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Old 09-18-2013, 08:48 PM
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'65 289 push rod bent

I bought a '65 Fairlane that has a bent push rod. I'm going to take the intake off & check out the lifters,cam & other push rods. The question I have: can I just mark the position of the distributor & pull it out or is it absolutely necessary to get the #1 cyl. up?

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Old 09-18-2013, 08:59 PM
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ive marked it but remember mark the location of the base and the rotor so when you drop it both mark have to match
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Old 09-18-2013, 09:03 PM
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You could reinstall it and be relatively close, timing won't be spot on, providing you don't rotate the motor at all. It's so simple to get #1 at TDC on compression, just put your finger over the plug hole, you'll feel it pushing air as it comes up, then watch the timing mark for TDC.
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Old 09-18-2013, 09:03 PM
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If I were going to do this, I would mark the position of the distributor on the intake, AND remove the distributor cap and take note of where the rotor is pointing. Then it would be safe to remove it.

On install you might have to use a long screw driver to slightly rotate the oil pump shaft so the distributor gear can nestle in it with the rotor pointing the right way.

Even when you are done you would be very smart to get a timing light and retime the sucker.
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Old 09-19-2013, 07:06 AM
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Pull the plugs - it's simple on that engine. Find #1 cylinder wire in the cap, mark the distributor at that position with a Sharpie or similar. Loosen the distributor (1/2" wrench). Using a 15/16" socket(usually) rotate the engine in the direction of tightening a fastener using the harmonic balancer bolt so that the rotor lines up with that #1 mark. Double check that it's on TDC at the harmonic balancer timing marks - and yes, you can rotate it backwards with the plugs out without loosening the bolt torque as long as you don't yank the ratchet. Pull the distributor. Note that the rotor rotates a bit CCW when you pull that distributor out. To reinstall, hopefully you have noted how far that rotor moved and plunk it in place. To check, rotate the engine 2 complete revolutions and back to the '0' mark on the harmonic balancer, again with that socket on that balancer bolt. You should be close to that mark on the distributor housing. If off a 1/4" (or more), you pull the dist. back out and rotate it so it drops in the next tooth. IMPORTANT:Now, what makes a Ford 'interesting' is that you cannot rotate that oil pump drive shaft with a screw driver to allow the distributor to fully seat, you need to hold the distributor down and rotate, again, using that harmonic balancer bolt - unless you want to use the starting motor. Once the mark on the housing and balancer are in the 'zero' position, you will need to reset the timing (7-9 degrees normally on a SB Ford). If you have 'lost' the start point, then the thumb over the #1 spark plug hole and the '0' point on the balancer is your new beginning

Very easy to do this, just take your time

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Old 09-19-2013, 08:28 AM
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bent pushrod.

