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Old 07-17-2005, 09:09 AM
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65 chevy to 74 frame?

I have a 65 chevy pu and a 74 I wanna use most of the stuff on the 74 for the 65. do u think it would be easier to swap bodies and take the 65 body and put it on the 74. Will it work? what problems would I run into and what about the vin # will it mess that up? Thanks for the advice in advance please let me know what u think. Has anyone done this? If u have let me know what to do and the problems u ran into.

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Old 07-17-2005, 10:09 AM
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Frame swap

IMHO, it's best to leave your '65 on the original frame.

The 65 has a wheelbase of 127", while the '74 is 131"

If it's power steering, disc brakes, and 5-stud wheels that you're after ...
the front suspension clip from your '74 is "almost" a bolt-on as I mentioned in my reply yesterday ... see my project journal. Many suppliers have a power steering conversion kit that will allow you to swap the P/S box fom the '74. Here's a link to Classic Performance Products step-by-step installation
http://www.classicperform.com/power6066.htm

I think your '65 has an 8.875" (12-bolt cover) rear axle, (probably 3.73 or 4.11 ratio) which is quite likely the same as the '74 ... except that the '74 probably has taller (numerically smaller ... i.e. 3.00 to 3.50?) gears.

If you're happy with the rear coil suspension, I'd leave the diff housing where it is, and order some "conversion" axles. The '65 axles are slightly shorter (30-1/2") versus the 74's (31-5/16")

These guys make the conversion axles ... see page 17
http://superioraxle.com/pdffolder/su...atalog2004.pdf

I'm planning the same with my 66 GMC, but haven't got that far yet... give me another month or 2 (or 3 or 4) ???

HTH,
Don
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Old 07-17-2005, 09:25 PM
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Your 1974 truck is a 3/4 ton -- corrections

Hi Brian...

I've discovered, by reading some of your previous posts, that your 1974 truck is a 3/4 ton.

That changes everything ...
1.) The front clip would still bolt in, but you'd have 8-bolt disc rotors ... not what I'd want on mine!
2.) You could still use the P/S box.
3.) I'm not 100% sure, but I would expect that the power brake booster and master cylinder would be a mismatch for 1/2 ton brake calipers.
4.) The 3/4 ton rear diff is not an 8.875, so swapping gears will not be possible. You say that your diff in the 65 is a posi? If so, I envy you! Why would you want to change it? It should handle a mild 350/400 I would think. I hope so, because I'm hoping to use it with a (450 HP?) 454 ... after converting it to posi.

If I were you, I'd look for another 73-80 (or even up to 87 I think) 1/2 ton without an engine or trans. You could buy something like that for about $200 around here. That is unless you really want to keep the original 6-bolt wheels. I might be wrong, but I think Chevy/GMC 1/2 tons did have 6-bolt disc rotors for a couple of years... 70 to 72? Those trucks were pretty popular though, so unless it's a total write-off, you'll have to pay quite a bit more for a "parts truck"

They DO sell 6-lug disk brake conversion kits (front AND rear) to fit the 65, but they're around $800 - $900 per axle (brothers has them) ... too rich for my blood. That's why I'm swapping out to 5-bolt ... cheaper, and custom wheels are more plentiful / less expensive as well.

Don
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Old 07-18-2005, 05:15 PM
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thanks for the advice I think I'm gonna do that i like my posi but my drive shaft going into the rear axle is kinda loose I think its the gears not sure but I can grab the driveshaft and move it in and out alittle from the rear axle. Not sure what to do about it. any ideas?
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Old 07-18-2005, 08:24 PM
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End Play...

You should have a real close look to see exactly where that end play is coming from. Are there any "howling" sounds and/or vibration? If so, when ... on acceleration, deceleration, or cruise?

Try removing the driveshaft from the pinion yoke and see if you can move the yoke in and out and/or up and down ... You shouldn't be able to, as the yoke is used (usually along with shims and a crush sleeve) to provide the correct amount of bearing pre-load. If this is loose it means that the pinion bearings are shot, and that you should replace them ASAP!

If you end up having to replace these bearings, you'll have to replace the crush sleeve as well. Have a good look at the differential side bearings,spider and axle side gears, etc. I'd get a bottle of gear marking compound (eg.Permatex Prussian Blue) and check to make sure that the crown and pinion gears are in proper alignment too.

If everything is OK there, inspect the rest of the driveline for loose u-joints as well as the driveshaft center support bearing.

If you're going to change the crown & pinion to a numerically lower ratio (i.e. 3.08), be aware that there are 2 different differential cases used... see page 27 of that Superior Axle Catalog that I mentioned in the previous post.

Do you know the ratio of your diff? If you don't you can determine it by counting the number of teeth on the crown gear and dividing it by the number of teeth on the pinion.

My truck, I determined yesterday, has 41/11 = 3.727272... (3.73) All of the internal componets look really good, too! I had changed the diff oil at around 40,000 miles (still only 70,000 on this truck) and installed "Red Ram" gear oil ... which seems to be as good as they claimed. I'll likely re-bearing the whole thing anyway when I find a posi ... then it should be good for another 100,000 miles!

Oh yeah ... one more thing, speaking of diff oil. If yours is a posi, make sure that the oil you put back in includes a friction modifier. Some brands / formulas include it and some don't. (I believe that anything with a GL-5 spec does ... but check the label.) If you can't find a formulation that does include the friction modifier, you can put in standard 80W90 gear oil as long as you add the additive to it. Ford for sure, and likely GM and Chysler sell the additive seperately... really stinky stuff!
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Old 07-19-2005, 12:06 AM
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Thanks again. I just ran into a problem today with it. i had to tow my truck to another spot and as I was towing it the tie rod broke or something because the driver side tire turns inward and wont stay strait when I move it I guess I'll have to replace the front end but I wanted to do that anyways and put disc in I thought I could pull the front end off another car and stick in what would u recommend?
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Old 07-19-2005, 12:08 AM
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I thought about swaping to 5 lug but I got a set of 6 lug slotted mags already and I wanna use them so I think I'm gonna stick with the 6
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Old 07-19-2005, 07:46 AM
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Front-end swap

Well, it sounds like you're going to have to either find one of those 70-72 (?) 1/2-ton trucks with 6-bolt rotors or order the $800 disc brake conversion kit from Brothers.

Some of the newer (73-?) 4x4's also used a 6-bolt wheel, but I doubt that the rotors from them would fit on your hubs (or 73-?) 2WD hubs. It wouldn't hurt to take some measurements, though ... you say that your buddy has a scrap yard.

Toyota trucks (4x4's?) also have the same(?) 6-lug pattern ... have a look at thier spindle/hub setup ... ya never know!

If you can't find anything to measure, PM (Private Message) me and I'll do a little research for you in my parts catalogs at work. I think that all of those dimensions are in NAPA's Drum & Rotor Specifications guide, which also gives you minimum thickness (throw-away) specs when turning drums / rotors.

Of course another possibility is to try to sell your 6-hole mags, and replace them with some 5-hole ones. The 6-hole ones are harder to come by, so they should be worth more ... you may even come out money ahead! Like I said before ... your wheel choices are better and cheaper with the 5-hole pattern.
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Old 07-27-2005, 05:47 PM
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I just saw a 78 1/2 ton chevy 5 lug for sale 500 buck obo I just might get that for parts
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