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Old 01-15-2007, 07:10 AM
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67 Camaro HEI and electric choke question

Hi i have a 67 camaro which i just converted to an hei distributor, and holley with and electric choke. Does anyone know where i can put the hot wire for the HEI, i read that it is supposed to be powered from the fusebox but i don't know which fuse is hot when the key is turned and then during cranking. Can i use the same wire off of the positive side of the coil instead one from the fusebox? I have been reading in the forum and people say to take the ballast resistor off. What is that, where is it, and what does it look like? Where in the fusebox do i rout the electric choke? Thanks for your time,
colin

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Old 01-15-2007, 07:43 AM
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The hot wire will connect to the terminal marked BAT located on the cap. this will only be hot when ithe key is in the run position. I beleive you can use the same hot wire from the original coil but you will need to eliminate the resistor so you receive a full 12 volts to the HEI. Not sure where it is located but I would follow the wires... shouldnt be hard on a 67
do you have a multimeter?...if not, buy one..they are your friends
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Old 01-15-2007, 07:47 AM
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what is the resistor? is it connected to the wire that was on the coil? That wire has a yellow wire and a tan cloth like wire connected to it, is that the resistor?
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Old 01-15-2007, 09:17 AM
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oh boy...Im trying to remember. I converted my 70 chevelle over to HEI but it was a while ago. I dont remember if this resistor is under the dash or up front next to the radiator (called the voltage regualtor) I dont have the vehicle or the wiring schematics in front of me so I cant say what wire is what.
Im sure someone else here knows more than me
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Old 01-15-2007, 09:19 AM
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All right i see what your saying. Yes i went and got the pieces to block that off. Its a square black box next to the radiator right? So now that i have that thing off i can just use the wire that was on the positive side of the coil?
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Old 01-15-2007, 09:50 AM
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Whoa!

The wire that was on your old coil should have been covered with a white cloth-like coating. It will also be silver in color. THAT's the resistor wire from the key. Follow it back through the harness to the fuse block connection on the firewall. (It's where all the engine compartment wires go through to the fuse block located inside the car.) There will be a 3/8" or 7/16" bolt located in the center of this block. Take the bolt out. The block connector can then be wiggled loose from the firewall.

Inside the engine side of the block will be all the spade connectors to the fuses. These connectors can be removed by gently squeezing the edges together and tugging on the respective wires from the other side. Find the wire you traced from the coil and remove it from the block.

You will need another spade clip for the new wire and the connector at the other end for the HEI. Plug the new wire into the block, reassemble the block connector and bolt. Run the new wire to the HEI and you're done.
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Old 01-15-2007, 11:54 AM
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Here are the pictures. the second one is of the block, i think, its the thing right below the brake master cylinder? The random white wire in the picture is the one i put in the HEI so that i can plug it in the appropriate place, its not stock. If not i included a picture of the entire engine so that you could try to point me in the right direction, thanks again,
colin
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Old 01-15-2007, 01:35 PM
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That's it!

You will see that the block is separated into two parts, one left and one right. Each part has two vertical rows of slots for wires. Not all of them are used. The left part is your engine harness and the right one is your lighting/charging harness. They both will come off after you remove the bolt in the center.

According to my Chevy manual, the cloth white wire is in the left part (as viewed in your photo). It should be in the right vertical column, second from the bottom.

Below is a photo of the type wire clips in the block. If you gently squeeze the slender part of the clip (in the side of the block), you should be able to pull the white wire free from the block from the outside. If you want to keep your original harness intact (harnesses are expensive), just tape the white wire back and leave it in place. Then, you will need a clip, as below, to replace the white wire in the block and run the new wire to your HEI. I would use 14ga or 16ga wire. The clip should snap into place in the block.

You should be able to get the clips from an auto parts store.
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Old 01-15-2007, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gilby246

The hot wire will connect to the terminal marked BAT located on the cap. this will only be hot when ithe key is in the run position.

s

If that is true the engine will NEVER start.

The wire must have 12+ volts to it when the key is in the "crank" and the "run" positions.

Obviously no power when in the accessory position, or the off position.

Doing what MI2600 said automatically has it wired correctly.
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Old 01-15-2007, 01:51 PM
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2 similar threads for this. Might be a related problem.


No power...
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Old 01-15-2007, 02:53 PM
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yes these problems are related, they are both on the same car. would they effect each other? you should still be able to get power with the distributor not hooked up right, not starting the car but get power to the accessories?
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Old 01-15-2007, 10:26 PM
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The long answer is yes.
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Old 01-17-2007, 08:13 AM
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so if i am able to get the distributor hooked up and working then i should be able to get power to everything else? Does it complete some sort of electrical circuit from the key to the battery?
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Old 01-17-2007, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colincamaro
so if i am able to get the distributor hooked up and working then i should be able to get power to everything else? Does it complete some sort of electrical circuit from the key to the battery?
NO. The ignition switch closes about 5 circuits. The distributor is only one.
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