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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2013, 09:04 PM
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I know your son will like the Ranchero,I have a 68
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2013, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
OKay...I'm fairly confident that the Carb you have has vacuum secondaries...why should you have to close them...they should be closed until you step on the gas and the vacuum opens them...Do you have your vacuum lines hooked up right? Try removing the vacuum lines to the secondaries and see if it starts.

It's got to be at the Carb...I'd give that a try...don't just take the vacuum lines off...plug them up and the vacuum inlet to the Carb.

On a side note,,,this Summer when i was out visiting family, my nephew brought his Corvette to me because he said it didn't have any power...My first suggestion to him was that it was a 1980...none of them had power...that didn't go over well, so I opened the hood and he didn't even have a vacuum line to his secondaries...hooked the lines up and he thought he had a rocket ship...in your case, if the secondaries are open, you may be getting more air than fuel and it's like a vacuum leak that your dealing with...that can cause any motor to stall out.

Ray
I may have misspoke. I meant to say i closed the large valve above the secondaries. The secondaries function correctly. When i press the pedal they open and close. It was when i closed the upper valve that i got the said result.

I have messed with the 3 vacuum ports (brake vacuum in back of carb, and both kines in the front). I have switched the vacuum hose from the dist. to each of the front ports and plugged the brake vacuum port in the back. No change.

I have a buddy that said something about a sand filter thatscsuppoeed to be right behind the fuel inlet on the carb, but that just didnt sound right.

Fuel is getting all the way to the carb, it just doesnt seem to be getting any further. Should i pull the carb apart?
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by fy54957 View Post
I know your son will like the Ranchero,I have a 68
Very nice! Thats the exact paint scheme my son wants, just red and black instead of white. And he wants to put old school Cragars on it.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2013, 09:00 PM
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You've done everything but...I had a minor brain interruption for a minute and thought that you may have the fuel filter in backwards but, if that's the period correct carb it should be a screw in. I would take it apart, all else has been checked or replaced...is it a Holley or an Autolite?
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2013, 04:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jahoney View Post

Fuel is getting all the way to the carb, it just doesnt seem to be getting any further. Should i pull the carb apart?
Yes....like you were told in post #3
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2013, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by poncho62 View Post
Yes....like you were told in post #3
And are you getting an accelerator pump shot?
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
You've done everything but...I had a minor brain interruption for a minute and thought that you may have the fuel filter in backwards but, if that's the period correct carb it should be a screw in. I would take it apart, all else has been checked or replaced...is it a Holley or an Autolite?
The fuel filter is an inline filter between the fuel pump and carb. IT's not a screw in. And yes the filter is in the right direction.

It's an Edlebrock 1406 650cfm.

In taking it apart, with what issues I am having, what should I be looking for?
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:02 PM
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Yes....like you were told in post #3
And if you noticed in post #5, I said it was already rebuilt.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2013, 09:03 AM
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Well, It's been a while since I've rebuilt a Holley but, I'd look for low floats (sitting to low), debris in the bowels, needle and seat restricting fuel from debris or just stuck, plugged jets from debris in the bowels. I realize that in post 5 that the carb had been rebuilt but, for some reason your not getting fuel going through the carb so, in my opinion, it has to be in the Carb.

I sincerely hope you get it working.

Ray
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2013, 09:45 AM
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Is the 'sock' in the tank collapsed?
go under the car and double check the fuel fittings.
We had a 307 in an Omega in the neighborhood when I was a kid; my friend and I went through all kinds of these symptoms. Car ran bad; crud in fuel, dropped tank. checked fuel pump for bad diaphragm; ended up ripping diaphragm, replaced the pump, changed filters, checked lines, carb; everything in the engine bay. Fitting at the tank was a hair loose and sucking air in.

Re: your carb; just because you bought it and it was clean, doesnt necessarily mean it stayed clean on the ride home. I had a new edelbrock (reman) sealed in the box, that was full of dirt. It only takes one tiny piece, and if you had contaminated fuel, you could have munged it up after you corrected the original problem.
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Old 03-10-2013, 10:24 AM
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Is there a filter at the fuel inlet to the carb? It could be clogged. With rust you mentioned, the orifices in the carb (jets, etc) may be plugged. When the tank was pulled, did you check the fuel inlet for a "sock" type filter? Was it dirty? Was it replaced?

