67' mustang with 71 cougar 302, temp maxing out after a 10 minute cruise - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2008, 10:25 PM
Member
 
Last wiki edit: Wiring diagram 1953 Chevrolet
Last journal entry: Spare Tire Dent Removal
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: a little S/E of Nome
Posts: 789
Wiki Edits: 647

Thanks: 6
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Make sure that the temp. sending unit is in the flow of coolant and not situated where an air bubble can form under it.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2008, 06:57 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Lakeland FL
Age: 65
Posts: 4,110
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
after 10 minutes or so the thermometer in the rad coolant SHOULD show about 180 if all is well!!!

did you see the coolant flow become a river of fluid across the top of the fins?
indicating that the stat did open at 180, that the pump is working, there is flow thru the rad....

do the same test on a newer different car, to see what the river looks like and know your thermometer is working/calibrated correct...

retest your car, once the stat is open (not before or you will have a mess!!!),,, turn up the idle screw to around 1500 and let it run for 10 minutes with the thermometer in it,,, to confirm the temp stays stable at 180

does the fuel guage read correct???
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2008, 10:33 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 86
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
overheating causes

Was this motor a "rebuilt"?

Look at the front of the cylinder heads and find the tabs for the head gaskets. The usual "instant overheat" for an early small block Ford is that one of the head gaskets got put in ""upside down". Actually for this to be correct - one of the gaskets will be "Up" and one will be "Down".

Both head gaskets are usually embossed with the word "Front" - and the only way to get them on in the right direction - one is up and one is down.

Last edited by GREENBIRD56; 10-18-2008 at 11:02 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #19 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2008, 07:35 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 25
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
It wasn't rebuilt

Turns out I was wrong about the problem being resolved. At speed the problem has gone away, but if I idle for 15 minutes without moving, it overheats again.

So...I'm thinking airpocket somewhere, or simply, because the shroud isn't there, insufficient airflow, I'm probably just going to buy a large (2,500cfm) electric fan, and bolt it right behind the rad and hopefully the extra 10 amps doesn't overload the stock alternator heh.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #20 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2008, 07:41 AM
poncho62's Avatar
Out of the Loop Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Streetbeasts links
Last journal entry: at car show
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Hanover, Ontario, Canada
Age: 62
Posts: 16,857
Wiki Edits: 5

Thanks: 20
Thanked 246 Times in 200 Posts
I'd bet money on the shroud...........if you can find one. The electric fan will help.
__________________
Ontario Rodders
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2008, 09:22 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Lakeland FL
Age: 65
Posts: 4,110
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
a fan with no shroud is only 60-70% effective for pulling air thru the rad at a red light....
(that's why it's fine on the road, air is forced thru)

wait till the new shroud does get there,,,,

what you do need to do next is sort out the ign timing.....
(do you know what the camshaft duration is??? to go withe the rpm intake etc...)

normal timing pointer location is approx 2 oclock facing the motor on the timing cover....
(are you positive there is no pointer anywhere????)
(you can time a motor without a "0*" reference point but it is a PITA!!)
(you can time a motor off any cylinder TDC so look all around the damper for a pointer)

mark the dist body aligned with #1 plug wire terminal....
remove the cap and crank the motor till the rotor points at the mark on the body....
(you are now at #1 TDC)
scotchbrite/brake cleaner the damper from 12 oclock to 3 oclock to find the marks on the damper.....

post back if you found a pointer....
(it's a challenge to explain how to find a true "0" pointer location without all the motor build specifics)

until you know the motor is timed correct, it's "the cart in front of the horse" to solve the cooling balance problem,,,which can be a $0 cooling system fix cost versus $200 electric fan...

Last edited by red65mustang; 10-19-2008 at 09:38 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #22 (permalink)  
Old 10-30-2008, 09:45 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: TN
Posts: 424
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Gimp,

Did you ever resolve your overheating(?) problem? One of your posts said the cooking thermometer in the rad cap never got hot. This would mean that the water is not circulating through the system (thermostat still closed or water pump not pumping).

Did you ever get water flowing through the rad or verify the temp gauge was accurate?

You could also verify the intake temperature with a non-contact infrared thermometer.

John
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Brake lights switch oldsmo Electrical 4 10-19-2006 11:23 AM
what do i need for a 67 inline 6 mustang motor swap to a 93 302 cheefathereefa Engine 4 03-11-2006 12:47 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:37 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.