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Old 10-28-2007, 03:35 PM
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700r4 1-2 hard shift

I have a 67 nova with a new ZZ4 and a 700r4 built by one of the online sellers.
It is suppose to be an upgrade from the standard rebuilt unit. My problem is that the 1-2 shift is so hard it chrips the wheels every time I take off. The 1-2 shift is at 20mph 2-3 at 30mph and 3-4 at 40mph. I have adjusted the TV cable like most of the articles I have read say too. I thought the 1-2 accumulator may be broken but the piston and spring are ok. The plate under the spring seems to be dented where the spring comes in contact. The check ball above the plate is ok and the check ball in the accumulator cover hole is in place. Is the tv plunger suppose to only show 3 rings when at idle? I have seen several articles that suggest 6 rings should be showing at idle. I just want to soften the 1-2 shift a bit. How can I do this? Thanks

Don

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Old 10-28-2007, 09:41 PM
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which way is the 1-2 accum set up is the spring inside the housing and piston on bottom or spring against the seperator plate...what boost valve is in it.....,what band...what servo.....was the reverse drum cross hatch sanded....what shift kit is in it...you could try curing the band by putting it on blocks and holding it in 1st gear and prying in on the servo for no more than 3 secs with it at 20 mph this will apply the band and cure it. this will break it in and make it a little less grabby. this is if evrything else is ok....what does the 2-3 feel like....
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Old 10-28-2007, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by performabuilt2
you could try curing the band by putting it on blocks and holding it in 1st gear and prying in on the servo for no more than 3 secs with it at 20 mph
I install new drums and new bands and they don't need this archaic TransGo method of "curing" the band.
What are we curing it of?
Take a healthy band and attempt to burn it?

Last edited by jakeshoe; 10-29-2007 at 12:05 PM.
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Old 10-28-2007, 10:11 PM
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jake, I have seen this work before with a new band that was grabby...not saying i 100% agree with it but however i have seen it make the 1-2 a little less harsh and it doesnt burn the band i have seen a band come out after doing this and It wasnt burnt. oh and by the way please correct where you inserted "smoke" in the quote because that is not what i said TY in advance
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Old 10-28-2007, 11:17 PM
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make sure that some bright technician didnt put a set screw in the feed hole to the 1-2 accum
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Old 10-28-2007, 11:44 PM
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Or reuse a warped rev input drum and "refinish" it by sanding.
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Old 10-29-2007, 06:37 AM
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700r4 hard 1-2 shift

The spring is between the separator plate and piston. Here is a list of what was suppose to be done to the transmission. Also the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts are fine. The 1-2 seems delayed and is very harsh. I have a 750 vac holley with the Holley kickdown bracket 20-121 to correct the geometry of the linkage. The TV cable has been set correctly. I was thinking it may be the accumulator spring or valve body tapering that causes the harsh shift. So should I get a transkit and redo the valve body and separator plate?

PRECISION MASTER OVERHAUL KIT
√ SUPERIOR HIGH PERFORMANCE REPROGRAMMING SHIFT KIT
√ SUPER PUMP
√ DIRECT/REVERSE INPUT DRUM
√ TURBINE INPUT CLUTCH HOUSING
√ MODIFIED SUNSHELL DRIVE GEAR TO INCREASE REAR PLANETARY LUBRICATION
√ MODIFIED INPUT SUN GEAR TO INCREASE FORWARD PLANETARY LUBRICATION
√ UPDATED/MODIFIED ACCUMULATORS
√ HIGH PERFORMANCE BAND
√ UPDATED & MODIFIED GOVERNOR w/SPRING KIT & NYLON GEAR
√ RECALIBRATED VALVEBODY w/UPDATE TV VALVE ASSEMBLY
√ RECALIBRATED VALVE PLATE FOR SHIFT FIRMNESS
√ NEW HIGH FLOW FILTER
√ NEW LOW/REVERSE HEAVY DUTY SPRAG
√ NEW HEAVY DUTY FORWARD INPUT SPRAG
√ NEW HIGH PERFORMANCE ALUMINUM SERVO

Thanks for the help
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Old 10-29-2007, 07:51 AM
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you could put a lighter spring in the 1-2 accum if it has a stiff one in it from the kit. you could also play with the sprngs in the 1-2 accum valve that kit comes with different springs i belive HD and performance
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Old 10-29-2007, 09:40 AM
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Editing someones quote to say something entirely different is a bit cheesy. I expect it will not happen again.

