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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2013, 09:22 PM
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Take a pic

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2013, 10:02 PM
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Here's a few from the exterior, the panel behind, where the inner rocker attaches, continues thru to the lower fender mount, is trash.Click image for larger version

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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2013, 03:48 AM
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Looks like you got the jambs braced up. and you are cutting the old welds good...lets concentrate on the rocker and inner rocker right now,If you keep cutting and not replacing as you go you'll be on the other side and not have any guide for where the new metal goes..So get that rocker screwed on then the inner and come back to that lower piller and floor.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:01 PM
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Thanks DBM, yes I figured I'd start to reassemble one side first. I fabricated the cowl shoulder or whatever it's called, cut all that out and will be replacing everything except the pillar base. I will do some more pictures including replacing the rear seat brace without cutting the seat floor out. BTW, am I still in the correct forum on this? Or start another thread as I move to floor and quarters?
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:57 AM
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Thats up to you,but I think this is fine.
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:30 PM
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Before I start reassembly of the floor and rockers, should I use the old body bushings under the floor and seat brace for now, or put the new ones in now, they are poly type, and it's sitting on the frame with the rest of the old bushings. I don't want alignment issues later. Thx
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:06 AM
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tuff call.I'd have to say if you adjusted all the gaps and set it all up with the old ones then go ahead and put it all together with them in and replace them when once everything is screwd in and it all fits nice but you probably should replace all the body mounts before you start welding,did you put holes (punched or drilled) everywhere you need a plug weld? and make sure the mating surface's are clean?
Dont forget,it ALL has to be screwed back together and the door gaps checked before you weld anything,The common mistake is bracing the jambs without adjusting the gaps first,so if its braced with a sagging door it'll still have a sagging door when your done ,thats why you always get a good fit and good gaps all the way around before you start the job.If you forgot to gap the door it wont be to late to fix it if you put it all together with drill screws and check it..once it's welded it's final so be sure its right...
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2013, 05:06 PM
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Thanks alot, it had good gaps before removal. So, no welding till everything is hung first..got it! I haven't punched weld holes yet, it's clean, weld thru primer on all overlaps. thx again I will throw the old ones back in. Also, I will be putting new full quarters also, should I leave the rear rocker screwed until the quarter is fitted?

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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2013, 02:53 PM
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metal work

After reading all the up-coming metal projects that people are doing I started looking for a 24" metal brake myself. I want to make aluminum panels to fit in the rumble seat area to make it look more finished. I looked at Eastwood and Fox machines also I put a want add in our local sell and swap mag. I got all winter so no rush. New brakes are more expensive than I thought. sc
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Old 01-26-2013, 02:00 PM
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SC, For a decient 24" brake You can make a very simple one with a couple pieces of 1/4" angle iron sliped into a vice. you can bend the sheetmetal with a long piece of square tube or a hammer but the tube works much better...I still use this method for quick little small stuff.. I'll post some pics later on when I can find them...you can also make radiused bends or beads using it..its pretty handy....
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Old 01-28-2013, 12:04 PM
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SC, For a decient 24" brake You can make a very simple one with a couple pieces of 1/4" angle iron sliped into a vice. you can bend the sheetmetal with a long piece of square tube or a hammer but the tube works much better...I still use this method for quick little small stuff.. I'll post some pics later on when I can find them...you can also make radiused bends or beads using it..its pretty handy....
thanks for the tips and the pics would be helpful, I have a big bench vise. sc
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2013, 09:05 PM
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I have run into a small problem! I'm putting the floor back in, rockers are in, lined up nice at the quarter and inner wheelhouse bottom, nice in the pillar skirt, braces are in....it seems the left and right front floor mounts at the toeboards are about 1/2 inch too high? or my floor is too low? I removed the floor bushings thinking that might help, actually the bushings don't affect the floor height at all. I'm not sure if something moved, the mounts line up, I did cut out the kickpanel area to replace the innerds. Not sure what I'm missing, drivers door sags about 1/4 inch, yet is perfect when closed, haven't mounted the pass yet. I know it's tough without seeing it, any hints on what to line up first or work from? Thx
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:36 AM
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are the new braces the same as the old ones??? This is why you never,ever throw anything away until the job is done ,even a rotted old brace... how about the new and ols section of the floor ? hold the new parts next to the old ones and compare everything...could the body have dropped a little???
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:39 AM
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try taking it all back apart and mounting the floor section with the bushing in first ,maybe the sides floor section needs more trimming and just not allowing the floor to go down far enough ,cranking down on the bushing bolt should tell you, it should work..when it fits right just screw the floor where it sits now and disreguard the previous holes where it used to be,weld the holes up later..
As for the drivers door this is very common the cause would be the pins and bushings.the stricker is holding the door and all the weight of the door is on it...Open the door and grabbing from the bottom, lift it up ,if it moves the pins and bushings are wore out..having the striker in for the initial fit is good but to make the final fit the striker should be removed and the door adjusted to fit perfect without it , when you install the striker center it to the latch and use the striker to adjust the in and out (flush) fit only ..
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:31 PM
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Sorry DBM, I just got time to get back. I found my floor issue...when I cut out the panel by the firewall mount, the mount and firewall floor had tilted towards the rear,No problem, all I had to do was remove the screws in the panel and pull the mount forward.....glad you guys told me to use screws..whew!

No loose door hinges, they both are 1/2 inch low at the quarter?? I'll keep looking, I will leave everything screwed until I find it. I have all the floor, 4pc, rockers, new mounts in, BTW, I took out the poly and got factory ones, it sits fine, I've only welded the frt and rear of the floor because it's butted.

Any tips on bracing for a full trunk, wheel houses, quarters, and tail panel? I'm not sure which to do first, trunk or quarters? Do I need to remedy the door sag before moving on? Or wait till all done? They will be getting skinned, and may need adjusted anyway.

I really appreciate all the help....it's been a bear, but I'd do it again now that I know what's involved!
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