68 a body question. - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2009, 11:53 AM
LEE EYES's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: TBI experiment.
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Idaho
Age: 26
Posts: 93
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
68 a body question.

i have a 68 camino as my current project. i was wondering if a set of b body spindles out of a 95 caprice would fit. anyone? thanks.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2009, 01:43 PM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 53
Posts: 6,036
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 23
Thanked 432 Times in 363 Posts
why,because they have a 12'' rotor?the answear is yes but you have to use the upper A arm also ,I've done it.the artical was in my streetrodder magizine only one problem,if you want to keep the same lug pattern you'll have to get the rotors redrilled at a machine shop
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2009, 08:47 PM
LEE EYES's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: TBI experiment.
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Idaho
Age: 26
Posts: 93
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
because its a free disc brake conversion... lol. i wasnt aware of the bolt pattern difference though. may reconsider.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2009, 09:05 PM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 53
Posts: 6,036
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 23
Thanked 432 Times in 363 Posts
lugs

Why,its cheap enough and you'll learn something about oldschool hot rodding.any one can buy upgrades and pay someone to put them on,but its like saving your paper route money all year and buying that spiecial bike you'll never appreaciate anything more than when you work hard to get it.hotrodding isnt about money its about knowalage and learning and hard work and the shareing of that knowalage with others. If you need any help ,just ask ,thats why were here. Its why I'm here anyways
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2009, 09:45 PM
LEE EYES's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: TBI experiment.
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Idaho
Age: 26
Posts: 93
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
cool. very true. heres the deal, i just got a t5 out of an 89 camaro for this thing. it has the factory 307 and powerglide in it, and i am not having fun with 2 gears. i have everything exept the correct flywheel, driveshaft, and i still need to fab up the trans member. i figgured the t5 would hold up to a tired old 307... i dont know of any machine shops around here qualified to re-drill rotors. i may be able to snag the wheels off of the interceptor too.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2009, 10:51 PM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 53
Posts: 6,036
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 23
Thanked 432 Times in 363 Posts
other than starting the car the flywheel just holds the torkconverter in place it should fit and theres always adaptors for wheels but your local trade school should be able to redrill the lug holes the drive shaft may need shortining but thats not to hard either
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2009, 11:04 PM
prostreet6t9's Avatar
Differential/Driveline
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: oregon
Age: 51
Posts: 1,718
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 5
Thanked 40 Times in 37 Posts
Have a machine shop machine off the anchor stud off your spindle and you can your spindle. Buy a caliper monting bracket and the rest of the parts can be bought at your local parts store.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2009, 02:54 AM
fast68's Avatar
likes chevy trucks & boobies
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: IL
Posts: 1,970
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
the old 307 didnt have much for hp top end but they had decent low rpm torque, at least as much as the mid 80s 4bbl 305 engines and maybe even as much as the L69 HO 305 engines.

but if its that tired then maybe it doesnt anymore

my first chevy engine ever was when i was 16 and it was an original 1968 2bbl hi-torque truck 307 in a '68 pickup i got for a couple grand it was all original bone stock very reliable and old man owned, was my first chevy ever


good little engines,

i killed it and put in a fresh 305 that ran freaking strong,

then i scored a fresh TRW flat top 355 for 75 bones from a 72 chevy van and i ran 305 heads milled on it and wow it was great in that truck with the original 3.73 12 bolt rear and th350 i converted to

fun times fun times

i learned chevies REALLY quick and did all my own work within a year i was doing it all and never looked back and have owned billions of vehicles since

good luck
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2009, 08:48 AM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Wheelbase database Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 3,517
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 6
Thanked 145 Times in 132 Posts
First, the later B-body spindles use a different taper on the ball joint studs and tie rod end studs. You can physically bolt them up to the A-body ball joints, but the studs will not be seated properly and it WILL NOT BE SAFE.

This is the well-documented B-body spindle swap. It will not be "free". At a minimum you need the correct ball joints and tie rod ends. The lower ball joints must be machined to 2.010" diameter to fit the A-body lower control arms. You will also have a problem with getting enough adjustment in the upper control arm shims. At a minimum you need offset shafts for the upper arms, though most folks use the aftermarket upper arms from Hotchkis or Global West. Finally, if you want to keep your 5 x 4.75" bolt circle, you need to get rotors from a 1LE Camaro.