Thanks
Vince
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Old 10-29-2007, 10:57 AM
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Out of curiosty, which company is it from?
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Old 10-29-2007, 11:38 AM
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hard shift

I hate when a thread turns into a pissing match. I called the tech line where I bought the tranny. They told me to remove the check ball (screw ? )they installed in the 1-2 accumulator housing and replace the spring with a OEM one. This should soften the shift. If that does not soften it enough then replace the corvette servo with an OEM and that should work. I am not slamming anyones work here. The tranny is just over built for my application,ie light car, moderate power (350HP). Guys thanks for you input. By the way the tech did say it may take a little time for the performance clutches and bands to wear in and be less harsh.

Don
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Old 10-29-2007, 12:03 PM
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There's no pissing match here.
I think performabuilt is giving bad advice about a "fix" for the band. However that is a difference of opinion.
If he chooses to do things that way, that's fine, but I wouldn't suggest it to anyone, and I doubt the trans builder would do so either.

A performance built 700-R4 or 4L60E should have a new drum and wide band. There isn't any need to "cure" the parts. Some builders like to use sandpaper to rough up a drum or steel plate, others don't.
A fine sandpaper used to deglaze a drum is OK IMO but also unnecessary.

The shifts shouldn't change much, but they may change slightly with a few miles.

The 700-r4 doesn't need a blocked 1-2 accumulator, the band and servo are of sufficient size that it will grab good.

Definitely reconfigure the accumulator as the builder suggests.

If it is still too harsh,
I would keep the Corvette servo, but decrease the size of the 2nd gear feed hole in the seperator plate.

You might want to check and be sure the servo piston still has the cushion spring on it also and isn't shimmed solid with washers.

Last edited by jakeshoe; 10-29-2007 at 05:02 PM.
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Old 10-29-2007, 04:06 PM
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jake, I personally have never done this and I dont intend to but I have seen it work when a band is new it can be kinda grabby for some people by speeding the brake in process it can make it a little less harsh. I was just trying to give him all the options out there and let him make his own decision.with a new drum and band this shouldnt have to be done I personally crosshatch my drums in my personal builds to hold a little oil. I persoanlly dont mind the grabby 1-2 exspecially when its a 10.41 pass
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Old 10-29-2007, 04:40 PM
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Why would you recommend something you haven't and don't intend to do?

When you do this your are glazing (slightly burning) the band/drum. Possibly scorching the band.

If it were you, talking to another trans guy, who can replace the band and drum if he fouls it up, that is one thing, but to recommend it to the average enthusiast who gets to buy an expensive rebuild isn't a good idea IMO.

This guy did the right thing,
he contacted the original builder, who from the sounds of it set him straight or at least on the right path.

I always recommend a person contact the vendor as they should know the product better than anyone else.

I highly doubt the builder of this trans would recommend or approve of this type of "repair" on their unit.
If it were my unit, all warranties would be off if it was done.

Shift feel is subjective.
What one customer or builder likes may not be what another likes.

Some customers in the hotrod crowd believe a trans should shift harshly all the time. Most builders are aware this isn't the case for reliability, other builders don't care and give the customer what they want.
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Old 10-29-2007, 04:58 PM
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I am not going to hijack this thread anymore If you would like to talk thoery any time PM me and I will debate with you lol we all have different ways of doing things. I have seen it work I have also seen a drum and a band from one that this has been done to and it was not glazed or burned I have had my days of testing and seing what works and doesnt work this is how I learned and being in the shop with the pops when I was a kid. I agree it is not the prefered method of fixing the problem but its an ideal without having to go into the trans.

OP I am curious about the "screw" you are talking about in the accum. I have seen 2 pistons in the accum with no spring, a set screw in the feed hole and conduit for a spring lol did they block the accumulator?

Jake may want to edit the part where you said to reconfigure the "servo" like the shop said I think you meant accumulator.

yes the OP did the right thing and called his builder
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