What caused the bent pushrod ? usually not the cam and lifters. did the engine have a stuck valve or ingest a part that jammed and bent a valve ? fords use a hex oil pump drive shaft. usually easy to drop the dist over the shaft with a small movement of the rotor
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Old 09-19-2013, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale View Post
What caused the bent pushrod ? usually not the cam and lifters. did the engine have a stuck valve or ingest a part that jammed and bent a valve ? fords use a hex oil pump drive shaft. usually easy to drop the dist over the shaft with a small movement of the rotor
I agree with Tim, probably best to check that valve and pull the heads, just to be sure. If you just replace the bent push rod there's a chance the valve may break off at the tulip and put a hole in the piston. Better safe than sorry!
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Old 09-19-2013, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by timothale View Post
What caused the bent pushrod ? usually not the cam and lifters. did the engine have a stuck valve or ingest a part that jammed and bent a valve ? fords use a hex oil pump drive shaft. usually easy to drop the dist over the shaft with a small movement of the rotor
I'm not sure. The guy I was buying it from said he was driving it & it started losing power & when he stopped, it was running hot, so I just had it towed to the house. When we finally got it cranked, it was easy to hear that it was more than just "running hot". When we took off the valve cover , the front left rocker was completely loose. The push rod was bent so bad that we couldn't get hold of it without using needle nose pliers to pull it up. We're going to tear into in Saturday & see what it looks like. From what we have seen, there may also be a couple of the other push rods bent. Who knows I'm already thinking about just replacing the motor, rather than spending time/money on a motor I don't know anything about.
byw...the "we" is not guy I bought it from...I've tried to call him, but got the "phone no longer in service". Seems pretty obvious from the noise we heard as soon as we cranked it, that he had to know it was more than "just running hot".
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Old 09-19-2013, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swagoneer View Post
I bought a '65 Fairlane that has a bent push rod. I'm going to take the intake off & check out the lifters,cam & other push rods. The question I have: can I just mark the position of the distributor & pull it out or is it absolutely necessary to get the #1 cyl. up?
You don't have to remove the distributor on a Ford to take the intake off, its not necessary.
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Old 09-20-2013, 09:38 AM
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There are a number of things that can cause a bent pushrod, and not mean anything internally is wrong with the valves, etc. It can be as simple as someone not keeping the valves adjusted properly, and a loose adjustment let the pushrod slip out of place and bend as the cam came up on it's lobe.
I would check the rocker arm studs to ensure they are seated fully, and also check valve travel on any affected valves where a pushrod bent to ensure they move in their guides. A tool can be easily made or cheaply purchased to fit the rocker arm stud, and then compress the valve stem to see that it moves up and down with normal pressure.
If everything checks out, then you can simply replace the bent pushrods and set the lash properly, with correct preload, and it should be fine. As mentioned previously, you don't need to pull the distributor to remove the intake on a SBF engine.
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Old 09-20-2013, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by CNC-Dude View Post
You don't have to remove the distributor on a Ford to take the intake off, its not necessary.
Maybe - it depends on how close to the firewall plus the amount of claptrap and linkages. It's a lot easier to just yank that dist. out instead of fighting your way around it. Good grief, what's the big freakin' deal about pulling a distributor out of any car equipped with one.

Ford has, depending on the year, a couple different kinds of rocker arm studs - ones that allow you to adjust preload (these are smooth, i.e. Chebbie type) then there is one that you just run the nut down and torque and hope you have .010 to .030 lifter preload. My guess is that this vintage 289 is the adjustable version. Also, these can be over tightened, bottoming the lifter out and then you have a bent pushrod. Also, since the studs are pressed in (and not really that tightly) thay can pull out some, losing the pushrod to rocker fit - and then, bent pushrods. Then that Nylock nut - they wear out and loosen,
push rods pop out of the rocker - and guess what, another bent pushrod
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Old 09-20-2013, 06:04 PM
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Maybe - it depends on how close to the firewall plus the amount of claptrap and linkages. It's a lot easier to just yank that dist. out instead of fighting your way around it. Good grief, what's the big freakin' deal about pulling a distributor out of any car equipped with one.
Don't get your tidy whiteys in too big a knot. I didn't see anyone saying that pulling a distributor was a big deal?
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Old 09-20-2013, 10:14 PM
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Well the OP was obviously not very well knowledgable about the process or he wouldn't have asked about it. So if you have to ask, then you don't know and can cause more problems than you need to. So just keep the parts removal to a minimum if your unsure. Plus its in a Fairlane, he has plenty of room to do it.
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Old 09-21-2013, 06:34 AM
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The OP hasnt been back, yet. I suspect he will be.
The pushrod mostlikely got bent from a valve that stuck in a guide as a result of being run while overheating. Everyone agree?
And after what he said about the seller and the other "sounds" it was making , he needs a motor.
To the OP- you can rebuild the 289, but it is a small displacement.
If you plan on using it, you'll need to tear it down and have the block magnafluxed (checked for cracks as it was overheated).
AlsoEvery surface will need checked, like valve guides,crank journals,cylinder bores...
It will likely need bored as it was overheated and that results in galling of the cylinder walls. Excessive heat burns the oil film from the cylinders and you get metal to metal contact. That results in gouging or "gauling" of the walls.
Also the excessive heat affects valve guides the same way,it gauls them and valves can stick, after which they get a kiss from the piston and the weakest link- the pushrod - gets bent.
If it were me I would Go look for another good used motor. Be sure to hear it run or buy from a reputable person or business. Good luck.
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Old 09-21-2013, 08:59 AM
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The OP hasnt been back, yet. I suspect he will be.
The pushrod mostlikely got bent from a valve that stuck in a guide as a result of being run while overheating. Everyone agree?
.
No. I can't agree. It might be caused from a sticky or stuck valve, but there are several other things that I've encountered with bent pushrods that didn't involve a sticky valve, so I can't agree.
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