This subject comes up here about once every couple of months because someone has access to "free" B-body spindles. A search will provide more info.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2009, 12:25 PM
LEE EYES's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: TBI experiment.
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Idaho
Age: 26
Posts: 93
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
ok. thanks. good info.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2009, 05:43 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 53
Posts: 6,036
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 23
Thanked 432 Times in 363 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
First, the later B-body spindles use a different taper on the ball joint studs and tie rod end studs. You can physically bolt them up to the A-body ball joints, but the studs will not be seated properly and it WILL NOT BE SAFE.

This is the well-documented B-body spindle swap. It will not be "free". At a minimum you need the correct ball joints and tie rod ends. The lower ball joints must be machined to 2.010" diameter to fit the A-body lower control arms. You will also have a problem with getting enough adjustment in the upper control arm shims. At a minimum you need offset shafts for the upper arms, though most folks use the aftermarket upper arms from Hotchkis or Global West. Finally, if you want to keep your 5 x 4.75" bolt circle, you need to get rotors from a 1LE Camaro.

This subject comes up here about once every couple of months because someone has access to "free" B-body spindles. A search will provide more info.
hey Joe,When I did my conversion I used the upper control arm,ball joint and spindel as one unit (it was easier ) as for the lower ball joint why cant you just use the lower control arm too and just use all the parts from the doner car? I read this artical in mystreet rodder magizine and did it for the 12' rotors I always wonderd why they didnt tell you to use the lower control arm too,also whats the problem with redrilling the rotors? All my parts came off a 95 caprice but it looks a lot like my old chevy truck suspension. Do you forsee any problems with my set-up?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2009, 06:41 AM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Wheelbase database Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 3,517
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 6
Thanked 145 Times in 132 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
hey Joe,When I did my conversion I used the upper control arm,ball joint and spindel as one unit (it was easier ) as for the lower ball joint why cant you just use the lower control arm too and just use all the parts from the doner car? I read this artical in mystreet rodder magizine and did it for the 12' rotors I always wonderd why they didnt tell you to use the lower control arm too,also whats the problem with redrilling the rotors? All my parts came off a 95 caprice but it looks a lot like my old chevy truck suspension. Do you forsee any problems with my set-up?
I was not aware that the upper control arms from a B-body fit an A-body. If they do, that's good info. I don't know if the lowers fit at all. Keep in mind that besides the ball joints, you need to have the correct suspension geometry, spring pocket location, etc. The fact that you can bolt something together doesn't mean that it's correct.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2009, 07:10 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 53
Posts: 6,036
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 23
Thanked 432 Times in 363 Posts
hey joe,I just followed the directions but I hope theres no problems,I'll have to get someone to check it out since I know very little about this,Heres what I did ,subframed an 80ish camero onto my 48 plymouth,did the conversion,used the master from the donor car,an 89 camero rear with shoesand a2001 camero pwr rack,it all seams to work but I havent driven it yet I'll be taking it out the first week in may.I guess I better not go to fast on my way to the suspension shop
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2009, 08:25 AM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Wheelbase database Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 3,517
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 6
Thanked 145 Times in 132 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
hey joe,I just followed the directions but I hope theres no problems,I'll have to get someone to check it out since I know very little about this,Heres what I did ,subframed an 80ish camero onto my 48 plymouth,did the conversion,used the master from the donor car,an 89 camero rear with shoesand a2001 camero pwr rack,it all seams to work but I havent driven it yet I'll be taking it out the first week in may.I guess I better not go to fast on my way to the suspension shop
Well, the problem is you're talking about an F-body, which DOES use the same ball joints as the B-body cars. The original question was about the 64-72 A-body cars, which are completely different.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2009, 04:02 PM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 53
Posts: 6,036
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 23
Thanked 432 Times in 363 Posts
So I should be ok then? Well Lee I guess we both learned something here,I'll get my front end checked out by the pros before I go to far or ruin a new set of tires or worse yet get someone hurt,not a bad suggestion of anyone doing suspension or brake work.Thanks Joe
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
newbie body question daveid Body - Exterior 3 03-29-2009 09:14 PM
1099 tax,legal question on body work amanderson Body - Exterior 19 01-30-2009 07:11 AM
"Basics of Basics" Sectioning a Body MARTINSR Body - Exterior 7 11-24-2008 12:04 PM
body mount question.. APalusky General Rodding Tech 81 06-05-2007 05:58 PM
A Body mini tub question wally8 Suspension - Brakes - Steering 1 08-11-2004 05:09 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:02 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.