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Please don't post the same thread twenty minutes apart, it won't get an answer any sooner.
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If your engine is good and warm and it does that check the accelerator pump arm that there is no play in it. Just barely touch the throttle and see if it does a instant shot of fuel. If there is any sloppy play it will do that. Best thing I do is loosen it up then tighten it very slowly till there is no play left. They recommend to have about .015 to .020 clearance between the pump arm and pump lever at WOT so go from there.
Eric |
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The best way to jet is with a percy metering plate. It allows the mixture to be adjusted by screw. The number of turns out is then converted to a jet size. You remove the plate and install the corresponding jets. Worth $50 bucks , instead of 10 jetting changes.
If it needs, keep it in the accerator pump cam area, right from the start at idle. Check timing , fuel, and anything qualifing as stupid. |
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Sounds like accelerator pump adjustment or different accelerator pump cam needed. Eric32 said it. whats the idle timing?
If you get the accel pump adjusted and still have a studder you can SOMETIMES turn the idle mixture screws and 1/4 turn out and see if that helps. Could also need larger shooter size on the accelerator pump. Is it the stock size in there now? |
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No i don't think the carb is to much for your engine. JMO
I have ran the 670 avenger on some pretty light engines and done fine. The last one was on my 68 chevelle it has a 355 in it works pretty good with alittle tuning. Cole |
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carb gasp
i agree that its a little on the big side.if the pump squirters are working as others rightly suggested do this.im assuming the timing is right as that is first in order as thet will affect throttle blade opening at idle.there are transition slots in the bores where the blades close.this lets idle mixture transition through the slot when the throttle first opens to allow fuel delivery until the boosters get signal.pull the carb as it sits,flip it over and see how much of the transition slots are covered by the blades at idle.with a carb that big on a small engine id want to see thirty thousanths un covered.if it has a wide blade opening and a large section of transition slot uncovered at idle crack the secondarys open a little so the primary blades will be closed more at idle.i think this is whats happening.if this isnt your problem this has to be done to get proper idle quality and of idle response.sorry so long response.hope this helps
billy |
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That 670 is not to big for what you have IMHO, if you have the correct size jets and the right tune on it along with a different pump size already stated. Timing correct. Make damn sure the float levels are correct also. It will do fine on your engine,JMO You get that thing dialed in it will be fine.
Cole |
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Quote:
Sounds like you need a larger squirter and possibly a larger pump cam first(from 25 to 28, or 28 to 31). This is assuming all adjustments are currently correct, like pump arm, throttle plate opening/transfer slot exposure, idle screws. |
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I had to jet my holley street avenger up from 65 to 67 on the main jets and I put 72 in rear. On your squirter size it should be a .031 size but check to maker sure. If you really look close with the choke plate open you can see a number stamped on it.
As suggested above check your transfer slot. I always crack open my secondary's more then what holley has it so I can have good air flow though all four barrels. I got one of the all aluminum 670 street avengers last year at this time and it was a piece of junk out of the box. It would lean out so bad my engine would back fire and would not stay running very good. I sent it back and got a replacement and it worked better but for some reason if you gave it a big shot of gas it would just give a big back fire here and there. I finally went to one of there zinc original type street avenger and it works much better for me. I am running a very mild 350 with only about 350-375 hp and cam is very small of what I have in it now and your engine should be fine with the street avenger. Double check your timing as stated above and if your running timed port on your vacuum advance try putting it to full manifold and readjust your idle and that will allow you to close it some. Eric |
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carb
A lot of people think BIGGER is better but that's the cause a good street engine on a good day volumetric efficiency is about 85% and a race engine is about 95-100% natural aspirated, so it really simple the equation to use is your max rpm x your engine size then divide that number by 3456 so example. 6000rpm x 350 engine size equals. 2100000 divided by 3456. Equals 607.63 CFM. So that tells use that fairly stock 350 use would use a 600CFM carb regardless which brand (but Holley is my choice) got a customer that built a small block 350 .06 over makes it a 360 and had a new out box 650CFM elde brock and really didn't do it for him so put a 650 Holley and he loves it but just opinion on that setup.if you run a 600Cfm should be fine
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