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Old 02-12-2007, 05:57 AM
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65 elcamino disc swap problems

its been in my shop for a month now, and im sick of looking at it. id love to get it back to its owner....

anyway, i purchased the classic performance parts four wheel disc brake swap kit, with master and power booster. after fighting to get it all in, the car wont stop. i'm using all the standard parts, no big brake upgrade or anything else. just the basic four wheel kit.
what its doing is having a good, hard pedal with the motor off. then you fire it up, and have to pump the pedal. on the first stroke, it goes to the floor. second, good and firm, though still wont stop the car from a ten mile an hour roll. it should at least lock the wheel on gravel at that speed, but it wont. the pedal continues to act the same no matter what.

i have bled the system at least ten times. turned the calipers this way and that while bleeding. bench bled the master. two man bled them. vaccuum bled them. gravity bled them. and i still cant get it to work.

before i started this, i checked the vacuum at the vaccuum advance port on the distributor. 15 inches.

im at a loss on this. what the heck is it, and how do i fix it????

please advise.
michael

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Old 02-12-2007, 06:05 AM
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The rear Seville calipers must be adjusted prior to bleeding.
(they say you can do it after--but I couldn't get it)
Not too hard to do but may take some patience.
CPP has instructions on doing so on their web site---however there are typos that give the wrong instructions to the right caliper.

simply--caliper adjusting screw needs to be adjusted to where the e-brake lever just barely clears the rear stop.

took a long time to get mine adjusted right--had a bad caliper.
when the caliper was replaced---only took 10 minutes.

Bryan
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Old 02-12-2007, 02:48 PM
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ok, so why wouldnt the fronts lock up either?

also, very hard pedal. very hard.... vacuum too low?

Michael
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Old 02-12-2007, 03:15 PM
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CPP claims 18" vacuum is needed for the boosters to work properly.
I have some issues as well-----Big Block crate motor is only giving about 8" at idle, but will get up to 18 @ cruise.

Could be that by the time the proporting valve trips you are out of travel.
or the valve is out of position.

Usually, a couple of quick stabs on the pedal will re-center the valve.

FYI----E-brake use on a regular basis is required to keep the Seville calipers in adjustment.

If you are not using the calipers with the E-Brake, you may need a 2lb check valve inline with the rear brake line.

Another thing you may want to check (and this should have been done @ CPP), is the brake booster rod to the master cyl. If you have a deep bore master cylinder piston, there should be a long bolt with a locknut screwed
into the booster to master rod. A shallow bore piston should have a short bolt screwed into this rod (with blue loctite).

Hope some of this helps

Bryan
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Old 02-12-2007, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan59EC
CPP claims 18" vacuum is needed for the boosters to work properly. Bryan
that's pretty bad. use a tandem 8" off a S10 and be happy at 11" Hg
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Old 02-13-2007, 05:34 AM
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thanks for the help so far. another question:
i had two holes on the brake pedal to choose from, one that was previously used for the manual drum brakes, and an unused about two inches lower. i used the unused. could that be vcausing any problems?

the car should be coming back to the shop on the flatbed this week. its been at my employees barn while i finished a few other cars. only so much room in the shop at one point....

Michael
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Old 02-13-2007, 06:14 AM
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S/B the lower hole

The hole may need to be drilled out to at least 3/8"


[{that's pretty bad. use a tandem 8" off a S10 and be happy at 11" Hg}
scarebird]


On my 59----a 7" booster is the largest I can use.
Currently less than 1" between booster and valve cover
1/8" between booster and clutch master.
Could not use a mechanical clutch due to space & cast iron headers.
This car was not designed with the GenVI 454 in mind.

now that the 7" dual diaphram is available----I might give that a try.

Bryan
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Old 02-13-2007, 09:46 AM
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nothing wrong with manual disc either....
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Old 02-13-2007, 05:16 PM
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ok, i think the procedure i will try is as follows:

adjust the rear calipers according to the classicperform website.
install vacuum canister
tweak carb for hight vaccum
try it again
check master to booster rod length
bleed master on bench agin
bleed system again
try it again

so, anything basic i should check and do other than this?

Michael
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Old 02-13-2007, 05:22 PM
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That should get it

And I am bad---should need no check valve in the rear line---sorry
Dunno what I was thinking
Bryan
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