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Old 08-26-2007, 10:20 AM
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64.5 mustang 429/460 swap

i contimplating putting a big block in my mustang. it was an original 6 banger auto matic car so im not ruining anything. it currently has a 331 with the same c4, 3500 stall and ford 8inch. i know im going to have to put a m2 front under it. i have a big in big out top loader from a 66 fairlane gta that i plan on running behind the big block. not sure if anyone had done this but im sure there are a few out there and i would like to get some pictures from them and a lil tech help.
im no new guy to engine swaps or fabrication. i have 4 rangers with small blocks. one with a 514 thunder bird irs.
any and all help would be great.

thanks
greaser

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Old 08-26-2007, 11:36 AM
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well, I saw a '63 Falcon with a MII front end, and a twin turbo 460, fit decent, that's the same chassie as a '65 mustang. I'm a 6cyl guy tho, I'm the person who would pull the mild 302 and re- convert the car to 6cyl, with a wild built 6cyl. I'v put 4k into my 6, for my '67 Falcon.
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Old 08-26-2007, 12:52 PM
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if you do it, when you are done, 90% of the car will be re-designed and/or replaced.....lots of hours and $$$$$...the unibody was designed based on 100hp (and it is alot weaker now from age and use)

alot cheaper and easier to go find a 68'-70' which is designed to handle a big block and use over the counter heavy duty parts

if ya just want to go fast....stick a NOS kit on the 331
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Old 08-27-2007, 02:32 AM
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the 331 does have nos. i have the edlebrook performer kit with performer rpm 250 shot jets in it. im just tired of having another old mustang with a sb and a automatic. im not worried about the fab work the piont of the build is to have something not anybody else has and in my (bakersfield,ca) nobody has. when i was dragging every wednesday nights at sears point my buddy had a white 64 falcon with a 460 and a c4 and that car hauled ***. i know its going to take alot of work but im willing and able. as for the newer mustang i have a 67 fastback with a 396ci cleveland but i want more wow factor. i mean hell the camero guys have big blocks why cant i.
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Old 08-27-2007, 02:59 AM
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There is no reason you can't have it. As mentioned, the sheet metal is going to have to be reinforced. Torque boxes, connectors. Apron reinforcements (1968 1/2 CJ style) if you keep them (I would over MUST II changeover).

Study the THUNDERBOLT modifications. A 460 and C4 would be a heavy street hitter.
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Old 08-27-2007, 08:42 AM
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you cant keep the aprons in the first gen mustangs. i could barely fit my 351w inthere with headers let alone a 460. it has to be m2'd
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Old 08-27-2007, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gfbgreaser289

you cant keep the aprons in the first gen mustangs. i could barely fit my 351w inthere with headers let alone a 460. it has to be m2'd
No, you cut the spring towers back and plate them. It's your choice.
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Old 08-27-2007, 11:55 AM
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oh i didnt know that. but thats still to much of a hack job. i want it to look clean and not just thrown in there. going to do it right once. i have build many 4wd trucks and i have one 85 ford ranger shortbed with a 514 in it with a top loader. now that i had to hack the fire wall move it back 8 inches and a bunch of other stuff to get it to fit. if i can do that i can do this mustang thing easy
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Old 08-27-2007, 01:27 PM
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and once you have removed the shock towers....you have to convert to Mustang II.....as long as your cutting, remove the radiator support....20x17 radiator ain't gona work and likely you will need to move it forward and/or cut the firewall
....like I said....90% will be new fab and/or parts

Merv Rego at Classic Creations (Mustang restore) here in Lakeland did build one last year...

if you want different....his build is a full tilt booogie IHRA Mountain Motor and the 66' coupe body is customized to a Mustang STATION WAGON!.....all done very nice...interior and exterior
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Old 08-31-2007, 09:41 PM
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I personally think its pointless to go to the work of putting a MII in it. I personally would put a coil over setup it the front such as a global west or total control. and then just re do the stock shock towers. even with the stock coil springs there is room to cut them and plate them. The unibody frame rails weren't really designed to support having a MII setup. the use the inner fenders/shock towers/fire wall to tie the front end together. But thats just what I would do
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Old 09-01-2007, 06:48 AM
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here's some more install info on the 514 cube Merv did....about half way down the page

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techar...d_headers.html

and a motor pic'

footnote: that intake in the pic' was way too tall, had to use a flat 460 intake to have a hood scoop low enough to see driving....then the carb required a air box made to fill the whole inside area of the scoop hooked to a snorkle so it can breath...."everything" was a challenge/pia
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Old 09-01-2007, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comet boy

I personally think its pointless to go to the work of putting a MII in it. I personally would put a coil over setup it the front such as a global west or total control. and then just re do the stock shock towers. even with the stock coil springs there is room to cut them and plate them. The unibody frame rails weren't really designed to support having a MII setup. the use the inner fenders/shock towers/fire wall to tie the front end together. But thats just what I would do
The proper kit/method will still use the aprons as vital components;

-ROD and CUSTOM MOTORSPORTS-

As with any serious HP upgrade, remember frame connectors and reinforcing the torque boxes. Now you have to admit that is clean.

Below is an apron modification with 427 SOHC so there is plenty of room for a 429/460.

Last thumbnail shows reinforcing the aprons off the firewall.
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Old 10-17-2007, 10:07 PM
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I know this is an old thread, but I'd like to throw my $.02 in.

Aside from the bay width issues (MII vs Coil Over), etc... Both blocks are really tall. you'll have to sit them low in the bay and run a cowl hood, like 80's ugly tall.

You can do it, but it will require lots of fab. Have fun.. do it if you want!

Oh add torque boxes all round and sub-frame connectors.
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