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If you want the idiot light to work, you probably want to hook it up as standard 3 wire GM alternator (usually a 10si or 12si).
Large Red wire - BAT terminal, (charge) runs to battery positive. Usually 8-10 gauge (depends on alternator output) with a fusible link White wire (maybe brown) - #1 terminal in two wire plug - Turns alternator on; run to ignition switched power, usually through either a charge/idiot light or a resistor Small Red wire - #2 terminal in two wire plug - Sense wire that makes the alternator output adjust. You can jump it to the BAT terminal and it will work, but if you run it up to your main wire junction it will be more accurate in sensing the real voltage drop across the harness. More accurate sensing will give you more consistent voltage under load. Bruce |
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63 ford conversion to alternator
on this line of thinking, i am doing same thing but have a flamethrower system ignitor and coil. does anybody know if you can burn out your ignitor if you hotwire it?
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