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Old 08-14-2011, 08:17 AM
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700r4 ?

I just put a 700r4 in my chevy powered trike, stock 70 350 2 barrel carb. Made
bracket for cable and attachment point on carb linkage per. picts. on forum,
1 1/8" down from throttle shaft and 1/2" behind it . The trans was from a 4.3
that I got at the junkyard.My trike weighs 1600 lbs and it has a 82 mustang rear end approx. 3.25 to 1 with 235/75 tires, my problem,it will not shift from 1st untill about 35mph. Can this be adjusted with the cable? I have tried but
it does not seem to change. When it gets rolling over 50 and goes into overdrive its OK, something about cruising at highway speeds at 1500 R.P.M.
makes you smile. Most of my local driving is under 50 so would like to get my 1/2/into3rd at lower speed, not trying to shred tires just riding around town.
Any ideas will be appreciated . Thank You Jim

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Old 08-16-2011, 10:49 PM
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The TV cable adjustment should not be used to set shift speed. It can be adjusted a click or 2 looser/tighter, which will cause slightly earlier/softer or later/firmer shifts.
You will probably need a Governor Recalibration kit. The vehicle the Trans came from may have had 3.73-4.10 gears which will throw off the Valvebody/Gov's calibration when using 3.27 gears.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-20248/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TCI-326500/
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Old 08-18-2011, 07:09 PM
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SSsedan has offered you great advise-you should not be attempting to adjust shift points by way of the TV cable. The fact that you said it goes into 4th at around 50MPH tells me that you are within the proper adjustment range but guessing is not a good thing.

One thing that concerns me is that you have a home-made TV cable bracket. Have you measured from the center line of the pivot shaft of the carb to the center line of the TV cable stud? That is the MOST critical measurement as it controls the total amount of cable pull in relation to throttle arm movement. If this measurement is off, then everything is off and it will never work the way it is supposed to. Here is a link to a site that talks about how to set them up:
http://www.cpttransmission.com/tech_tvcable.htm
And this site really spells it out for you: http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com...o/700R4p1.html

The BEST way I've found to adjust the TV cables is cumbersome, but get's it right every time. Hook up a transmission gauge to the pressure port on the drivers side just above the shift shaft lever. Start the engine, let it get to normal operating temperature-DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS PROCESS WITH A COLD TRANSMISSION. let it idle and take a pressure reading. Record that reading. Now, with the engine still idling, remove the TV cable from it's attachment point on the carb/throttle body. Now take a pressure reading. Record that reading. The First reading (with cable attached) needs to be HIGHER by approximately 2-3 lbs, than the 2nd reading. Please note it should not be any more than 2-3 lbs. higher though. Adjust cable until you are within 2-3 lbs. higher than the reading you got with the cable disconnected. Now LEAVE It alone!

If your shift points are not where you want them to be-you will need to work with the governor, and/or change out the springs within the valvebody on the shift valves. There are kits sold that will help you modify the governor. If you want higher/later FULL THROTTLE shifts, you will have to remove the governor and grind weight off the 2 weight tabs. Go slow with the grinding as if you remove too much weight at one time, you will have to purchase a new governor and start over or risk blowing up your engine. Yes, this will be a trial and error process that you are NOT LIKELY to get right the first time. If you want to adjust the part throttle shifts, the springs have the biggest effect on those. If a later mid-throttle shift is sought, sometimes something as simple as removing the lighter of the 2 springs will achieve the desired result. Other times, it may take removing both springs entirely to make the mid throttle shift points later. Here is the B&M recalibration kit: http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Tra...-TH-400-TH-350

Please post back your results as your information may be helpful to someone else searching for the same/similar information.
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Old 08-18-2011, 07:14 PM
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Another thing that concerns me is the really late 1-2 shift. Are you sure you have 2nd gear? Could it be going from 1st straight to 3rd? Is your shifter set up so that you can manually shift it from 1st into 2nd, or from 3rd back into 2nd to check for a downshift? It does not make sense that it is shifting so late on the 1-2, and then from 3rd into 4th at 50MPH.. The 2-4 servo is responsible for 2nd and it might be stuck, or otherwise not functioning.. If the band were bad, or damaged, you would not have 4th so if you have no 2nd, I don't think it is a band issue. Maybe the 1-2 shift valve is sticking.

Please post back and let us know if you can manually select 2nd, or if it is going from 1st to 3rd.
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Old 08-18-2011, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gyrocopter1
I just put a 700r4 in my chevy powered trike, stock 70 350 2 barrel carb. Made
bracket for cable and attachment point on carb linkage per. picts. on forum,
1 1/8" down from throttle shaft and 1/2" behind it . The trans was from a 4.3
that I got at the junkyard.My trike weighs 1600 lbs and it has a 82 mustang rear end approx. 3.25 to 1 with 235/75 tires, my problem,it will not shift from 1st untill about 35mph. Can this be adjusted with the cable? I have tried but
it does not seem to change. When it gets rolling over 50 and goes into overdrive its OK, something about cruising at highway speeds at 1500 R.P.M.
makes you smile. Most of my local driving is under 50 so would like to get my 1/2/into3rd at lower speed, not trying to shred tires just riding around town.
Any ideas will be appreciated . Thank You Jim

with what your describing, what i see is that your on the failsafe ball and the cable still doesnt have enough tension. so, the trans is shifting late and if im right a bit firm as well.
yes? no?
how did you set the cable? is it tight @ WOT?
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Old 08-19-2011, 11:24 AM
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700r4 solutions

Thank you guys for the intrest in solving my problem. I got the B+M weight set from Summit. Hard part was getting cover off the governor, intimidated at first.
instructions said to lower shift points install a heavier weight #1 in kit, it seemed lighter than the stock weight to me,sure enough now 1/2 is 3000rpm. pulled
governor back out and I added an extra weight to the one that I installed, took a steel washer ground the sides down same width as weight and tack welded it to the kit weight, back together,test drive time. It seems to be shifting pretty much
the way I want it to but will fine tune it now that I know how. I think that the same results would have been achieved with the stock weight by adding weight as I did.
for earlier shift or grinding weight off for later shifts, as the kit cost $49.00 that
could be in my gas tank ha,ha. I am going to check the trans pressure as you
described in the post . Thank you for the help, Jim
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