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Old 06-24-2012, 05:30 PM
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64 olds rad boil/dragging drum/ batt HOT

hey guys, so i have a 1964 olds f85, 330 with 2speed auto. im having trouble with the rad/overflow, boiling after it heats up, and i mean boiling over like crazy out the cap. i removed the thermo. and and water through thermo housing and through the rad. untill it came out clean. im lost. also my batt is acting very strange. my termials are so hot that i cant even touch them. the neg and the pos. idk....any ideas would help. i also have 4wheel drum brakes and both front brakes are draggin...dont know if that would cause the motor to work to hard and make for the boiling water.....just a thought

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Old 06-24-2012, 05:49 PM
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Sounds like the front wheel cylinders are rusted and are stuck , holding the brake on.It will work the engine harder when it pulls against the brake all the time.Jack up the car, if the wheels wont turn , open the bleeder. If the brakes release, the hoses are bad as they are blocked. They will need replaced.If not, go to the next step.
Pull off the front drums and have a friend step on the brake to see if the wheel cylinders are moving in and out. If they move out and stay,or if they are stuck and dont move, replace them. Spring kits are cheap, so if they are rusted bad replace them too.
Being you have the thermostat out, look in the radiator while the engine is running to dtermine that the water pump is circulating water.
IIRC that pump has a stamped steel impeller, and if it had water only or weak antifreeze for while, it could have rusted to pieces and it wont pump water if the impeller is rusted away.
Be sure the fan blade is not on backwards, that is a rookie mistake, and will cause an overheating condition, at least at lower speeds , say 30 MPH or less. Fan blades arent needed when going fastre than 35 or so as the airflow through the radiator from the car moving along is sufficient to cool the coolant in the radiator.
Battery terminals being hot could be from the alternator charging very high amounts of current, could be the battery was dead and you just jumped it off and drove it? Or there is a big short somewhere, like a bad diode in the alternator. Just a thought. you need to check the charging system to see if it is charging a lot of amperage. Could also be the cables picking up some of the heat from the engine under the hood.Copper wire conducts electricity as well as it does heat you know.
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Old 06-24-2012, 06:15 PM
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well i pulled the front wheel off, and beat the drum with a hammer a lil bit. it let go and it spun freely. then i got in and pushed the break once, then the wheel was once again almost locked. and as far as the impellers, i have no idea what that is. but there was ALOT of crap in the rad/ thermo housing. it was all rusty in there. its weird because after i flushed it clean i drove to the store and it was boiling over or anything, but it did on the way home. i think that the alt. might be over charging but ill have to check on monday. dont know if that will narrow it down for ya, i appreciate the help man
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Old 06-24-2012, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91camaro91
well i pulled the front wheel off, and beat the drum with a hammer a lil bit. it let go and it spun freely. then i got in and pushed the break once, then the wheel was once again almost locked. and as far as the impellers, i have no idea what that is. but there was ALOT of crap in the rad/ thermo housing. it was all rusty in there. its weird because after i flushed it clean i drove to the store and it was boiling over or anything, but it did on the way home. i think that the alt. might be over charging but ill have to check on monday. dont know if that will narrow it down for ya, i appreciate the help man
Sounds like rusted frozen wheel cylinders.
and in the radiator ...That much rust? Hmmmm, better think about pulling off the water pump and looking for missing impellers(teeth kinda)
Simple to check for overcharging, just put a voltmeter on the battery terminals with engine running, it should be about 14.2-14.4 volts. Anything higher is overcharging. Good luck 64 is a cool year for GM A bodys.
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91camaro91
hey guys, so i have a 1964 olds f85, 330 with 2speed auto. im having trouble with the rad/overflow, boiling after it heats up, and i mean boiling over like crazy out the cap. i removed the thermo. and and water through thermo housing and through the rad. untill it came out clean. im lost. also my batt is acting very strange. my termials are so hot that i cant even touch them. the neg and the pos. idk....any ideas would help. i also have 4wheel drum brakes and both front brakes are draggin...dont know if that would cause the motor to work to hard and make for the boiling water.....just a thought
Ayuh,... When dealin' with Electricity, Resistance = Heat,...

Yer battery terminals, 'n/ or the wires are corroded, or junk...

Clean 'em to Shiny metal Clean...
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:25 AM
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working out of town all week so i cant mess with it but as far as the batt. there brand new connectors and the posts are spotless. ill deff check the volt. when i get home on friday, and pull the water pump too. whats the standard procedure for a rusted frozen wheel cylinder?
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Old 06-25-2012, 06:15 AM
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Standard procedure here is to replace defective brake parts..And that is often the case on a older car to do a complete brake job..

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Old 06-25-2012, 01:21 PM
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Rusty chunks of metal from the impeller, lodged near the thermostat, can also have travelled to the radiator core and plugged some of the radiator tubes. If the overheating continues, You might want to consider a back-flush or a re-core.

PatM
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Old 06-25-2012, 03:56 PM
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Is your radiator cap new, and of the right pressure?

When you fill the radiator, how full are you filling it. Older cars(prior to 71-72) didnt have overflow jugs, so you have to leave about 3 inches open at the top of the radiator. The origianal radiator would have a mark on the outside of the tank..."Fill to this level". If you over fill the radiator it will puke out the excess because there is no room for expansion.
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:38 PM
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New wheel cylinders are only about $7-$8 ea, so go for new. Might as well get all 4 also, as the others will go soon!
It sounds like you need to pull the radiator and have it flushed out. While it's out flush the engine also, and make sure the T stat is out when you flush. Check the impeller on your water pump by pulling it off. If I remember right the '64 Olds pump is visable when the pump is removed, so problems will be obvious.
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:02 PM
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rad, cap isnt all rust or anything so im gonna assume its new, ish....it says 7lbs on it. i dont know ANYTHING about breaks, so ill youtube how to swap out the cylinders, and ill pull the water pump off and have a look at it, also, the only way i know to flush a rad. is to run the flush additive through it whiles its on and runing, so how do i flush it while the rad. is out, and when yall say flush the engine, do you mean use the motor flush additive through it? or something else? sorry if i sound dumb..my first car this old, lol
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:27 PM
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i hope my waterpump is ok because a remaned one is 100 bucks....that sux.
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:49 PM
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Who gave you that price. 100 bucks is kinda salty.
Check NAPA. Believe it or not they will probably have abetter price.
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:31 PM
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64 330 water pump is a one year only pump, so it will be more expensive.
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Old 07-01-2012, 11:57 AM
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ok so brand new alt. brand new volt. reg...new belt. pulled water pump and it was in PERFECT condition. flushed thecoolent system till it ran clean, burped the system. still boiling.....im lost....i dont belive it head gasket because it dosnt start to boil for about 10-15min. new thermostat, and rad. cap also...break was a shot wheel cylinder. so i just need help with the boiling coolent system. im so lost here..... used the hose and rank through the thermo. houseing till it ran clear, ran through both sides of the water holes with water pump off till it was clean, ran through rad. till it was clean.ran nice and easy in and out of all holes.... HELP! lol
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