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hey guys, i am currently restoring a 66 mustang, and i wanted to improve the ride quality. My question is, does anyone know if simply replacing the factory springs and struts, and so on, with new aftermarket components would make for a better ride. or should i look into spending alot more money and investing in things such as the coilover units i see advertised. Basically i was looking for a smooth ride without spending an arm and a leg. Not sure if that all came out clearly, but hopefully someone will understand my banter. Thanks in advance. Mike
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Contact mustangsplus in CA, they sell a kit that does what you want, home.pacbell.net/ssixto/automotive/R&P/HowTo.html
<a href="http://home.attbi.com/~dciab/rack.html]and #2[/URL] |
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I also have a 66 and I posted the question about the A arm relocation before I read this post. If I dont do the a arm relocation I am doing the suspension upgrade that mustang plus offers (620 springs poly bushings, 5 leaf mid eye, Koni's). From what I hear that is an excelant set up. I am also going to 15 in Torque Thrust D to complete it.
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a-arm relocation
O.k.....so I have been running on a set of 1 inch lower 620 lb. springs from Maier racing for 10 years. Love them.....but now it is time for a
ball joint overhaul, so while down there, do I try for pushing the envelope more and relocate the a-arms per the shown diagram? I have long seen this around, but will the relocation lower my rig more? I run 15 x 7 magnums, with 235x60-15 tires, and everything fits! But do I relocate the a-arms with the lower stiffer springs, or will it turn into a ground scraper? My rig is a 1969 Mustang coupe. Does the relocation lower the car, or just change the overall suspension attitude? Thank you so much- |
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you will lower the car by about 1/4-1/2 inch, it wont bottom out at all, ive seen people lower them as much as 3 inches, also the top of the tire comes slightly inwards, and thus cleares the fender..
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Similar Questions
I've been looking at the IFS Mustang II suspension, the FatMan CoilOver bolt-on, plus the more simple solutions of either OEM replacement or upgraded kits from Mustang Plus.
My plan is to have 17x7 or even better 17x8 rims all the way around. I know it would include narrowing the rearend, which I have to do already to the 9 inch I have, but what about the front? I see that the IFS kits offered allow for narrowing. Is this to allow for bigger tires, or can I accomplish this some other way? I would rather not cut on the body required by an IFS kit, so if someday I decide I want to go back original, I can. Would love to hear from anyone who has some something similar. Also, of the more drastic kits, IFS and coilover, which one provides you better handling and ride? OR, is there some other kits out that would be better? |
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as far as i know is mustangs plus running 17x8 inch rims on their ronster 65 mustang without narrowing anything. it requires the right offset on the rims, i believe they are running 235/45-17 so if you were to get the right rims with the right offset you could even run 245/35-18 on 18 inch rims (great for cornering but lousy for rīde quality and straight line acceleration (and worse for your bank account))
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do the drop
I did the A-arm drop on my 66 Mustang a few years back when I converted to Monarch discs. At the same time, I added a larger sway bar, put in shorter 620 springs, new balljoints and A-arm bushings and upgraded the rear with heavier 4-leaf springs and 1" lowering blocks. The difference in handling is phenomenal and the reduction in ride quality is minimal. I'd say definitely do the drop.
larryJ |
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This diagram you speak of
Sorry i have a mac and i seem to be having trouble seeing this diagram of the a-arm relocation could some one help me out? Because i plan on upgrading my suspension and would like to do that at the same time.
Now on the note of suspension upgrades...I'm wondering; a friend of mine said that i should simply purchace the new a arms with ball joints and bushings installed already to save myslef the hassle, anyone agree disagree on that one? You all seem to agree on the point that Mustangs Plus has the best/simplest solution to the issue of suspensions. My last quesion if i do this suspension upgrade should i worry about clearance issues with the wheels/tires if i'm doing just fine right now (i.e. will the ride height be adjusted drasically causing wheel rub?) Thanks Sorry i should clear up what i mean by the last part. I plan on replacing all the suspension componenets springs shockes bushings sway bars all that with the Mustangs Plus suspension rebuilt package. Thanks again |
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i've got a 65 stang,my suspension was all messed up so i converted my power to manual so i got brand new steerting componets i cut the springs so it could lower the car 1 inch. i slapped some 17x8 in the front with 225/45/R17 on the rear. i try to put some 235/45/r17 but it rubbed. on the rear i put some17x9 255/50R17 and the the rear fenders where slicing the sidewalls so so i put some air shocks and problem solved...im goin to go with 275/45r17 with rolled fenders........
anybody suggest what i can do to get a better ride control/handling? is getting a 1 inch sway bar and a rear sway worth the money?.........besides getting coil springs.....whats the best next thing i can do for a better handling? thats worth the money from your experiene. thanks jose PS ill try to post a pic on here....i dont really know how, can someone tell me? oh yea i forgot to say i would suggest you get brand new upper A arms aready to install , in my case i was going to just get the ball joints and shaft kit,,,,but it turned out the upper A arm part where you put the shaft was gettin ready to break and that would mess up the aliingment......so if your going to keep the stang forever its best to do it right the 1st time since your there arleady then to come back a year or so later finding out ur a arm is breaking..... Last edited by grover805; 05-26-2004 at 12:24 AM. |
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check www.mustangsplus.com they haev all the parts you need. and yes sway bars are worth it. id say youd need a full polyurethane bushings replace, 620 front coils and a 5 leaf rear sprindg. 1-1/8 inch front sway bar and a 3/4 inch rear bar. and a negative wedge kit (or you can do the shelby lowering yourself) last order of buisness is a quick steer kit
but the best thing you can do for handling, thats definately worth the money is lowering the upper controll arms... price: freebee!! Chuck Cantwell, Shelby American GT 350 project engineer recommended 2 degrees positive caster, 1 degree negative camber and 1/8 " toe in for all years of Shelby Mustangs. You can play with settings for different applications, but it will make a world of dirrefence on over stock (but it will only work on cars with lowered upper controll arms) Last edited by deuce_454; 05-26-2004 at 12:42 AM. |
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Thanks guys you're both a wealth of knowledge. Thanks deuce for the diagram i can't wait to make the mod and see the difference.
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Well i plan on starting my suspension overhaul in about 2 weeks, hopefully (that's if my hydraulic t/o bearing install goes as hoped), so i will make sure to post pics and tips for you guys who are about to try it too.
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