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Old 07-10-2010, 06:27 PM
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67 Mustang Quarter Panel Replacement

I bought a 67 Mustang coupe to build a daily driver. Mechanically it's pretty good, recent rebuild on the original 289. I'm nowhere near to actually replacing the quarters but maybe I'd better run this past you guys in case I've got it all wrong and need to rethink what I'm doing.



Here's the quarter panel on the drivers side I need to replace on my 67 Mustang coupe. Passenger side is about the same condition. This is exactly how I bought the car with the exception of the Ford Ranger wheels I put on it to replace the really small wheels that were on it, I guess in an attempt to lower the car. Thanks to our dry weather out here, no rust so far from the exposed bare metal.
If you look close you can see the rust holes in front of and back of the wheel well. I intend to strip it to bare metal a panel at a time and epoxy prime with SPI and then do the body work on top of that once I have the whole car primed so I can see it all one color.



I expect I'll have to repair the outer wheel well something like this.



The drivers side quarter panel I got from a rust free coupe here in New Mexico. I have both sides.
Looks like original paint and no repairs, I really lucked out on these.






Here's how they are cut at the sail panel. I'm thinking I want to cut the car to match with the exception of continuing the cut right above the wheel well straight forward to the door jamb as in the picture below.
I don't think I want to attempt to attach at the point of the forward junction of sail panel and quarter panel in the corner. The car shown below has the car side flanged and attached with screws as you can see. I want to butt weld mine.
The rest of the quarter will be attached at the spot welds at wheel well, door jamb, tail light panel, rocker panel and trunk drop off and into the trunk seams shown below.





Well thats the plan and I'm hoping it's a good one. What do you think? Am I overlooking anything? Will matching the cut at the sail panel be a nightmare to line up with no gap? I am in no hurry at all and will cut the car "long" and bring it down to match the cut in the quarter a little at a time till it matches.
I have a good mig w/argon mix and from reading here I will be using .23 gauge wire. I would say my welding skills are fair to good. I have a good 2 stage compressor 80 gal. tank. Air tools, chisel panel cutter, body saw, die grinder, cut off tool, etc.

From reading this board I've seen many different ways to do this like cutting an inch below the top body line and welding along the entire length of the panel. This sort of scares me as I don't want to warp the panel with my welding and I do have some damage on the car at the top of the panel next to the trunk but I think it could be repaired.

If it were yours how would you do it? Really could use some input here guys.

Morgan

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Old 07-13-2010, 02:20 PM
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I would use the butt welds as well. Its a much nicer repair in the end. Dont worry too much about warpage. Keep your heat only as high as needed, and do spots welds around the panel, jumping around from place to place. Also be careful grinding your welds too (lots of heat can be created there too). Otherwise looks like you are right on track.
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Old 07-13-2010, 06:39 PM
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Thanks for the reply millercustomfab I was worried that my cutting location was the wrong way to go. Deadbodyman already clued me in about getting the gaps right on the door and trunk lid first and cutting out most of the original panel center. It is tempting to cut an inch below the top bodyline as I think I could line up the new panel over the old to match the cut easier but I would like to replace as much of the quarter as possible if I can.

Thanks,

Morgan
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Old 07-14-2010, 11:53 AM
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FWIW when doing butt welds I always cut the original panel "long" as you suggested then lay my new piece on the car with the new panel overlapping the remaining lip of the old panel. With a quarter skin the next step would be to match up all the gaps, especially at the door and the trunk lid. Next, I use clecos fasteners to hold everything in place and then take a sharp metal scribe and scratch the old panel along the edge of the new panel where the two meet, now remove the clecos and the new panel and you have a perfect line to cut along that will match - as long as you take your time and cut it exactly..

Normally, I use an electric jig saw and/or an air powered jig saw depending on the location of the cut - The electric jig was easier to keep in a straight line, at least for me and the air powered jig was very manuverable for tight areas. Don't use a cutoff wheel because the heat will warp the panel and it will make a gap too large for proper butt welding.

Just take your time and get your new panel lined up perfectly before making any cuts and you will do just fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Morgan22
Thanks for the reply millercustomfab I was worried that my cutting location was the wrong way to go. Deadbodyman already clued me in about getting the gaps right on the door and trunk lid first and cutting out most of the original panel center. It is tempting to cut an inch below the top bodyline as I think I could line up the new panel over the old to match the cut easier but I would like to replace as much of the quarter as possible if I can.

Thanks,

Morgan

Last edited by SS66chevelle; 07-14-2010 at 12:05 PM.
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Old 07-14-2010, 07:43 PM
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Thanks SS66chevelle I can use all the tips and help I can get on this as I have read everything I can on doing this right but I have never actually done it before. I just know that I'm going to take my time and go slow so I don't screw it up.

thanks,

Morgan
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Old 07-15-2010, 08:36 AM
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Morgan, so have you decided where you are going to have your weld: above or below the body line?
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Old 07-15-2010, 09:55 PM
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I'm sticking with my original plan unless someone thats done this shows me an easier way.

Morgan
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Old 07-16-2010, 07:08 AM
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I need to replace my passenger quarter also and I was going to cut above the body line like shown in the mustang monthly article. I'm just wrapping up grinding down the welds on the cowl. I'm hesitating starting on the quarter. I also had to repair the rear outer wheelhouse and trunk drop off. The area is already painted and ready to get the repop skin fitted.
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Old 07-16-2010, 02:30 PM
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Nice work Grayle

Wish mine was that far along...

Thanks,

Morgan
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