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Check your taiil light sockets first........chances are thats where your short is. If you can unplug the rear harness, I think there is a connector in the trunk, that would tell you if thats where it is shorting.
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Ontario Rodders |
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Doc here,
If it has trailer plug for lighting, that's another good source of shorts.... If it has one, Disconnect the parallel wires and try to re~fuse it..If it stays look at the hitch wiring. Did you add anything NEW electrical wise? If so go there and look at the job.. have you done recent work around the harness anywhere? another place to check! Doc
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Aftermarket Solutions Electronic & Electrical Innovations |
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Is there any way I can use my electrical tester to check for shorts?I been having problems with something draing the power from my battery when the car is turned off.How can I tell by looking at all the wires and harnesses?
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Quote:
Depends on what you have for an "Electrical Tester" .. If it's a DVOM, set it for amps, auto-range (or highest setting, and pull the negative cable from the battery, put the meter probes between the battery cable and the battery posts and read the draw (be sure the dome, hood and trunk lamps are off) Draw should be no more than 0.03 to 0.08 on the meter..If you get more you have something stuck on.. If your car is computer operated, has a CD player with memory presets and a mechanical clock, these readings will apply..if you have NONE of these, you will show 000... To save time if you get a draw, unhook the alternator, big red wire, and plug, and remeasure, If the readings fall within spec, you have a bad diode / Regulator pack in the alternator, replace them, Kit about $15 bucks(or if you feel it is above your skill level) replace the alternator. starting about $30 bucks. If that does not drop the draw you have a circuit pulling power.. pull the fuses one by one until the draw goes away, then troubleshoot that circuit. find the draw and remove/repair it. The main causes of power draw in "OFF" other than alternator. are: Glove box lamps stuck on, hood lamps, trunk lamps, vanity mirror lamps, power antenna stuck in down drive , horn relay (horn shorted with horn disconnected) any obscure lamp you know of on the vehicle that does not require the key to activate, Power amps wired incorrectly, any accessory added to the "hot at all times" buss. Don't overlook the possibility that the battery may be shot..charge it for 10 hours at 6 amps then get a load test..do this first..a bad cell will drop off overnight too. Doc
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Aftermarket Solutions Electronic & Electrical Innovations |
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Hey Doc,I know this is an old post but I am just getting around to fixing the problem now and I went back to look at your response.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/innov...spagenameZWDVW here is a picture of what my electrical tester looks like for my car.This is an auction someone is running on eBay and this is the best picture I could find to compare my tester to.What settings should I set it on when running these tests?Also,do I use the red wir or the black wire on the tester?Thanks,
Eazy |
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Doc here,
![]() To Amp Test , put your probes in the sockets marked DCA, I think these are the ones I lettered. Set your scale to DCA X10 amps (the yellow setting) and note the readings..If those are under an amp, then rotate the switch to DCMA (the blue scale) To Check for Volts, move the probe not marked DCA/VDC to the COM terminal (black probe) set your meter for DC volts, (where it is in the picture now) and test, red to positive, Black to negative. For Ohms, no probe movement is needed, Set your scale for the Omega symbol, or the horseshoe looking symbol in white. Refer to your instruction book for the rest, but this will get your testing done. Doc
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Aftermarket Solutions Electronic & Electrical Innovations |
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