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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-22-2005, 06:25 PM
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Rambler 327-287 heads 62cc (measured with acowsyringe) head gasket thickness 0.015
deckheight 9.994
Piston comp. distance 1.9375 weight (66 4 barrel) 23.4 oz
Crank throw 1.625 crank pin dia. specs 2.2483-2.2490
rod length 6.375 weight 27.6 oz. base width 0.995
Pontiac Rod length 6.625 weight 30.7 oz. base width 0.994
Crank pin dia. (within .002 of ramblers) 2.250
Chevy 327 piston 1.672 comp. distance
Pontiac rod+327piston weight=52.3oz (51.05 for rambler piston + rod)
So....If you take a Pontiac rod, bushing it for a 327 piston pin(chevy), that will get you down to 0.072 bellow the deck height, and makes it easier to find rod bearings! This looked good on paper but I never made it past thatstage
Most specs came off of Complete book of engines no. 2 1966(?) issue.
So will it actually spin in the block without the rod hitting anything I know not.
Just another idea to be entertained!

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-26-2005, 09:33 PM
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got my nitro yesterday

My 125 horse single stage nitrous kit came in yesterday got to install it will keep you all informed on how well it doe's
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2006, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grem
Rambler 327-287 heads 62cc (measured with acowsyringe) head gasket thickness 0.015
deckheight 9.994
Piston comp. distance 1.9375 weight (66 4 barrel) 23.4 oz
Crank throw 1.625 crank pin dia. specs 2.2483-2.2490
rod length 6.375 weight 27.6 oz. base width 0.995
Pontiac Rod length 6.625 weight 30.7 oz. base width 0.994
Crank pin dia. (within .002 of ramblers) 2.250
Chevy 327 piston 1.672 comp. distance
Pontiac rod+327piston weight=52.3oz (51.05 for rambler piston + rod)
So....If you take a Pontiac rod, bushing it for a 327 piston pin(chevy), that will get you down to 0.072 bellow the deck height, and makes it easier to find rod bearings! This looked good on paper but I never made it past thatstage
Most specs came off of Complete book of engines no. 2 1966(?) issue.
So will it actually spin in the block without the rod hitting anything I know not.
Just another idea to be entertained!
Along those lines....
can someone tell me if this would work?
Would Chrysler 392 pistons work in the 327? The 392 has a bore of 4.0 (same as 327), with pistons available in the typical .03-.06 range. The compression height is 1.955 compared to 1.9375 for the HIGH compression 9.7:1 327 piston- or a difference of .0175 (closer to deck). The wrist pin diameter is .930 for the AMC, and .984 for the 392 pistonhttp://www.flatlanderracing.com/ross_392hemi.html

The 392 pistons available include Ross forged (-22 cc head volume) and Keith Black hypers dome (-22 cc head volume , -14cc head volume, or +4 cc's.) compared to the flat AMC's. I am not especially proficient yet in translating that into compression ratio, but I'm assuming its pretty high. However flat tops or dished 392 pistons should work. For those wondering, the reason to consider this is that there are no other pistons available for this engine other than low compression cast pistons.

Will this work and what would the approximate CR be for -22 pistons vs +4's.

Or am I way off base.

Any help would be appreciated.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2006, 04:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farna
If it's a stick it's an old Borg Warner pattern on the back of the bell. A T-10 will fit, as well as most 60s and early 70s Jeep and truck transmissions. Nothing slick shifting though. An AMC car bell will fit a T-10 if the Jeep bell won't. AMC used a T-85 and T-89 three speed, and the T-10 behind that engine. All three transmissions use the same pattern to bolt to the bell. A T-10 is nothing but a T-85 or T-89 (I forget which, but the 89 is strongest) with fourth replacing reverse, and reverse built into the tailshaft.
I am relying on some dusty memory, so here goes...

I had a 65 Ambassador wagon when I was a teenager. It originally had a 287 in it when it was the family truckster. The nylon timing gear teeth put an end to that engine so my dad found a Jeep 327 to put in it. It had the 270 hp option 4 bbl manifold and factory installed Holley 600. After I drove it for about a year, I blew up the T85 3 speed. That was motivation to find a 66 Marlin T10 donor. I got a T10 but it would not fit the T85 bell housing. I forget why, but seem to remember the pilot shaft on the T10 was longer. Had to drive the 280 mile round trip a second time to get the bell off the donor. I have fond memories of driving that Rambler to the tune of 130 mph a couple times. Once was right next to a 440 Charger on the San Bernadino Frwy in 73. Back in the 69 when the engine was built and installed, Mickey Thompson made a modified grind cam for that engine which my dad used. The only other thing that was not stock was the heavier Jeep clutch and pressure plate and dual 2" exhaust. Those were the days...
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 12-26-2006, 03:58 PM
Jeep's speed
 