Since you say there is pressure (I am assuming between filter and carb) it seems most likely the problem is downstream of the gauge location. Is there fuel in the float bowls? Does the accelerator pump function (squirt fuel when throttle linkage is actuated)?

PatM
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Old 04-05-2013, 07:25 PM
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It is ALIVE!!

Thanks for all the help and suggestions! We got her running!! Turns out after all that, the linkage on the carb was not allowing the secondaries to open up. Once I resolved that issue, she fired up with a roar! You should have seen the look on my sons face (and mine, I'm sure, lol!)! Since there's only headers and no pipes or mufflers yet, when it fired up it shook the garage walls! My son was so excited and he has a renewed level of commitment to his car. He has stated he will NEVER get rid of it, lol!


SOOO...that being said, we're on to a new challenge. When we got the car, the brake res was completely bone dry and clean inside. There was obviously no pressure when pressing the brake pedal. We just filled the res with brake fluid and I went to bleed the brakes, however when I had my son pump the pedal no fluid ever came out of the bleeder valve. No matter how long I had him pump the brakes. Now, about half of the fluid I put in the front chamber of the res appeared to drain into the system but nothing ever to the bleeder valve. The pedal actually has pressure now but the drivers front will still spin freely with the brake held tight.
Is it possible that maybe the brake line is clogged or should i look for a different possibility?
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 04-05-2013, 09:48 PM
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Have you looked to see if the accelerator pump is working? Take the air cleaner off , open the choke and stroke the throttle. Fuel should squirt into the carb from two orifices towards the top of the carb. If that isn't happening the crap that was in the tank plugged the pump circuit up or the needle valve is stuck. You said the guy that rebuilt the carb had it running. was it on your car and if so what changed?

BB
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Old 04-06-2013, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by boothboy View Post
Have you looked to see if the accelerator pump is working? Take the air cleaner off , open the choke and stroke the throttle. Fuel should squirt into the carb from two orifices towards the top of the carb. If that isn't happening the crap that was in the tank plugged the pump circuit up or the needle valve is stuck. You said the guy that rebuilt the carb had it running. was it on your car and if so what changed?

BB
Thanks for the suggestion but see above post.

On to brakes now.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2013, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jahoney View Post
Thanks for all the help and suggestions! We got her running!! Turns out after all that, the linkage on the carb was not allowing the secondaries to open up. Once I resolved that issue, she fired up with a roar! You should have seen the look on my sons face (and mine, I'm sure, lol!)! Since there's only headers and no pipes or mufflers yet, when it fired up it shook the garage walls! My son was so excited and he has a renewed level of commitment to his car. He has stated he will NEVER get rid of it, lol!


SOOO...that being said, we're on to a new challenge. When we got the car, the brake res was completely bone dry and clean inside. There was obviously no pressure when pressing the brake pedal. We just filled the res with brake fluid and I went to bleed the brakes, however when I had my son pump the pedal no fluid ever came out of the bleeder valve. No matter how long I had him pump the brakes. Now, about half of the fluid I put in the front chamber of the res appeared to drain into the system but nothing ever to the bleeder valve. The pedal actually has pressure now but the drivers front will still spin freely with the brake held tight.
Is it possible that maybe the brake line is clogged or should i look for a different possibility?
First of all, how long had the car been sitting? If one of the reservoirs was completely dry there is a good possibility that you have a build up of rust or crud in the master cylinder. The best bet would be to take the master apart and see what your working with. If there is a bunch of junk in the master, you could have pushed it down the brake line, not allowing the fluid to do it's job...check the brakes completely, drums, shoes wheel cylinders brake hoses and lines. In fact start by pulling off the drums and do a visual inspection of all the brake components and replace any parts that are needed...depending on how long the car was sitting, the brake lines could be weak and have rust on the inside. Much depends on how far you want to go on the Ranchero but, when it comes to brakes, this is one area that I wouldn't be looking at trying to save to many nickles and have safety issues.

Ray
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