - fuel metering is done by other passages in the carb.. I"ve only been into a q jet once..but seem to recall 2 vacuum pistons near the center (next to the metering rods) May be similar enrichment technique to single barrel Rochesters used on 230 cid chevy sixes. I had one vehicle with rust in tank.. ended up with a glass filter ahead of stock one. Finally got all the dirt out. Good Luck

i just talked to one of my buddys that was there when i fired my engine and hes telling me that it was running a little rich from the beginning....but i know for sure it wasnt running rough....me personally dont remember so who knows....i going to be cleaning and playing with the carb this saturday and if the problem continues i will contact you guys soon....thank alot for the help

Another thing occurred to me: If you're running PCV, the valve may not be the proper one for carb/engine. The air leak is calibrated for that. Also if it's partially clogged or hose is pinched, low air flow will cause rich running. Carb is calibrated for PCV air leak, so removing PCV on car set up for it will cause quite rich mixture. Cheers..good luck

This may sound dumb, but check to see that your choke is opening all the way. The stupid little things can get you sometimes. Had the same problem on my truck. Don't know how the choke got so rich (maybe the spring wore out after a while), but no more clouds of black smoke and fouled plugs.

Thanks alot from all the people that helped me out on this thread.....I barely started working on my engine this past week due to all the rain....I took the carb off the engine and pulled it apart changed a few gaskets because a few were tore up sprayed 2 cans of carb cleaner all through the carb....put it back together and mounted to the engine....cranked the engine a few times to get gas to the carb then hit the gas and it fired right up and idled smooth....it still runs a little rich still but not as much as before....im not even gonna worry about it right now because im changing the cam real soon and im sure it will change how rich or how lean it will run....But Thanks for all the Help
Grant

Are you running a pvc valve and valve cover vents? I don't think its an overcarb issue,especially since it worked before. All oil will eventually get gas in it if its not vented out.

I have one of those crome pcv caps on it but it not hooked up to anything right now....what would be the best pcv to run?
grant

You should get one for,lets say,a 1970 chev 3/4 ton 350,or so. Whichever side of the motor you choose to put it on,have a filtered vent on the opposite side so your pulling the vapor from one side to the other,make sure your hose is hooked to a large port,either off the carb,or off the manifold,and be sure your pvc has a baffle under it or you will suck oil into the manifold. If your valve covers don't have baffles,you can buy baffled breather caps that will do the job. hope that helps.

i have baffled valve covers already and i have one baffled breather cap and i think the pcv cap i have is baffled too so all i have to do is run a hose to the carb....
Thanks
Grant

Grant

Glad to hear you got everything working OK. If you're still having problems getting it dialed in once you install the new cam please let us know. www.barrygrant.com