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69 Firebird Alternator smoking my VR

2K views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  off2wildblue 
#1 ·
I have the Mr. Gasket 5123 Alternator and it is an upgrade for my car. It is only 60 Amps but it is all I need to run my small amp and air conditioning I added to the car. The alternator squealed a few times and I thought it was a belt and it even smoked my belt. I got a new belt and again tightened it up. It ended up doing the same thing. Squealing like crazy until it warmed up a little but also heating up my belt then after it warmed it would be quiet and work fine or so I thought. My Voltage Regulator failed and I had 16 volts pumping out all the time. I realized it when my radio amp would turn off when I started the car. So I tried to increase the load and turned on the lights, Air Conditioning and radio and the volts dropped to 13.5. When that was all off it read 16 amps or more. So I got a new VR and installed it and the replacement started smoking instantly.

I figure my alternator is bad. I have put a 100 amp alternator in a VW Karman Ghia with no issues, shouldn't a 60 amp work here? I figure the alternator should regulate power output in some way and maybe mine just failed wide open. Can someone let me know? I am trying to get my restored car on the road and this is what is stopping me.

Thanks for the help!

SAM
 

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#3 ·
If you remember I had all those cam, main seal leaks and torque converter issues. Well, I replaced the cam with the Howards you recommended and put the stock type converter back in and while I was at it I fixed the main seal leak. Needless to say, I haven't got to drive it much, but yes I think it is the alternator too. I have another one ordered but I am just trying to figure out if there is anything else I can check. I did have the motor in and out two times since the last time I know it worked right. That being said, my radio was cutting out before those engine pulls, so I think the problem started before that. The amp would cut out during the surging and that was happening before I replaced the cam and everything else.

SAM
 
#4 ·
Could be a wire melted in the regulator harness.Hmmm
Have you installed all the grounds,checked the grounds? Looked for missing ground wires?

How does it run now,after the cam swap? Is the performance better/acceptable?


Linn
 
#5 ·
I went back and made sure the VR was grounded real well. I also read on another site to check the Voltage from the positive post to the ignition source on the VR and make sure it was less than a 1/2 percent and again from the negative battery post to the case of the VR to be again less than 1/2 percent. It was. Then I just reinstalled my old 36 amp regulator. It kept the GEN light on the dash lit and as I revved the motor the light stayed on but the Voltmeter increased and the VR did not smoke.

Therefore, I think it must be the alternator. I will know for sure when I get a new one delivered.

As far as the engine goes. It seems to be running really good. I need to figure out how to really set the timing. I did get the vacuum advance you suggested and installed the springs the way you said to try it. It runs 100% better. I think the timing and timing curve still needs adjusted and I may end up taking it to get dyno'd. If they help dial in the timing with the different springs and all, it would be worth it. I just think it has a little more power than it is still putting out.

Thanks to you and others here it is running better. It just isn't quite there yet!

Thanks again,

SAM
 
#7 ·
Your best bet would be to change over to a 100amp internally regulated unit. Easy to wire, eliminate the troublesome regulator and some wiring.
A 60amp unit in a vehicle with a/c may not be enough if you also have electric fans. The fact you said it squeals for a while after you start it and then it stop tells me it is working hard to try to put out more current than it is capable of to top the battery back off and run the rest of the electrical system.
a 10si or 12si 100 amp would most likely eliminate your problem and keep your battery healthy
 
#8 ·
I will keep the 100 amp in mind. However, when I run that alternator with everything powered my headlights don't dim and it is still charging at about 13.5 V. I will see how the new one works when it arrives. Any more issues and I will look at the 100 amp.

As far as an original alternator goes. I have one and that is the one I originally replaced, but thanks anyway.

I will update when I get my new alternator.

Thanks,

SAM
 
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