Has Anyone Ever Put Rack And Pinion Into A 66 Thunderbird, Tell Me What Is Needed

I suggest reading this ... first ...

http://crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki...pinion_steering

Deuce ... Moderator

Why do you think you would want a rack on a heavy BIRD?

the front end is wore out and wanders in the road, also will have the engine out soon, just thought would be good thing to do, am i wrong?

You're wrong. The stock suspension in good condition won't (shouldn't) wander. you might want to get a rebuilt steering box as well. Does the 66 'bird use the old hydraulic ram power steering? You can still get rebuild kits for that and it's pretty easy to rebuild -- it's just a hydraulic cylinder and valve assembly, mostly o-rings.

I think by 66 Ford had an integral steering box like GM though. Those are hard for a backyard mechanic to build, just as cheap and much easier to get a rebuilt unit.

I put a rack and pinion on my old Rambler. It was a lot of work to adapt, and it steers no better than the GM power steering box I had on it (AMC bought GM PS boxes from 65 on). No, I wouldn't go through it again. I actually lost a bit of turning radius, and had to make new steering arms to get a decent radius at all. Have to make another set to get the steering radius back. I used a 1991 T-bird PS rack. The arms are much shorter than most standard power or manual steering arms, and Ackerman angle has to be taken into account to get the new arms right. I think your old 'bird has the arms cast as part of the spindle. All Rambler/AMC steering arms bolt off, so at least that was relatively easy to modify.

I guess you didn't read the article provided by Deuce in post 2

First off, anything can be done, BUT...IMO,
You are much better off just rebuilding the stock box.
There are more things to putting a rack in than just making it fit.
Proper steering geometry is dependent on all of the linkage pivot points creating similar arcs of the tie rods, and steering arms.
If you don't have similar arcs, you get bumpsteer.

By the time you buy a power rack that has the inner tie rod placement where it's supposed to be, (which there are probably not many that will be heavy enough to steer that T-bird), make all of the mods to your frame, oil pan,(maybe), steering linkage, and exhaust necessary to physically fit it in. you will be in the job for a ton of time and expense. And if you don't understand anything about steering geometry, you need to get someone who does to help you.

When it is all said and done, you will not realize alot of gain in performance over the stock box, rebuilt.
There is a rebuild company called Durex (this one is not a condom company, ),that will do some little tricks to your stock box to make it tighter and possibly steer quicker.

http://www.durexpowersteering.com/
Later,
mikey

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BE different....ACT normal.

No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example

I learned all that the hard way! But I didn't have anything in the way (like the oil pan) -- making a bracket and installing the rack was easy, getting it to work right (steering geometry) was a PITA!!

about one full Saturday to dis-assemble/clean/paint/remove and replace all to new condition with parts from your local store

strut rod bushings
lower arm bushings
ball joints (ouch! $100 each for 66' bird)
sway bar bushings
shocks
what did I forget?

(Kultulz, correct me on the following if I'm wrong for a 66' bird box....CRS)

your steering box has a plate on top with 3 machine bolts and a slotted rod, loosen the cap bolts and turn the slotted rod with a screw driver, re-tighten bolts....that adjusts the "slop" in the steering wheel......there is a big hex nut where the shaft enters the box, tighten that adjusts "preload" on the steering arm....75%+ chance it has never been adjusted....very often it is the "fix" for the steering box

66' bird is heavy and hard on the box....if you don't want to mess with rebuilding it: rebuilt box from your local store approx $200

Thanx for that mikey...





Good advice here. Try to source MOOG parts.



Just make sure you follow the procedure in the shop manual. Easy to get carried away here. It is best done with the drag link disconnected to get a proper torque applied drag on it, so the adjustment while you have the front end apart will be most helpful.

FORGOT-

Check steering coupling condition and the correct procedure for checking box condition and adjustment will be in the appropriate year FORD shop manual. Save you a whole lot of time and money. I have found both AC DELCO and CARDONE to both offer a good quality rebuilt box.

"what did I forget" (as usual!)

outer tie rod ends (probably)
inner tie rod ends (maybe)
idler arm bushing ( I cheat and use a big washer to take up the slack)
coil spring rubber insulator (make one?)
lower spring mount bushings (?)
re-pack the box with grease

(thanks Kultulz) yes...don't over tighten/adjust the box, I am remembering (thats a joke!) 10ft/lbs max "resistance" on the wheel and 13ft/lbs max "resistance" on the disconnected steering arm.....that's hard to measure so: "just a hair past no slop is plenty"

ps: I feel a little better, found some ball joints for $60...ask if you don't know how to test the uppers....many last about forever

I don't buy at Autozone (hardly) but WOW their site makes parts look up easy!
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...on+%26+Steering

You would re-pack a manual box with grease, not PS...

The ball joints on a BIRD are unique, that's why the high cost.

BIRDS are becoming very popular and you wouldn't want to chop one to install a rack. It would reduce the resell value very badly (IMO).

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There is a great Flairbirds discussion group at Flairbirds-subscribe@yahoogroups.com and they probably can help you with what to do to keep the old front end in tip top shape. They helped me with my 64!

Jim