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Old 08-07-2006, 07:47 AM
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66 chevy pickup start up problems

I have a 66 chevy pickup which i have been driving for about a year, it always worked fine until a few days ago when it developed this problem. When I put the key in the ignition and turn it, the engine starts up fine. But when I let go of the key the engine stops running. The only way to keep the engine running is by turning and holding the key. How do I fix this?
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Old 08-07-2006, 01:18 PM
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Either the ignition switch is ng or or the secondary ignition wire (the resistor wire) is broken or disconnected.

More info would be helpful, like what kind of dist and stuff like that
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Old 08-07-2006, 05:46 PM
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Doc here,

The primary ignition is loosing power somewhere between the ignition switch and the coil + terminal..

To Check, get out your DVOM, set for DCV, V X 50 , or autorange, put the red probe on the Ignition Switch side of the resistor, with the Coil + side disconnected (If NOT HEI) , the black probe on a good ground..and turn the key on, to "run" only..It should read around 12 volts..

If you have that, the switch is good..AND the wire is whole in-between it and the ballast resistor.If not back track power to the Ignition switch "Hot In run" terminal..(it may be the ign Sw itself..)

If power is good, hook up the + side of the coil..to the Ballast resistor (if NOT HEI) and jump/short or close the points to ground (I.E. load the coil..)..measure the + side of the coil..It should read 6 to 9 volts if the ballast resistor is whole..If not check/replace the resistor, or coil itself..

To test the system, simply place a jumper from the positive battery cable and coil + terminal and start the car..If it continues to run after you relax the "Start" function, you have narrowed it down to the "Hot In Run" wire or primary ignition circuit..(you will have to pull the jumper to stop the engine..it bypasses the Ignition switch.)

In short, it may be the switch has gone bad, or the coil power wire may be open, or the ballast resistor may be open.

We assume, as always, you Already have checked and eliminated the connections at the battery, engine & Body grounds
and those proved good.

Doc
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Old 08-07-2006, 05:51 PM
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Or like posted you have a broken wire some place in the ignition.

Years ago I bought a '57 BelAir 2-ddor Sedan (a real one, not a dressed up 210 Sedan) with a 235 6 cylinder that purred like a kitten.

I had this "Hold the key all the way to start or the engine died" problem. A jumper wire from the ballast resistor to the coil I believe it was solved the problem until I could do a more permanent fix.
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Old 08-07-2006, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rj57
Or like posted you have a broken wire some place in the ignition.

Years ago I bought a '57 BelAir 2-ddor Sedan (a real one, not a dressed up 210 Sedan) with a 235 6 cylinder that purred like a kitten.

I had this "Hold the key all the way to start or the engine died" problem. A jumper wire from the ballast resistor to the coil I believe it was solved the problem until I could do a more permanent fix.

Doc here,

The Trick here is:

Don't do this too awfully long , or you can damage the points and / or Coil as well..Points will burn and pit..and the coil will run very hot at a full 12 volts with no ballast..

But it is a very good "Limp Home" Feature!

Doc
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