67' mustang with 71 cougar 302, temp maxing out after a 10 minute cruise - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2008, 10:25 PM
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Make sure that the temp. sending unit is in the flow of coolant and not situated where an air bubble can form under it.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2008, 06:57 AM
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after 10 minutes or so the thermometer in the rad coolant SHOULD show about 180 if all is well!!!

did you see the coolant flow become a river of fluid across the top of the fins?
indicating that the stat did open at 180, that the pump is working, there is flow thru the rad....

do the same test on a newer different car, to see what the river looks like and know your thermometer is working/calibrated correct...

retest your car, once the stat is open (not before or you will have a mess!!!),,, turn up the idle screw to around 1500 and let it run for 10 minutes with the thermometer in it,,, to confirm the temp stays stable at 180

does the fuel guage read correct???
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Old 10-18-2008, 10:33 AM
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overheating causes

Was this motor a "rebuilt"?

Look at the front of the cylinder heads and find the tabs for the head gaskets. The usual "instant overheat" for an early small block Ford is that one of the head gaskets got put in ""upside down". Actually for this to be correct - one of the gaskets will be "Up" and one will be "Down".

Both head gaskets are usually embossed with the word "Front" - and the only way to get them on in the right direction - one is up and one is down.

Last edited by GREENBIRD56; 10-18-2008 at 11:02 AM.
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Old 10-19-2008, 07:35 AM
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It wasn't rebuilt

Turns out I was wrong about the problem being resolved. At speed the problem has gone away, but if I idle for 15 minutes without moving, it overheats again.

So...I'm thinking airpocket somewhere, or simply, because the shroud isn't there, insufficient airflow, I'm probably just going to buy a large (2,500cfm) electric fan, and bolt it right behind the rad and hopefully the extra 10 amps doesn't overload the stock alternator heh.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2008, 07:41 AM
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I'd bet money on the shroud...........if you can find one. The electric fan will help.
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Old 10-19-2008, 09:22 AM
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a fan with no shroud is only 60-70% effective for pulling air thru the rad at a red light....
(that's why it's fine on the road, air is forced thru)

wait till the new shroud does get there,,,,

what you do need to do next is sort out the ign timing.....
(do you know what the camshaft duration is??? to go withe the rpm intake etc...)

normal timing pointer location is approx 2 oclock facing the motor on the timing cover....
(are you positive there is no pointer anywhere????)
(you can time a motor without a "0*" reference point but it is a PITA!!)
(you can time a motor off any cylinder TDC so look all around the damper for a pointer)

mark the dist body aligned with #1 plug wire terminal....
remove the cap and crank the motor till the rotor points at the mark on the body....
(you are now at #1 TDC)
scotchbrite/brake cleaner the damper from 12 oclock to 3 oclock to find the marks on the damper.....

post back if you found a pointer....
(it's a challenge to explain how to find a true "0" pointer location without all the motor build specifics)

until you know the motor is timed correct, it's "the cart in front of the horse" to solve the cooling balance problem,,,which can be a $0 cooling system fix cost versus $200 electric fan...

Last edited by red65mustang; 10-19-2008 at 09:38 AM.
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Old 10-30-2008, 09:45 AM
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Did you ever resolve your overheating(?) problem? One of your posts said the cooking thermometer in the rad cap never got hot. This would mean that the water is not circulating through the system (thermostat still closed or water pump not pumping).

Did you ever get water flowing through the rad or verify the temp gauge was accurate?

You could also verify the intake temperature with a non-contact infrared thermometer.

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