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thanks for the info

sounds like that was a fast rambler my jeep only does about 90 and thats almost at redline cause of the gear ratio which is 4.10 . I'd love to have a 66' marlin there like the javlin's with there own style . I love to be differen't nobody expect's my ol jeep to take e'm off the line at a red light it's fun . my 327 is a 250 hp 2 barrel i changed it to a 780 dual line double pumper holley and put custom 3" dual exaust with 40 series flow's on it . i'm having trouble finding a wether stripping kit for it though any input will be greatly appreciated.
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Old 12-27-2006, 08:13 AM
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Good to hear there are some old Rambler 327s pulling heavy steel around!

The 60's FSJs had different weatherstriping than the 70s and newer. If you don't mind newer style, BJs Offroad has them here:
http://www.bjsoffroad.com/cartgenie/...sp?category=11
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2006, 09:10 AM
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The Borg Warner autos are much maligned for no good reason. They need to be maintained like any other mechanical thing, and second hand Ramblers were usually on the bottom of the list in the late 60s and 70s -- cheap cars to drive until they wouldn't go. Why maintain something like that? Another problem is putting to much power into a light duty trans. The M-4x (40, 42, etc. -- M is for "model") was used behind the 304. It's comparable to a stock 998. Six cylinders used M-3x models, comparable to light duty 904s. The M-4x series is AIR COOLED from the factory. The torque converter has a "fan" made onto it(doesn't look like a fan) and a large hole in the right side. There's also a sheet-metal cover on the front of the bell. Remove the cover and the fan won't work because air flow is all messed up. Then the trans overheats and won't last long. Most of the 3x and 4x series also uses a TV cable similar to the 700R4. This MUST be used, and MUST move freely! If not, there won't be enough pressure at higher speeds and the trans will slip a little, which builds up heat, which kills the tranny.

The good thing about the M-4x is that there is a connection for an external cooler. There are two plugs in the right side of the trans, one near the front, one near the back. The front one is a feed off the return from the torque converter just before the oil is dumped back to the pan. The rear one just dumps into the casing. An external cooler will increase the life of the trans dramatically! Unfortunately the M-3x has no external cooler provision and can't be modified for it. There is a plug or two on the side, but they are pressure test points.

The cast iron models are heavy-duty and all have external coolers. The M-8 (used in early to mid 60s) uses a TV cable, the M-10/11/12 use vacuum modulators.

The first thing to do with one of these trannys is to change the fluid and filter then have the bands adjusted. Band adjustment is similar to an FMX (because the FMX is a derivative of the B-W -- won't get into history now!), so if a shop is familiar with an FMX they can do the work. It's a simple torque wrench adjustment, but one of them needs a special tool, and one is accessible from the outside, the other requires dropping the pan (I forget which though -- front or rear). A trans "tune-up" should incorporate band adjustment and fluid/filter change (or cleaning the intake screen on early models without throw-away filters).

AMC NEVER used an FMX. The rebuild kit for the FMX and later model AMC trannys is the same, as all the normal wear parts -- bands and clutches. The case, valve body, and half the other moving hard parts inside are FMX or B-W specific though. Some moving hard parts supposedly interchange, but I'm not sure which. Because the rebuild kit is the same, most people assume the trans is an FMX. the kit has multiple gaskets where there are differences, like the valve body to trans gasket, and I think the pan gasket is different (might not be though).

I got the T-85 (a heavy duty six cylinder trans) confused with the T-86 (the V-8 trans) in an earlier post. The V-8 bell is deeper than the six cylinder bell, so the T-85 would have had to short an input shaft. Should be T-86 instead of T-89, and the T-10 is a four speed version of the T-86.

Anyway, human memory isn't the best storage media! I have all this info in hard copy at home if someone needs anything on Rambler/AMC/and some Jeep vehicles!
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2006, 09:27 AM
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Check out my photo album for one way to replace the torque tube! The other easy way is ladder bars, 30" or longer, or better yet adapt a G-body truck -arm kit from Hot Rods to Hell (they call it a center-drive kit). That's the ultimate, bar the Jaguar IRS. The IRS is a bit costlier due to the Jag axle cost, but not any harder to put in. A couple people have used leaf springs, but that's harder than ladder bars and really doesn't ride much better. Short leafs (Mustang II, Gremlin should work) are needed and must be upgraded for the heavier weight of the cars involved.
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